Posts Tagged ‘Pruning’

A Few Random Thoughts from a Busy Garden Coach as we Approach Summer Solstice

Sunday, June 14th, 2009

I haven’t been writing nearly as much as I do during the colder, dormant season. It’s much more fun, and profitable, for me to spend time in the garden rather than writing about the garden. Yet, as I’m looking down the barrel of summer solstice, I want to share a few quick gardening tips that may prove helpful. Solstice marks the time when days following, sadly, start to become shorter. Plants are greatly in tune with this, and your work, based on timing,  can make a huge difference in your gardening successes (and failures):

  • Pinching perennials: Not only will deadheading help extend your flowering season for most perennials, but if you tip back (aka a pinch-to-a-node) late flowering types (Mums, especially) with alternating cuts, you can create bushier plants with more blooms that are less likely to flop over when they get top-heavy with blossoms. But, stop tipping around solstice or you may not get any blooms at all.  If you’re dealing with plants that you don’t want to bloom, like basil, keep on pinchin’!
  • Pruning: Don’t prune plants that bloomed in late winter/early spring or you risk cutting off next winter’s blooms. If you haven’t sheared your hedges, which is best done in late winter/early spring, you’re running out of time. If you shear too late, you risk looking at choppy cuts all winter or forcing soft growth that gets killed in early frosts.
  • Big Harvest in June for the Foodbank

    Big Harvest in June for the Foodbank

    Seeding and Planting: You still have time to seed many hot season crops, but again, your time is running out. Get those last rounds of tomatoes, basil, peppers, squashes and beans in the ground now to extend your harvest period. Plus, now’s the time to start seeding those fall/winter crops to get them ready to set out for winter harvesting — think kale, broccoli, chard and cabbage.

  • Harvest, Eat, Preserve: As your crops roll in, stay on top of harvesting even if that means you end up making sauerkraut in June or giving away lettuce to the foodbank. By doing this, you’ll make room to rotate in new crops and reduce the likelihood of inviting pests and disease and self-seeded bolting crops into the garden by leaving past-their-prime edibles in the soil.

And finally, enjoy these long days. Soon enough we’ll all be wrapped in polar fleece, snuggling near a warm fire, desperately seeking a bloom somewhere to discuss in the many posts we have time to write up during winter. For me, for now, I’m off to put out more mammoth sunflowers, zinnia, basil and late season tomatoes to enjoy into the many remaining months of summer.

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Why Not to Hire a Tree Trimmer Who Wears Spikes

Thursday, May 21st, 2009

Yesterday I met with a new client in Seattle. As I walked up to his home, I immediately noticed three Cherry trees in the front parking strip had been topped recently. However, it wasn’t until I was reviewing the back garden that I saw the worst of the tree trimming horrors his garden had sustained. Not only had he hired a crew that was willing to top his trees, but they climbed a cypress in his backyard wearing climbing spikes, which damaged the bark and cambium layer of the tree terribly. When I saw the spiked trunk, at first I thought someone had hit the base of the tree with a car because so much of the lower bark had been torn off. I was wrong; it was the tree workers who did it.

So, why was this dismaying?

First, the living part of the tree is directly below the protective bark layer. This “cambium” layer is where the plant transports nutrients up and down the stem; the bark protects this area. As well, plants don’t heal. So every spike insertion becomes a site for pest and disease. The ripped and torn bark and holes in the cambium and older interior layers will never heal.

Second, the cuts that were made to top the cherries and to “shape” the other trees were made at random points on the stems creating a “shape” to the tree. This may sound just fine. But it isn’t. When you understand that trees do not heal and when you learn that plants have specific points in their growth systems where they can protect themselves from the cuts we make, you better understand how and where to make pruning cuts. Clearly, these trimmers don’t know this. Or, worse, they do know and they just don’t care. Or even worse than that, maybe they do know what they’re doing and they hope that their sloppy work will stimulate new growth (through topping the cherries) and cause decline (through wearing spikes in the cypress) thereby creating more work calls from the client to them in years to come.

Third, really, spike holes and topped trees are just plain ugly.

This Tree was Topped Twice!

This Tree was Topped Twice!

When hiring a tree trimming service, be sure to find out what certifications the service holds. Ideally, hire an ISA-certified, licensed arborist. If the service offers to top your trees, that’s your signal to run away immediately. If they climb using anything other than ropes, saddles and ladders, don’t let them near your tree. Those spikes will cause damage from which your tree may never recover. Just think: you’d be paying to have your trees — your investment in plants — destroyed rather than cared for.

