Comments on: Peach Tree Disease Management Diary http://www.gardenhelp.org/trees/peach-tree-disease-management-diary/ A Free Service of Garden Mentors Sat, 06 Sep 2008 00:06:34 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.6 By: Brian http://www.gardenhelp.org/trees/peach-tree-disease-management-diary/#comment-1037 Brian Mon, 07 Jul 2008 20:56:00 +0000 http://www.gardenhelp.org/trees/peach-tree-disease-management-diary/#comment-1037 Rhaglund; Thanks for the pointers on trying to determine why the lack of any fruit. Maybe I do need someone expert enough to be able to tell between an ornamental and a "regular" peach tree. Also need to be more informed in regard to how peach pollination is accomplished and what central Texas conditions could affect that. Thanks again Brian Rhaglund;
Thanks for the pointers on trying to determine why the lack of any fruit. Maybe I do need someone expert enough to be able to tell between an ornamental and a “regular” peach tree. Also need to be more informed in regard to how peach pollination is accomplished and what central Texas conditions could affect that.

Thanks again
Brian

]]> By: rhaglund http://www.gardenhelp.org/trees/peach-tree-disease-management-diary/#comment-1035 rhaglund Mon, 07 Jul 2008 16:02:35 +0000 http://www.gardenhelp.org/trees/peach-tree-disease-management-diary/#comment-1035 Brian, There are several reasons that the peach may not be producing fruit. Since it is blooming, I don't know that any specific pruning with necessarily help. Is there any chance these are actually ornamental fruit trees? There are many cherry trees that bloom beautifully but never form fruit. Perhaps this is the case with these trees? Other things that might be happening...absence of pollenators to help set the fruit...storms blowing out blooms so fruit cannot be set...poor tree cultivar/it doesn't set fruit well... I suggest your friend try to bring out a specialist in your area to evaluate the tree itself since so many things could be at issue. Good luck & thanks for writing in! Brian,

There are several reasons that the peach may not be producing fruit. Since it is blooming, I don’t know that any specific pruning with necessarily help. Is there any chance these are actually ornamental fruit trees? There are many cherry trees that bloom beautifully but never form fruit. Perhaps this is the case with these trees?

Other things that might be happening…absence of pollenators to help set the fruit…storms blowing out blooms so fruit cannot be set…poor tree cultivar/it doesn’t set fruit well…

I suggest your friend try to bring out a specialist in your area to evaluate the tree itself since so many things could be at issue.

Good luck & thanks for writing in!

]]> By: Brian http://www.gardenhelp.org/trees/peach-tree-disease-management-diary/#comment-1034 Brian Sun, 06 Jul 2008 21:08:44 +0000 http://www.gardenhelp.org/trees/peach-tree-disease-management-diary/#comment-1034 To whomever, A friend of mine has two peach trees in her back yard. They are about 20 ft apart and bloom profusely each spring but have yet to produce any fruit. One tree is about 12 years old....the other is six. No sign of leaf curl or seepage of sap. Could heavy pruning along with a specific fertilizer help? Open to and would appreciate any and all advice. Thanks, Brian To whomever,
A friend of mine has two peach trees in her back yard. They are about 20 ft apart and bloom profusely each spring but have yet to produce any fruit. One tree is about 12 years old….the other is six. No sign of leaf curl or seepage of sap. Could heavy pruning along with a specific fertilizer help? Open to and would appreciate any and all advice.

Thanks,
Brian

]]> By: rhaglund http://www.gardenhelp.org/trees/peach-tree-disease-management-diary/#comment-998 rhaglund Fri, 27 Jun 2008 14:47:58 +0000 http://www.gardenhelp.org/trees/peach-tree-disease-management-diary/#comment-998 Tanya, I prefer to do my apple pruning in winter here in Seattle. It may be different where you are. That being said, it should be safe to prune out any dead, crossing or rubbing branches now. I find it much easier (on me and the tree) to do my major pruning in winter/early spring when the tree is dormant. Also, I recommend getting a hand-in-hand lesson from a professional so you know how and where to make proper cuts. And, using the right tools for each task can also really help. Cutting improperly (for instance "to shape" or "to top" a tree) can lead to worse problems down the road. Removing too much from a tree in any one growing season can also lead to problems. And, removing the wrong kind of branches can lead to problems and may even reduce fruiting very significantly. Reading more at plantamnest.org might help out with some basic pruning info. Also, check out the ISA website (http://www.isa-arbor.com/home.aspx) to find a certified arborist near you for help with your trees. As always, thanks for writing in. I hope all of your efforts pay off! Tanya, I prefer to do my apple pruning in winter here in Seattle. It may be different where you are. That being said, it should be safe to prune out any dead, crossing or rubbing branches now. I find it much easier (on me and the tree) to do my major pruning in winter/early spring when the tree is dormant. Also, I recommend getting a hand-in-hand lesson from a professional so you know how and where to make proper cuts. And, using the right tools for each task can also really help. Cutting improperly (for instance “to shape” or “to top” a tree) can lead to worse problems down the road. Removing too much from a tree in any one growing season can also lead to problems. And, removing the wrong kind of branches can lead to problems and may even reduce fruiting very significantly.

