Posts Tagged ‘soil microbia’

Garden Coach on Removing Grass with Little Effort by Sheet Mulching

Monday, October 26th, 2009

When I meet with a new garden coaching client, I always come armed with information on caring for lawns lawns in sustainable ways. However, these days I find myself pulling that information out of my client packets and exchanging it for information on how to remove lawns. Reducing lawns in favor of lower maintenance, more sustainable options has been on the increase — significantly so in 2009. Whether they’re looking for groundcover alternatives, new beds or just lower maintenance, sheet mulching makes getting there easy.

Thyme is a lovely, dog-friendly lawn alternative

Thyme is a lovely, dog-friendly lawn alternative

Fall is my favorite time to begin lawn removal programs. Why? Well, rain is abundant in the Pacific Northwest. And, we tend to spend less time lounging in the garden during the rainy season, so tearing up our lawn in fall doesn’t impact our day-to-day fun. Plus, at this time, soil microbial activity hasn’t come to a halt. So, by choosing to sheet mulch our lawns this time of year, we are able to opt for a passive removal method. We don’t break out backs with a lot of digging. We don’t run a fuel-hungry sod cutter or roto-tiller. And, we don’t have to find ways to get rid of the lawn we would otherwise dig out. Instead, the lawn nutrients are “tilled” into the soil by soil microbia, which convert this nitrogen rich organic material into forms ready for your spring plantings.

It may take a while for the garden life to complete lawn removal, but the life in the soil does the work for us during the months we’re unlikely to be using our garden. And, leaves are abundant! So, rather than putting them in yard waste or seeing them clog storm drains, collect them up and put them to use in removing your lawn and building beautiful, nutrient-rich new planting beds in time for spring.

Read more about how to remove your lawn and recycle its nutrient value into your garden here: (more…)

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Garden Coach on Getting the Best Dirt on Your Garden Soil for Planting Success

Tuesday, September 1st, 2009

Often readers write in with general questions about garden soil. Readers may comment that they have “wonderful” soil because it is “dark”,  but nothing will grow in it. Or they may complain that it is so dark it gets too hot for plants. Others will talk about “fixing” their earth for a specific planting by adding in a bag of potting soil to the spot where the new plantings were to go only to find out later that this technique didn’t quite work. Others won’t have much to say about their soil but will ask what amendments to add to their garden soil so their plants will do better. So, what’s the real dirt on garden soil and what can gardeners do to create healthy rooting zones for their plants?

Cabbages Planted in March into Tested, Amended Soil

Cabbages Planted in March into Tested, Amended Soil

Well, first off, you can’t tell what’s really going on with your soil simply by looking at it. Just because it appears dark doesn’t mean it is rich and nutritious. As well, just because it appears moist, it may not be. And, amending soil only in the place a plant will be placed will not make for a good long term solution.

The best way to know what’s going on with your soil is to have it tested. Yes, you can purchase a small home soil kit to determine your soil’s pH (how acidic or alkaline your soil is) and what your basic nutrient values are (NPK). However, if you take a sample and send it to a soil lab you will be able to determine much more information, and many labs will give you solutions for adjusting your soil based on what is currently in the soil as well as what you plan to grow in the space. If you do your test at home, you may determine that you have excessive Nitrogen (N) and sufficient Potassium (K), but did you know that Nitrogen in excess can suppress your Potassium? A lab test will look at your true levels and consider these aspects of soil science as well as just what’s in there.

Additionally, soil tests can provide you with details on material percentages in your soil. Not only can you determine how much mineral v. organic material is in the soil, but also which mineral material (sand, silt, clay) is in the soil and in what percentage. Knowing this detail will help you understand how nutrients are held or lost in the soil (and the same for water).

Some labs will also provide details on heavy metal soil levels. Remember, lead and arsenic can exist in the soil. Even if you aren’t growing food crops, which can take up these elements and put them in your zucchini, you will still be exposed to whatever levels exist in your garden — touching them each time you weed or play on the lawn with your kids and dog and tracking them into your home each time you stroll in from the garden path.

Same Cabbages Ready for Harvest in July

Same Cabbages Ready for Harvest in July

And, some labs will also provide details on your soil microbial levels. Healthy soil is inhabited by a balance of insects, worms, bacteria, fungi and more that live together in harmony. When their balance is off, so too is soil and plant health “off”. For instance, in the presence of high phosphorous (P) mycorrhizal fungi may be suppressed. These fungi are critical to plant root health and function.

So, to get the real dirt on your soil? Have it tested.

And, a brief note on those who would prepare soil by digging a hole, adding a bag of potting soil and then planting. Please don’t. Essentially, this method can result in creating a pot or container-like soil environment within the existing soil. Your potting soil may likely hold too much water, which has a distaste for passing between layers of dissimilar material. If this happens, your new plants roots may become water logged. Or, in other situations, the roots may hesitate to pass out of the nutrient-high potting soil environment into the surrounding garden soil. This can cause circling, kinked and girdling roots — none of which lead to a healthy plant. Better to test your overall soil, adjust as recommended and plant into a soil that is blended throughout.

And, just a reminder to test your soil by digging in before watering. Just because soil looks moist or dry doesn’t mean it really is. Watering by the calender or by visual clues isn’t enough. Dig in to test for moisture needs and avoid wasting water by over-watering or stressing plant roots by under-watering.

Now to find the right soil lab for your needs. Here are a few to consider (and note that each of these offers other types of testing such as crop nutrient detailing and tissue sampling): (more…)

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