Posts Tagged ‘garden coach’

Start Your Vegetable Garden on New Year Day

Friday, January 1st, 2010

It’s New Year’s day, which means there’s a lot of football on the tv and not a lot happening in our household. I like my first day of the year to start slow.

Closed Hoop House Keeps Brassicas Growing in Cool Weather

Closed Hoop House Keeps Brassicas Growing in Cool Weather

On a lazy, indoor day like this, when rain is flying in 25+mph winds and our hoop houses threaten to fly away, I can get lost for hours reading through seed catalogs, reviewing past year’s plans, successes and failures, and fine-tuning my future edible garden programs. And, that’s exactly what I did today. And I’m glad I did. Monday, I’ll call in my seed orders, and by the time I return from an early January visit with family on the East coast, my 2010 seed should be here just in time for my first indoor seed date of January 25, 2010. Yep — that’s when the brassica (and other seeds) first get sown indoors under lights with a bit of supplemental bottom heat. I have to wonder – are you ready?

(more…)

  • Share/Bookmark

Growing a Tomato that Stores Well into Winter

Wednesday, December 30th, 2009

If you’re anything like me, you pine for a good, garden-fresh, ripe tomato in the mid-winter months. Sure, hothouse tomatoes have come a long way in recent years, and those sold “on-the-vine” at the grocery store can provide the illusion of garden-fresh.

Late December Long Keeper Tomatoes

Late December Long Keeper Tomatoes

But really, they just aren’t the same. We may be able to bruise the stem and capture a brief whiff of that summery tomato plant scent, but when we slice the waxy red fruit, it never quite lives up to our expectations (and the high price). Plus, my inner locavore really wonders how much these grocery tomatoes really cost in fuel production and transport. So, I look to myself to solve the problem.

In my on-going quest to produce a homegrown tomato for winter, I grew indoor Red Robin cherry tomatoes in my dining room in 2008, with mixed success. And, in 2009 I decided to try Irish Eyes’ Long Keeper in the garden. And, this was definitely a success. Making a few modifications to my regime last year, I’ll definitely be growing this winner again. Here’s the story…

The Long Keeper tomato is an indeterminate (that in my experience performed in pots more like a determinate). It is sold as 82 days to ripening (more on that later). Although the catalogs warn that you may give up a bit in taste, your return on this crop lies in it’s ability to store for a long time — some suggest even all the way through winter.  And, frankly, in mid-winter any store-bought tomato is going to be lacking in taste, spendy and likely a very long-distance traveler from a greenhouse. So, hoping to prove the promises of keeping this tomato into winter, I added it to my seed order last January.

Because I grew several other varieties of tomato to enjoy during the summer and because the Long Keeper was intended as a fresh-storage tomato for us, I scheduled seeding it much later than my other tomatoes. My summer tomatoes were seeded indoors in early March; my Long Keepers were seeded in the greenhouse (unheated and without supplemental light) in late May. In theory, on an 82 day schedule, this would have me harvesting Long Keepers by about the middle of August.

In the end, I found myself harvesting slightly-blushed Long Keeper fruits starting in early October and through the weeks of that month — not the 82 days advertised, but still within the growing season. (And, I have to wonder, is it 82 days from flowering rather than seeding that I should have counted?) By mid-September, I had moved the potted plants from breezy spots throughout the garden into the unheated greenhouse where they were protected from cool temperatures and seasonal rains. Although the fruits didn’t fully ripen on the vine, I went ahead and harvested as a few of them showed a bit of color, knowing they were reputed to finish ripening, slowly in storage. Then, toward the end of October, when I found a couple of fruits splitting from colder night temps, I cleared the last — green or not — from my vines and began the ripening wait.

Cellared Long Keepers in October After Harvest

Cellared Long Keepers in October After Harvest

To store these tomatoes, I used an empty canning jar box with its jar separators to keep each tomato from touching another. I placed the boxes of tomatoes in my basement cellar area near storage onions, squashes and potatoes — they’re all in separate containers stacked in a particular area, sheeted to keep out any of the mild light that makes its way into that dungeon of a room.