Reading more at plantamnest.org might help out with some basic pruning info. Also, check out the ISA website (http://www.isa-arbor.com/home.aspx) to find a certified arborist near you for help with your trees.

As always, thanks for writing in. I hope all of your efforts pay off!

]]> By: Tanya http://www.gardenhelp.org/trees/peach-tree-disease-management-diary/#comment-997 Tanya Fri, 27 Jun 2008 13:30:56 +0000 http://www.gardenhelp.org/trees/peach-tree-disease-management-diary/#comment-997 Well, I did pick off all the peach tree curl leaves. Both trees are doing well. I will be removing the forsythia as much as possible. Your comments regarding the roots I believe to be accurate. We'll see. I did notice one tree starting to ooze a sticky stuff. I am thinking apple trees next. However, we have a few really old apple trees that came with our property. They have not been taken care of for fruit harvest, but I would like to tackle one of them. Is it too late to cut it right back and try to domesticate it? Thanks, Tanya Well, I did pick off all the peach tree curl leaves. Both trees are doing well. I will be removing the forsythia as much as possible. Your comments regarding the roots I believe to be accurate.

We’ll see. I did notice one tree starting to ooze a sticky stuff. I am thinking apple trees next.

However, we have a few really old apple trees that came with our property. They have not been taken care of for fruit harvest, but I would like to tackle one of them. Is it too late to cut it right back and try to domesticate it?
Thanks,
Tanya

]]> By: rhaglund http://www.gardenhelp.org/trees/peach-tree-disease-management-diary/#comment-929 rhaglund Tue, 10 Jun 2008 21:17:39 +0000 http://www.gardenhelp.org/trees/peach-tree-disease-management-diary/#comment-929 Thanks Lulu. Definitely keep in touch! Thanks Lulu. Definitely keep in touch!

]]> By: lulu kelly http://www.gardenhelp.org/trees/peach-tree-disease-management-diary/#comment-927 lulu kelly Tue, 10 Jun 2008 03:38:28 +0000 http://www.gardenhelp.org/trees/peach-tree-disease-management-diary/#comment-927 Nope I don't have documentation (I wish had taken pictures) just years of being in the field. yes some people do wait to see where die back occurs. We have short springs so this may be why we have a harder time with hydration then other places and things suffer here. For us heading back works, but that's why it's best to check with your local nursery and professionals. I'll be moving up to Port townsend shortly and reading your blog. I'm sure it will keep me learning what's appropriate for the area. Thanks I believe in learning too!!! Thanks if I can be of any help let me know. LuLu Nope I don’t have documentation (I wish had taken pictures) just years of being in the field. yes some people do wait to see where die back occurs.
We have short springs so this may be why we have a harder time with hydration then other places and things suffer here. For us heading back works, but that’s why it’s best to check with your local nursery and professionals.
I’ll be moving up to Port townsend shortly and reading your blog. I’m sure it will keep me learning what’s appropriate for the area. Thanks I believe in learning too!!! Thanks if I can be of any help let me know.
LuLu

]]> By: rhaglund http://www.gardenhelp.org/trees/peach-tree-disease-management-diary/#comment-920 rhaglund Sat, 07 Jun 2008 16:27:12 +0000 http://www.gardenhelp.org/trees/peach-tree-disease-management-diary/#comment-920 Lulu, Thanks for writing in. I'll have to check out the nastursium trials you mentioned. Its very interesting. In our neck of the woods that would probably bring the problem of aphid infestations, but I bet there are other "catching" plants out there. I also find it interesting that you're advocating cutting back the top growth on a tree to match root cut back. In my studies, I have learned that this is no longer appropriate transplant behavior. Instead, I have come to understand that it is more appropriate to allow the top growth to adjust on its own, allowing the tree to determine which portions it will release on transplant. Then, after the tree has rooted in and released any upper growth it cannot support, making more appropriate corrective pruning cuts. If you have reading references that support your asseration, please share them. Lifelong learning is important to me. Again, thanks! Lulu,

Thanks for writing in. I’ll have to check out the nastursium trials you mentioned. Its very interesting. In our neck of the woods that would probably bring the problem of aphid infestations, but I bet there are other “catching” plants out there.

