Posts Tagged ‘seeding’

Don’t Stop the Seedin’ – a Gardener’s Midsummer Theme Song

Sunday, July 11th, 2010
Don't Stop Your Seedin'

Don't Stop Your Seedin'

It’s about now, mid-July,  when I get a little worn out by all the repetitive gardening chores. Sometimes the thought of putting out another round of lettuce, pinching basil,  harvesting another bowl of snow peas or seeding beans for the 50-billionth time just makes me a little bit grumpy. Keep in mind, I’ve been seeding food crops since back in February. I’ve also been potting them up, planting them out, watering, fertilizing, harvesting, sharing, donating, eating and so forth. It’s not that I don’t love my garden, but sometimes I have to make up a little song in my head to keep myself motivated.

In case you’re a fellow weary gardener looking for something (or someone) to laugh at, try singing this one to the tune of Journey’s Don’t Stop Believing…really, it makes those repetitive gardening chores just a little less tedious — or at least it does for me. (Need some background music as you sing along; try playing this Midi version.)

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Growing Tomatoes Successfully Despite Cold Temperatures and Rain

Wednesday, June 16th, 2010

I’m still grumbling about the cold, wet late spring we’re having in Seattle. I like some sunshine, and I like some heat. And so does my garden.

Under 50F in June Does Not a Good Tomato Make

Under 45F Does Not a Good Tomato Make

Sure, rain out of the sky is better than rain out of the tap. It’s likely more pure, and it’s certainly less expensive. With all the rain we’ve had so far this spring, I haven’t turned on my irrigation once. That’s a bonus. But in return, I’m having to tent crops like garlic to protect it from too much rain and keep it from rotting. As well, I’ve had to come up with creative solutions to get my heat-loving crops into the ground and growing despite the cold.

My first line of defense against unpredictable Seattle spring and summer weather is to grow tomatoes designed for short, cool growing seasons. And, I grow them from seed (or at the very least buy starts from local growers who produce starts designed for this area). A few of my favorite tomatoes for our region are Oregon Springs, Stupice, Siberia and Gold Nugget. Plus, this year I’m trying out another – Peron. These have proven to hold up against the cold, grow strongly and withstand fungal diseases like blight.

My next trick is to do several successions of seedings and potting. This way, if an early crop fails, I have others coming up behind them. Even in a short growing season, this can make a difference. (more…)

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Garden Coach on Planning the Fall Edible Garden in Mid-Summer

Saturday, August 8th, 2009

So often clients contact me around this time of year to ask if they can still seed edibles. Their busy schedules — whether due to work or kids or vacations or visiting family — get in the way and delay their time in the garden. I get it. Most aren’t like me. I’m in my garden at least a few times daily during summer, giving me the opportunity to monitor everything very closely. That doesn’t mean I get everything done, but I sure do get a handle on how quickly a weed can grow in a day! For my clients, however, their forays into the garden may happen once every couple days. So, they’re often struggling to know just how open a seeding window really remains.

Closed Hoop House Keeps Brassicas Growing in Cool Weather

Closed Hoop House Keeps Brassicas Growing in Cool Weather

Whether you have time to seed more edibles really depends on where you live and what the edible requires to grow and set edible fruit (or root or leaves). Here in Seattle in mid-August, the window for seeding summer crops like cucumber and sweet corn has passed for the year. However, there is still a small window open to seed fall crops like cauliflower, chard, beets, broccoli and lettuce. And, actually, for some of these items, there are many weeks remaining. Too, if your edible gardening spaces include a greenhouse or a hoop house or even a cold frame, that seeding window may stay open even a bit longer. Too, crops like garlic don’t even get planted until October.

The message is: if you’re in the Seattle area and you plan to grow fall edibles from seed (or even from start), don’t delay much longer. If you’ll be rotating out summer crops to make room for fall crops to harvest into early November, monitor those summer crops carefully, removing spent plants right away to deter disease and to make way to put in those fall kales, broccoli and turnips. If you don’t, that window will slam shut even as summer sun continues to warm warm our days and ripen our summer harvest. Of course, if you miss the chance to seed, local nurseries are stocking up fall edible starts right now. Beginning from starts may give you a little more wiggle room as the season wanes, but it is still critical the plants have time to get in the ground and begin to grow strong roots before the soil cools for the coming fall and winter.

Need help? Get in touch to schedule a vegetable garden consultation session now!

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A Few Random Thoughts from a Busy Garden Coach as we Approach Summer Solstice

Sunday, June 14th, 2009

I haven’t been writing nearly as much as I do during the colder, dormant season. It’s much more fun, and profitable, for me to spend time in the garden rather than writing about the garden. Yet, as I’m looking down the barrel of summer solstice, I want to share a few quick gardening tips that may prove helpful. Solstice marks the time when days following, sadly, start to become shorter. Plants are greatly in tune with this, and your work, based on timing,  can make a huge difference in your gardening successes (and failures):

  • Pinching perennials: Not only will deadheading help extend your flowering season for most perennials, but if you tip back (aka a pinch-to-a-node) late flowering types (Mums, especially) with alternating cuts, you can create bushier plants with more blooms that are less likely to flop over when they get top-heavy with blossoms. But, stop tipping around solstice or you may not get any blooms at all.  If you’re dealing with plants that you don’t want to bloom, like basil, keep on pinchin’!
  • Pruning: Don’t prune plants that bloomed in late winter/early spring or you risk cutting off next winter’s blooms. If you haven’t sheared your hedges, which is best done in late winter/early spring, you’re running out of time. If you shear too late, you risk looking at choppy cuts all winter or forcing soft growth that gets killed in early frosts.
  • Big Harvest in June for the Foodbank

    Big Harvest in June for the Foodbank

    Seeding and Planting: You still have time to seed many hot season crops, but again, your time is running out. Get those last rounds of tomatoes, basil, peppers, squashes and beans in the ground now to extend your harvest period. Plus, now’s the time to start seeding those fall/winter crops to get them ready to set out for winter harvesting — think kale, broccoli, chard and cabbage.

  • Harvest, Eat, Preserve: As your crops roll in, stay on top of harvesting even if that means you end up making sauerkraut in June or giving away lettuce to the foodbank. By doing this, you’ll make room to rotate in new crops and reduce the likelihood of inviting pests and disease and self-seeded bolting crops into the garden by leaving past-their-prime edibles in the soil.

And finally, enjoy these long days. Soon enough we’ll all be wrapped in polar fleece, snuggling near a warm fire, desperately seeking a bloom somewhere to discuss in the many posts we have time to write up during winter. For me, for now, I’m off to put out more mammoth sunflowers, zinnia, basil and late season tomatoes to enjoy into the many remaining months of summer.

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