As this client learned the hard way, just because a service is cheap and immediately available doesn’t mean they’re good. In his situation, they sold him on price and convenience saying he’d save a lot if he let them do the work that day because they “had a truck in the neighborhood”.  In the long run, this kind of work saves a homeowner nothing and quite often costs them much more down the road.

Looking for more information on proper pruning and where to find a certified arborist in your area? Find more information here:

  • Plant Amnesty: This organization was formed to teach people to stop topping trees and offers loads of information as well as a referal service for finding trained arborists.
  • ISA: The International Society of Arboriculture provides information on trees, tree care and certification of arborists around the world. This is your go-to spot to find an arborist anywhere on planet earth.
  • Garden Mentors: Interested in learning hands-on about how trees grow and how to prune them yourself? Or, just want to learn how trees should be pruned so you better understand how to hire and manage a tree trimming service? Get in touch for a hands-on garden coaching session now.
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How Much Time Does a Garden Coach Spend in Her Garden Each Week

Wednesday, May 20th, 2009

Yesterday I was helping a regular client prune several woody shrubs away from a deck she’ll be renovating this summer. The shrub work was long past due, but together we made great progress. As we were working she asked, “Robin, how many hours a week do you spend working in your garden?”

Stone & Filled Beds Make for Easy Summer Care

Stone & Filled Beds Make for Easy Summer Care

Hmmm…that was like getting the job interview question you’re completely unprepared for. Fortunately, I wasn’t interviewing for a job as the question gave me pause. How much time do I spend working in my own garden in a week?

I answered my client honestly. I barely have time and energy left this time of year to get out in my own garden. My hands are exhausted from pruning and weeding and typing and writing all day, so my own weeds flourish and my shrubs thrive despite the work I know I should devote to them.

Fortunately, I’ve invested almost a decade developing my garden, which has a lot of stone work. And, stones don’t require a lot of maintenance. And, my beds are quite full from years of planting, dividing and spreading perennials. Some I regret and now classify in the weed department (Alstromeria & cat mint rules this regret.) Still, I would like to have garden perfection with zero weeds, perfectly coiffed shrubs and pest-free cabbages.  But, time is at a premium. And when free evenings bring lightening storms and hail such as we had last night, I miss out on my rare opportunities to weed away the evening sunlight.

So, to answer the question. I find myself puttering through the garden with coffee each morning most days of the year for a good 30 minutes or so. I visit my potted garden and greenhouse for about 30 minutes a day in spring and summer (at least). I visit my veggie beds daily to harvest (if not to weed and plant and water) for about 20 minutes a day. And, when I have an actual day to really get out there. Well, those are the days I can put in a good 8-10 hours renovating big spaces and making progress pruning those shrubs, pulling those weeds, squashing those slugs and dressing up the finished areas with a nutrious layer of composted mulch. And, of course, I try to wind down sunny evenings sitting in the garden with a glass of wine or iced tea — and odds are, I’ll pull another weed while I’m at it. So shall we say I spend a good hour or two, on an average day, working in the garden (and sometimes quite a bit more.)

Now that I’ve wrapped up this thought, I’m going to escape into my own garden for a rare two hour, mid-day weed-a-thon. Wish me luck!

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When to Prune a Strawberry Tree?

Thursday, February 12th, 2009

Kathy from Browns Point, WA asks:

When can I trim my stawberry trees, to grow wider?”

Arbutus unedo Blooming in November

Arbutus unedo Blooming in November

By Strawberry Tree, I’m going to assume you’re referring to Arbutus unedo. Several plants have the common name Straweberry Bush or Strawberry Tree, so we’ll go with the Arbutus for this answer.

The Arbutus unedo is a cousin of our Pacific Madrone Tree (Arbutus menziesii), and it is a beautiful shrub or tree offering reddish peeling bark, evergreen leaves, and a confusing habit of blooming and ripening fruit all at the same time. This makes pruning a little tricky.

Since A. unedo blooms and forms beautiful ripe fruits in early autumn, it’s tough to time pruning. First, pruning in late fall, right after blooming and fruiting, can cause the plant to put on a lot of new growth just as we go into the cold season, which can cause it to experience dieback on areas of growth that didn’t have time in the season to harden off for winter. Second, if we prune it in Spring, as we head into the growth surge time, which would encourage new growth and perhaps meet your desire to “widen” the plant, you risk removing the fruit that is forming from last year’s blooms. And, if you wait until late spring/summer, you again risk removing fruit as well as the flowers forming to bloom in fall. So, there’s no ideal time here.