I also find it interesting that you’re advocating cutting back the top growth on a tree to match root cut back. In my studies, I have learned that this is no longer appropriate transplant behavior. Instead, I have come to understand that it is more appropriate to allow the top growth to adjust on its own, allowing the tree to determine which portions it will release on transplant. Then, after the tree has rooted in and released any upper growth it cannot support, making more appropriate corrective pruning cuts. If you have reading references that support your asseration, please share them. Lifelong learning is important to me.

Again, thanks!

]]> By: lulu kelly http://www.gardenhelp.org/trees/peach-tree-disease-management-diary/#comment-919 lulu kelly Sat, 07 Jun 2008 05:34:17 +0000 http://www.gardenhelp.org/trees/peach-tree-disease-management-diary/#comment-919 Robin I live in the central valley of California. The University of Washington and Dave Wilson Nursery are working on some varieties of Peaches that are not as prone to Peach Leaf Curl. I'm a twenty year veteran of the nursery business and I'm so sorry to hear about your experience with the snob at the Nursery. I use to teach my staff about making new gardeners educated. I love Fruit trees it's my speciality. Remember it's important to get good air circulation around fruit trees. The other important part is to buy rootstock that work in your area. Here we use different rootstocks then you would use. When you buy a package bareroot tree 60 percent of the roots have been remove to get in the package. You need to really cut the tree back to match that when you plant it. Thats why I perfer a nursery to get my bareroot. One of the other organic things I have read is that Austrailia is trying cover crops like nasturisums to catch spores popping from the soils. The jury is still out on this though. Good luck Lulu Bug Trapper Department of Agriculture. Robin
I live in the central valley of California. The University of Washington and Dave Wilson Nursery are working on some varieties of Peaches that are not as prone to Peach Leaf Curl. I’m a twenty year veteran of the nursery business and I’m so sorry to hear about your experience with the snob at the Nursery. I use to teach my staff about making new gardeners educated.
I love Fruit trees it’s my speciality. Remember it’s important to get good air circulation around fruit trees. The other important part is to buy rootstock that work in your area. Here we use different rootstocks then you would use. When you buy a package bareroot tree 60 percent of the roots have been remove to get in the package. You need to really cut the tree back to match that when you plant it. Thats why I perfer a nursery to get my bareroot.
One of the other organic things I have read is that Austrailia is trying cover crops like nasturisums to catch spores popping from the soils. The jury is still out on this though.
Good luck Lulu
Bug Trapper Department of Agriculture.

]]> By: rhaglund http://www.gardenhelp.org/trees/peach-tree-disease-management-diary/#comment-913 rhaglund Wed, 04 Jun 2008 23:10:27 +0000 http://www.gardenhelp.org/trees/peach-tree-disease-management-diary/#comment-913 Forsythia can get quite crazy with new growth emerging far from the original plant. In my own garden, I cut mine to the ground each year just after flowering and watch it sprout right back up. I even chainsawed most of it out one year, and it still came back. Of course, I didn't bother to remove the roots, so I get what I get, right? It certainly could be impacting the peach if its shoots are entertwining with the peach roots. They could be crowding each other for soil nutrients and for water. But, it is unlikely IMHO that the forsythia is causing any sort of peach leaf curl. Thanks for writing in. Please let me know if I can help further. Forsythia can get quite crazy with new growth emerging far from the original plant. In my own garden, I cut mine to the ground each year just after flowering and watch it sprout right back up. I even chainsawed most of it out one year, and it still came back. Of course, I didn’t bother to remove the roots, so I get what I get, right?

It certainly could be impacting the peach if its shoots are entertwining with the peach roots. They could be crowding each other for soil nutrients and for water. But, it is unlikely IMHO that the forsythia is causing any sort of peach leaf curl.

Thanks for writing in. Please let me know if I can help further.

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