Every few days, I check my storage foods for spoilage. As the saying goes, “One rotten apple can spoil the lot.” A few of my storage tomatoes did crack and begin to fail (and were immediately removed to the compost bin). But, most slowly but surely colored up — even the ones that went into storage hard and only slightly starting to turn a lighter shade of green. I found it important to handle them minimally but be sure to rotate their position periodically; the portion touching the cardboard tended to ripen the fastest, so sometimes a fruit that appeared unripe from the top view was actually ready to eat based on the ripened bottom. As I anticipate wanting a tomato or as the cellared gems begin to really blush, I bring them up to the kitchen and place them in a bowl in a warm window where they finish their ripening a little more quickly. (I would not recommend trying to store or rapidly-ripen off these tomatoes all in a window; they can go to rot pretty quickly this way.) Then, I enjoy them, fresh sliced in a salad or on a sandwich. Note: I find that few of them finished ripening near the stem. In some cases it remains yellow but still tasty near the stem. In other cases, I simply tossed that part into the worm bin; they’re always happy to have the fresh snack even if it doesn’t taste good to me.

Yes, the flavor isn’t as magnificent as a Gold Nugget cherry off the vine on the 4th of July. But, in winter, I’m just happy to be able to enjoy a fresh tomato I grew, from seed, in my own backyard. That’s about as locavore as I can get at the end of the year. Sure, I’m making soups and stews with frozen garden tomatoes and sauces and antipastos with dried, but there’s nothing like a fresh one to really brighten up a wintery day.

Long Keeper Sliced into a Late December Salad

Long Keeper Sliced into a Late December Salad

So here’s the thing, I’m still kind of in awe that we were able to enjoy a green salad last night with tomatoes from our garden. And, nope, that wasn’t our last tomato. We still have a few continuing to slowly ripen in the cellar. My guess? They’ll all be done by February, which is well before my tomato harvest will begin again for 2010, but hey, I’m still jealous of myself for having them now!

So, what will I do differently in 2010? First, I’ll definitely seed my Long Keepers in late April as well as later in May. Unlike in 2009, I won’t be traveling in early May this year, so seeding at that time will be possible. And, I’ll grow at least one plant in the ground (as well as in pots again) so I can see how indeterminately it will grow (and how well it might perform in-ground, under hoops in late summer). Oh, and this year I’ll also order Long Keeper Organic seed, which wasn’t offered in 2009, but is now listed in the Irish-Eyes Catalog.

Need help planning your vegetable garden for 2010? Get in touch with Garden Mentors soon for a garden coaching or design program that will help you get your gardening going. Now is the time to start planning. Winter is the time to get your beds ready, test your soil, and order and plant your seeds. Don’t wait ’til Spring to start or you may already be too late!

  • Share/Bookmark

Garden Coach Plans 2010 Vegetable Garden in 2009

Sunday, December 27th, 2009

If you’re anything like me, you’re starting to go a little stir crazy after the madness of the past few days around Christmas. I wrapped, cooked, cleaned, decorated, unwrapped, cleaned, lounged, drank, read, watched movies, played games, and occasionally left the house to walk the dog. Really, it’s been about 3 or 4 days now of doing not much of anything, and I’m starting to get cabin fever despite the clear blue skies above. It’s time for me to move beyond the cookie tin and think about the gardening year ahead.

Witch Hazel in Bloom - A Hummingbird's Winter Feast

Witch Hazel in Bloom - A Hummingbird's Winter Feast

After I finish this post, I’m going to bundle up and get out in the garden for a bit. My greenhouse kale and chard need watering, and I’m just plain tired of looking at dead Monkshood towering above evergreen sword ferns — the prominent view from my favorite reading chair. I want to walk the gardens a bit, perhaps trimming Witch Hazel leaves that don’t receive enough abscisic acid to naturally fall from the now-blooming branches. But, since many of my garden beds are frozen, I likely won’t stray far from my walking paths, which means I won’t be in the garden long. (Stepping on frozen soil can cause compaction, which isn’t good for the soil microbia or the plant roots.) So, like many of you who are snow and ice-bound — or just plain not interested in gardening in frigid weather — I’ll end up spending must of my day working indoors on my 2010 vegetable garden.