I’m not sure what you’re hoping to achieve in terms of widening the plant. I hope you don’t intend to top it/shear it. That would ruin it’s fantastic natural form and beauty. Instead, it should be pruned like a tree. Start by getting in to clear out the dead, crossing/rubbing branches. Then selectively make cuts to encourage new growth. Since I can’t see the plant and evaluate the circumstances, I hesitate to try to provide anything more than that.  When you cut is going to be based your needs. If you want it to put on a lot of new growth, probably late winter/early spring is your best bet, but you do run the risk of having a low fruiting/flowering season in the fall.

If you would like to set up an appointment to review this plant together, please get in touch. And, thanks for writing in!

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When and How to Prune a Pear to Reduce Suckering

Friday, February 6th, 2009

Sarah from Shoreline, WA writes:

“My pear tree (unknown variety, pears are yellow) suckers like mad. I pruned last year in Feb. Should I be pruning in late summer instead? Thanks, Sarah

Sarah, it’s difficult for me to answer your question without seeing the tree to understand its care history. But, here are some thoughts for anyone considering when to prune a pear tree:

  • Improper pruning, random cuts, and over-pruning are the usual culprits I see that cause heavy suckering.
  • That being said, some trees will sucker as a reaction to any type of pruning (or just because its the nature of the tree regardless of cutting). You remove a branch and the plant redirects energy toward other areas and produces more branches.
  • If you know how to prune properly, and your tree is in good shape, doing some pruning in summer, rather than winter (or in addition to winter) can help reduce heavy reaction growth. By mid-summer plant growth is slowing for the season, and the tree is less likely to put on a lot of new growth. Where in spring, that’s when it goes through a growth surge — whether pruned or not.
  • It is critical, whatever time of year you prune, that you make proper cuts and never top your tree.
  • Do keep in mind that if you prune late in the season, your tree can still put on new growth, even as it is slowing for the season. If it puts on succulent new growth late in the season and doesn’t have time to harden this growth off before a freeze, you can end up with freeze damage, particularly on the new growth.

Thanks for writing in Sarah. I hope this helps.

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Proper Pruning Reveals Specimen Japanese Maple

Tuesday, February 3rd, 2009

One of my favorite garden maintenance chores is pruning dwarf Japanese Maples. I enjoy it so much that I’m considering rewriting the prior sentence so it doesn’t read “chore”. To me, working on one of these trees is like working on a sculpture. When I begin, they tend to be tangles messes of ratty old leaves, dead old branches and hacked tips from inexperienced pruners.

After Clean Up

After Clean Up

When I finish my spa treatment, they are spectacular twisting forms through which light and air and birds travel freely. After I lift their skirts, passersby no longer grumble about wayward branches. And with a lightened hemline, the beautiful legs and twisting forms are revealed. Later, in spring, when buds open and delicate lacy leaves adorn the branches, breezes will flow easily through this bonsai form. Leaves will flutter adding movement and interest in the garden. Birds will fly through branches. And, when autumn arrives and the trees colorful leaves abscise from branches, they will be more inclined to fall to the floor below the tree rather than tangling in masses of accumulated dead branches. Once on the floor, these delicate leaves form a protective duff-like layer of organic material, which helps protect the tree’s roots in winter, adds nutrients to the soil, and deters weeds. And, when the tree is bare the following winter, it should require minimal pruning to maintain its fantastic new look.

Before Clean Up

Before Clean Up

When I approach a Japanese Maple, I follow a few basic rules of thumb. First, I take out the dead material — leaves, dead branches, stump cuts. Second, I repair bad cuts made in the past, and believe me, they’re always there. An especially consistent error I correct is shearing cuts. Many will try to “shape” their trees to the edge of a path and ruin branches in the process. Understanding how and where to make a cut is critical to these, and any other, tree or woody shrub.  Third, I consider crossing and rubbing branches, and I remove some of these. (Dwarf Japanese Maples sort of break the crossing & rubbing rules sometimes as part of their beauty lies in their twisty, fused-branch form.) By now, I usually have very little left to take off the tree. I may take out a few limbs that drag the ground or stick out in pathways. But, I keep my work minimal. I am often stepping away from the tree, admiring its form and considering the consequences of each potential cut. If I remove too much, I can damage the tree significantly. If I remove the wrong branch, I can’t reattach it. So, I work slowly and with care, making circles under and through the tree as I methodically make my way toward a finished tree.

