Posts Tagged ‘Mulch’

Thumbs Up to Raking!

Tuesday, November 3rd, 2009

I’ve been pretty impressed with the number of rakes I’ve seen around the neighborhood this year. On a typical 30 minute dog walk this weekend, I passed several homeowners doing fall clean up.

Crepe Myrtle Leaves Soon to Join the Mulch Pile

Crepe Myrtle Leaves Soon to Join the Mulch Pile

And, not one of them was using a petrol-hungry, pollution spewing blower to clean up fallen leaves. Instead, families and neighbors were raking piles together. Kids were jumping into the piles. And, in a few cases, people were even mounding nutrient-rich fallen leaves on planting beds to protect and enhance beds over the winter. Sure, this might make for some tasty slug habitat, but it’s a simple way to bring a little permaculture to our own gardens.

Seeing all these healthy, happy families reminded me to encourage you to pull out the rake instead of the pollution machine for most — if not all — of your autumn leaves. (more…)

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Garden Coach on Removing Grass with Little Effort by Sheet Mulching

Monday, October 26th, 2009

When I meet with a new garden coaching client, I always come armed with information on caring for lawns lawns in sustainable ways. However, these days I find myself pulling that information out of my client packets and exchanging it for information on how to remove lawns. Reducing lawns in favor of lower maintenance, more sustainable options has been on the increase — significantly so in 2009. Whether they’re looking for groundcover alternatives, new beds or just lower maintenance, sheet mulching makes getting there easy.

Thyme is a lovely, dog-friendly lawn alternative

Thyme is a lovely, dog-friendly lawn alternative

Fall is my favorite time to begin lawn removal programs. Why? Well, rain is abundant in the Pacific Northwest. And, we tend to spend less time lounging in the garden during the rainy season, so tearing up our lawn in fall doesn’t impact our day-to-day fun. Plus, at this time, soil microbial activity hasn’t come to a halt. So, by choosing to sheet mulch our lawns this time of year, we are able to opt for a passive removal method. We don’t break out backs with a lot of digging. We don’t run a fuel-hungry sod cutter or roto-tiller. And, we don’t have to find ways to get rid of the lawn we would otherwise dig out. Instead, the lawn nutrients are “tilled” into the soil by soil microbia, which convert this nitrogen rich organic material into forms ready for your spring plantings.

It may take a while for the garden life to complete lawn removal, but the life in the soil does the work for us during the months we’re unlikely to be using our garden. And, leaves are abundant! So, rather than putting them in yard waste or seeing them clog storm drains, collect them up and put them to use in removing your lawn and building beautiful, nutrient-rich new planting beds in time for spring.

Read more about how to remove your lawn and recycle its nutrient value into your garden here: (more…)

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Garden Coach Answers Reader Question About Amending Soil

Thursday, April 30th, 2009

Moe from Orlando, FL writes:

“I have tomatoes and peppers planted- but the soil is the dark gray sandy type. It gets sooo hot- you can’t even step on it barefoot. What can I use to mulch my plants that will absorb the extra heat, and not take their water?”

Early Girl Ready to Harvest Mid-July 2008

Early Girl Ready to Harvest Mid-July 2008

Moe, thanks for writing in with your question. You’ve described your soil texture as sandy, which means nutrients and water likely pass through it very rapidly. So, adding a composted organic mulch material will likely help you hold water and nutrients in the soil a little better. Generally, mulched materials are also dark, so they may also absorb heat as well.

Mulch materials should be at least somewhat mixed with the existing soil before planting. This creates a layer of both the existing “native” soil and your organic matter. If you don’t have a mixed layer between the two, you can end up with a situation called “interfacing”. Water has a tendency to not pass readily from one medium (aka a top layer of mulch) into the next layer of soil (aka your dark sandy stuff). By having a mixture of both between, this will help the water pass through. If you do end up with a soil interface, you may have nice moist mulch on top and dried out sandy soil where the plant roots live.

Before you try to start changing your soil, consider ordering a soil test to understand more about your soil’s nutrient information, pH, potential heavy metal content and more. Once you understand this, you will be better armed to make the best choices to adjust your soil for your chosen plants.  Certainly check your local area for labs near you, or consider sending in your samples to the Umass Soil Testing facility.

Good luck!

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