Yep, it’s that time. Time to review my crop rotation plans, check my seed inventories, make a list of seed to order, and begin calendering out my 2010 seeding program. After all these years, it’s still a little surprising to look over my January calender for 2009 and realize I was seeding cabbages just a few weeks after the new year began.

Cabbage Harvested in July was Seeded in January

Cabbage Harvested in July was Seeded in January

So, today I’m reviewing my notes from prior years, checking what worked, what failed and determining what I believe I can do better and how I will achieve better success — now is the time for gardeners to begin making plans for an even better garden in 2010.

If getting out in the garden itself isn’t realistic right now, I encourage you to start your vegetable garden planning today. And, if you need help, get in touch here to sign up for a gardening consultation soon. Together, we’ll build the right garden and gardening program for your successful 2010 vegetable (or ornamental garden)!

Plus, if you’re attending the 2010 Northwest Flower and Garden Show, I invite you to join me for my presentation on Ornamedibles. In this seminar, I will provide design solutions for creating beautiful, edible spaces — whether you have room for a small container or a much larger space, adding edibles is a lovely way to enhance your gardening experience.

Hmmm…maybe before I head out, I’ll eat something — perhaps a delicious long keeper tomato from my 2009 vegetable garden. Yep, they were a great success. Harvested green or just blushing in September, they’ve continued to slowly ripe in our root cellar. I’ve got one that’s begging to be eaten with the last bit of lettuce in the greenhouse — maybe a BLT is in my very near future. Then — into the garden!

  • Share/Bookmark

Garden Coach on Why to Love December 22nd

Tuesday, December 22nd, 2009

It’s kind of hard to believe that a gray, cold day like today — December 22nd — is one I’m going to say good things about.

Snoqualmie Falls in Wintery Glory

Snoqualmie Falls in Wintery Glory

So many of us are overwhelmed with holiday this & that — getting ready for Giftmas as one my friends so aptly re-christened Christmas, struggling with frozen forms of water trapping us indoors and bringing on the cabin fever crazies, and just trying to stay positive despite the seasonal blues. Still, though we truly embark on winter today, we are also over the hump and on our way to spring and summer.

I may be waxing romantic as I rejoice in today’s 7:56am sunrise and 4:21pm sunset, which in theory will provide me with one whole minute of additional sun than I enjoyed yesterday when the sun rose at 7:55am (also setting at 4:21pm). But that really is one minute closer to the long days we get to enjoy at summer solstice when the sun will rise at 5:21am and set at 9:11pm.

The First of Many Cabbages from My 2009 Veggie Garden

The First of Many Cabbages from My 2009 Veggie Garden

We may have the long, icy road of winter ahead before we reach the time when day lengths significantly increase, warming our garden soils and super-charging plant growth. But, one minute at a time we’ll get there — starting today. And, rather than sit around, wallowing in the blues that these short, monotone days can induce, I encourage you to take a hike, enjoy the beauty, soak up what sunshine you can find, throw a snowball, and when you get home to warm yourself by the fire, grab a seed catalog and plan next year’s garden. Remember — seeding time is just around the corner!

Not sure what to start when? If you’re planning veggies from seed in Seattle, odds are you’ll want to start planting some seed as early as January. The cabbages I seeded in 2009 in January were ready for harvest by early June (and continued to feed us for most of the summer). Need help planning your own vegetable garden? Get in touch now to schedule your garden coaching session for winter, which is the best time to plan. Having your gardening program in place before spring will give you more time to enjoy your 2010 garden spaces and delicious harvests, too.

  • Share/Bookmark

Garden Coach on Getting the Best Dirt on Your Garden Soil for Planting Success

Tuesday, September 1st, 2009

Often readers write in with general questions about garden soil. Readers may comment that they have “wonderful” soil because it is “dark”,  but nothing will grow in it. Or they may complain that it is so dark it gets too hot for plants. Others will talk about “fixing” their earth for a specific planting by adding in a bag of potting soil to the spot where the new plantings were to go only to find out later that this technique didn’t quite work. Others won’t have much to say about their soil but will ask what amendments to add to their garden soil so their plants will do better. So, what’s the real dirt on garden soil and what can gardeners do to create healthy rooting zones for their plants?