Need help with your Japanese Maple? Please get in touch to schedule a garden coaching session to learn the in’s and out’s of pruning your own tree. Or, get in touch to request an appointment to have me clean your tree for you. Sometimes getting a neglected tree back into shape and then having a coaching session to learn to care for it going foward works best. Everyone is unique — just like their trees!

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Be Patient with Your Gardener (Gardening) in Winter

Monday, January 26th, 2009

It’s 9pm. The news just gave me a typical mid-winter forcast of “maybe snow; maybe not” for tomorrow. The newscaster said, “As the radar shows, we’ll have light snow starting by 7am in the metro area. But it will turn to rain by mid-day.”

The radar actually showed it snowing until at least 6pm, but who am I to judge? I’m no meteorologist. I’m just a garden coach.

If it’s frozen and snowy tomorrow, I won’t be going to prune my client’s specimen japanese maple. Why? Well, for one thing, the roads may be a mess. For another, if it’s freezing out, I don’t want to risk breaking brittle, frozen branches. So, maybe I miss a job tomorrow. Sure, I’ve warned my client that I may or may not show up, but it’s frustrating for both of us. I need the work; she wants the tree cleaned up. Still, I’m very fortunate, she’s patient and understanding.

So, if you’re anxious to get something done (or have something done) in the garden this winter, just take a deep breath when mother nature doesn’t cooperate. Make a pot of tea and make the best of it. Soon enough you’ll be pulling weeds and digging up pathways and training vines on trellises like mad. Winter can only last so long, right?

More on when to prune (or not prune) here.

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Midwinter Garden Clean Up

Monday, January 19th, 2009

Finally Seattle is getting a weather break. The sun is out, and the sogginess is, well, a bit drier for the moment. It feels like Spring! This combo gives your itchy garden fingers the perfect opportunity to get a little work done before wintery weather returns…and you know it will. This is only January for goodness sakes!

Miscanthus Weighted with Snow

Miscanthus Weighted with Snow

Here’s a quick list of garden work items for a midwinter Spring break:

  • Cut back spent perennials: Cala Lilies turned to mush? Asian lily stems, mum stalks, gaura, erigeron, hosta, and peonies bent, browned and lurking? Cut them back now. Likely, you’ll see tight green growth below all the brown…well, except in the case of the lilies which are hiding deep in the soil. For a true gardener, this work is especially rewarding. I’m always finding treasures tucked into the beds; things that I’d forgotten since they were in their splendor months ago last spring/summer.
  • Cut back spent grasses: Miscanthus, switch grass and other true seasonal grasses are about done for the season. Yes, you can leave them up to catch the sunlight. But, if yours look anything like mine did after the snow, the garden will look better with them trimmed and tidy. Plus, if you cut them now, you won’t need to worry about damaging new growth that will start emerging, possibly, as early as next month.
  • Look for blooms: Last week I posted a few blooming finds in my garden for Bloom Day. Just a few days later while working in the garden I found even more Hellebores popping up their heads, a few primula blooming and lots of buds on my Azara to watch over the next few weeks; it will be blooming soon. Plus, as I crawed around on my hands & knees, fragrant Sarcococca perfumed the garden.
  • Cut out Crossing, rubbing, damaged, dead & broken stems and suckers: Deciduous plants are dormant. Seeing “bad lines” and damage is easiest when they’re in this state. Even if I’m working with a plant that has already set flowering buds, I may decided to remove a bad stem right now. Once it flowers and leafs out, I may have a hard time finding that problem spot — or I may forget about it entirely.
  • Weeds: It never ends, right? Creeping grasses are everywhere. Shotweed is popping up. Dandelion, which could make a fantastic winter salad green, is rooting in. But the soil is loose and moist. Everything is easy to pull, so get them out now!
  • Mulch and top dress: Yes you can! If you clean out a bed, yes you can mulch. While beds are dormant, adding mulch is a great chore to get done.
  • Examine Seedlings: Lots of little seedlings are popping up, and not all of them are weeds. If you know what to look for, you might find some fantastic babies to move around the garden. I found a huge crop of snow-in-a-mist yesterday…almost enough to give in and call it a weed!

There are plenty of other chores to work on, but that’s a great start. Avoid the temptation to rip out things that you think might be dead. Odds are many will come back to life next spring. True, I found a couple of plants that I’m certain are dead (my Eryssium-turned-tumbleweed, for instance). But, if you’re not sure, I encourage you to encourage the plant to keep on keepin’ on. Spring is months away. Right now, we’re just getting a tease!

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Seattle Storm Plant Victims

Tuesday, January 13th, 2009

My fresh-from-the-shop pruning shears coupled with actual Seattle sunshine had me chomping at the bit to get out and do some garden clean up.

Yuletide Camellia with Hole

Yuletide Camellia with Hole

Sadly, once I got out there, I got a bummer of a reminder to be careful what I wish for — my just-starting-to-bloom Yuletide Camellia had sustained an awful break!

Honestly, I don’t think that the break happened during the storms. I tend to watch my winter bloomers pretty carefully this time of year. Any bloom in Seattle’s dreary winter is welcome. And, it wasn’t until today that I saw this horrible break. Could it be that the plant was weakened during the storm and split because of the warming? Maybe something crash landed on the branch and took it down — a crow fight might be just enough. Regardless, my freshly renovated shears’ first task was to finish removing the broken branches in the middle of an otherwise fantastic evergreen shrub.

Remaining Torn Trunk

Remaining Torn Trunk

Now, my Camellia has a big hole in the center and bad tear on a main trunk. I’m hesitant to remove the torn trunk because it is a major part of the plant. Yes, the plant will probably have difficulty walling off this tear, which will leave it open to invasion by pests and disease. But, if I remove the branch, I will take away much of its photosynthesizing power. Fortunately, I can take some time to mull this one over. As the plant fills in this spring, I may remove the rest of the damaged center. I might not. As any gardener will tell you, gardening is a set of choices. But once you cut something off, you can’t put it back on again.

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“Should I Prune Now or Wait?”

Wednesday, November 26th, 2008

When to prune is one of the top 10 questions I get. (Hmmm…maybe I should do a top ten list for the end of the year. Anyone want to read that? Anyone want to hazard putting out a question to see if it makes the top ten?) Okay, back on topic — when should you prune.

Fragrant Winter Blooming Dawn Viburnum

Fragrant Winter Blooming Dawn Viburnum

Honestly, there’s no perfect, single answer to this question. The plant’s habit, the environment, your tolerance for what things look like, and your time availability can all impact the answer. What I can tell you are a few basic rules about pruning timing:

  • When does your plant flower? If your plant flowers in early winter, then it will have all its flowers set by summer. So, don’t prune it in fall or you’ll miss the flowers. Best to prune it right after it finishes blooming. Or, take a few cuttings while the plant is blooming in mid-winter to enjoy indoors as a reminder that spring is on the way!
  • Is your plant frozen? You can prune in the middle of winter when plants are frozen, but I usually wait. Branches hold water through the winter and can become very fragile and brittle in very cold weather. It’s easy to make a bad break during these times.
  • Shearing hedges: I’ve said it so many times before that I won’t go into much here, but shearing is best left until late winter/early spring just before the plant really pops into new growth. If you cut it in fall or early winter, you’ll be looking at ugly cuts all winter long. And, if the plant responds to your cuts with new growth in winter, you may have some dead spots when that delicate new growth gets zapped in a freeze.
  • When do I prune my apple/cherry/plum/peach/raspberries and other fruiting plants? I get this question often, and there is more than one answer to when to prune fruiting plants. I like to clean out raspberries in late winter and many fruit trees as well. But, disease infestations, specific cultivars and more can play into the answer. Best to work with a coach to work on your specifics!
  • Cleaning out the dead: This is something you can do just about any time. If your plant has lots of dead branches, is filled with dead leaves or has lots of suckers coming up from the ground, get out there whenever you can and work on cleaning things up. Keep in mind the rule about freezing weather, but this is a great winter chore when plants have lost their leaves and their form and structure is beautifully visible.
  • I have the time to do something now not in February: Time is something that comes at a premium for all of us. If you find yourself with a couple of hours to focus on the garden, then go for it. Just keep the rules above in mind and keep yourself bundled up, warm and dry.

If I managed to leave out a specific pruning question of yours, please let me know. Also, keep in mind these are just some general recommendations. What to prune and when to prune can be much more complicated and may require a site visit to evaulate.

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