Cabbages Planted in March into Tested, Amended Soil

Cabbages Planted in March into Tested, Amended Soil

Well, first off, you can’t tell what’s really going on with your soil simply by looking at it. Just because it appears dark doesn’t mean it is rich and nutritious. As well, just because it appears moist, it may not be. And, amending soil only in the place a plant will be placed will not make for a good long term solution.

The best way to know what’s going on with your soil is to have it tested. Yes, you can purchase a small home soil kit to determine your soil’s pH (how acidic or alkaline your soil is) and what your basic nutrient values are (NPK). However, if you take a sample and send it to a soil lab you will be able to determine much more information, and many labs will give you solutions for adjusting your soil based on what is currently in the soil as well as what you plan to grow in the space. If you do your test at home, you may determine that you have excessive Nitrogen (N) and sufficient Potassium (K), but did you know that Nitrogen in excess can suppress your Potassium? A lab test will look at your true levels and consider these aspects of soil science as well as just what’s in there.

Additionally, soil tests can provide you with details on material percentages in your soil. Not only can you determine how much mineral v. organic material is in the soil, but also which mineral material (sand, silt, clay) is in the soil and in what percentage. Knowing this detail will help you understand how nutrients are held or lost in the soil (and the same for water).

Some labs will also provide details on heavy metal soil levels. Remember, lead and arsenic can exist in the soil. Even if you aren’t growing food crops, which can take up these elements and put them in your zucchini, you will still be exposed to whatever levels exist in your garden — touching them each time you weed or play on the lawn with your kids and dog and tracking them into your home each time you stroll in from the garden path.

Same Cabbages Ready for Harvest in July

Same Cabbages Ready for Harvest in July

And, some labs will also provide details on your soil microbial levels. Healthy soil is inhabited by a balance of insects, worms, bacteria, fungi and more that live together in harmony. When their balance is off, so too is soil and plant health “off”. For instance, in the presence of high phosphorous (P) mycorrhizal fungi may be suppressed. These fungi are critical to plant root health and function.

So, to get the real dirt on your soil? Have it tested.

And, a brief note on those who would prepare soil by digging a hole, adding a bag of potting soil and then planting. Please don’t. Essentially, this method can result in creating a pot or container-like soil environment within the existing soil. Your potting soil may likely hold too much water, which has a distaste for passing between layers of dissimilar material. If this happens, your new plants roots may become water logged. Or, in other situations, the roots may hesitate to pass out of the nutrient-high potting soil environment into the surrounding garden soil. This can cause circling, kinked and girdling roots — none of which lead to a healthy plant. Better to test your overall soil, adjust as recommended and plant into a soil that is blended throughout.

And, just a reminder to test your soil by digging in before watering. Just because soil looks moist or dry doesn’t mean it really is. Watering by the calender or by visual clues isn’t enough. Dig in to test for moisture needs and avoid wasting water by over-watering or stressing plant roots by under-watering.

Now to find the right soil lab for your needs. Here are a few to consider (and note that each of these offers other types of testing such as crop nutrient detailing and tissue sampling): (more…)

  • Share/Bookmark

Garden Coach on Planning the Fall Edible Garden in Mid-Summer

Saturday, August 8th, 2009

So often clients contact me around this time of year to ask if they can still seed edibles. Their busy schedules — whether due to work or kids or vacations or visiting family — get in the way and delay their time in the garden. I get it. Most aren’t like me. I’m in my garden at least a few times daily during summer, giving me the opportunity to monitor everything very closely. That doesn’t mean I get everything done, but I sure do get a handle on how quickly a weed can grow in a day! For my clients, however, their forays into the garden may happen once every couple days. So, they’re often struggling to know just how open a seeding window really remains.

Closed Hoop House Keeps Brassicas Growing in Cool Weather

Closed Hoop House Keeps Brassicas Growing in Cool Weather

Whether you have time to seed more edibles really depends on where you live and what the edible requires to grow and set edible fruit (or root or leaves). Here in Seattle in mid-August, the window for seeding summer crops like cucumber and sweet corn has passed for the year. However, there is still a small window open to seed fall crops like cauliflower, chard, beets, broccoli and lettuce. And, actually, for some of these items, there are many weeks remaining. Too, if your edible gardening spaces include a greenhouse or a hoop house or even a cold frame, that seeding window may stay open even a bit longer. Too, crops like garlic don’t even get planted until October.

The message is: if you’re in the Seattle area and you plan to grow fall edibles from seed (or even from start), don’t delay much longer. If you’ll be rotating out summer crops to make room for fall crops to harvest into early November, monitor those summer crops carefully, removing spent plants right away to deter disease and to make way to put in those fall kales, broccoli and turnips. If you don’t, that window will slam shut even as summer sun continues to warm warm our days and ripen our summer harvest. Of course, if you miss the chance to seed, local nurseries are stocking up fall edible starts right now. Beginning from starts may give you a little more wiggle room as the season wanes, but it is still critical the plants have time to get in the ground and begin to grow strong roots before the soil cools for the coming fall and winter.

Need help? Get in touch to schedule a vegetable garden consultation session now!

  • Share/Bookmark

How Much Time Does a Garden Coach Spend in Her Garden Each Week

Wednesday, May 20th, 2009

Yesterday I was helping a regular client prune several woody shrubs away from a deck she’ll be renovating this summer. The shrub work was long past due, but together we made great progress. As we were working she asked, “Robin, how many hours a week do you spend working in your garden?”

Stone & Filled Beds Make for Easy Summer Care

Stone & Filled Beds Make for Easy Summer Care

Hmmm…that was like getting the job interview question you’re completely unprepared for. Fortunately, I wasn’t interviewing for a job as the question gave me pause. How much time do I spend working in my own garden in a week?

I answered my client honestly. I barely have time and energy left this time of year to get out in my own garden. My hands are exhausted from pruning and weeding and typing and writing all day, so my own weeds flourish and my shrubs thrive despite the work I know I should devote to them.

Fortunately, I’ve invested almost a decade developing my garden, which has a lot of stone work. And, stones don’t require a lot of maintenance. And, my beds are quite full from years of planting, dividing and spreading perennials. Some I regret and now classify in the weed department (Alstromeria & cat mint rules this regret.) Still, I would like to have garden perfection with zero weeds, perfectly coiffed shrubs and pest-free cabbages.  But, time is at a premium. And when free evenings bring lightening storms and hail such as we had last night, I miss out on my rare opportunities to weed away the evening sunlight.

So, to answer the question. I find myself puttering through the garden with coffee each morning most days of the year for a good 30 minutes or so. I visit my potted garden and greenhouse for about 30 minutes a day in spring and summer (at least). I visit my veggie beds daily to harvest (if not to weed and plant and water) for about 20 minutes a day. And, when I have an actual day to really get out there. Well, those are the days I can put in a good 8-10 hours renovating big spaces and making progress pruning those shrubs, pulling those weeds, squashing those slugs and dressing up the finished areas with a nutrious layer of composted mulch. And, of course, I try to wind down sunny evenings sitting in the garden with a glass of wine or iced tea — and odds are, I’ll pull another weed while I’m at it. So shall we say I spend a good hour or two, on an average day, working in the garden (and sometimes quite a bit more.)

Now that I’ve wrapped up this thought, I’m going to escape into my own garden for a rare two hour, mid-day weed-a-thon. Wish me luck!

  • Share/Bookmark

Garden Coach Gets Schooled

Thursday, May 14th, 2009

Sometimes I need to get out of my own head. By that, I mean, I need to experience a variety of gardens and learn from other gardeners to maintain my edge and gather sparks of new inspiration. This week I’ve had abundant input and will be writing about all of these experiences here at gardenhelp.org in the days ahead.

Today a teaser of what’s to come in future gardenhelp.org writings:

  • Tuckahoe Plantation: I had a unique opportunity to visit Tuckahoe Plantation, the boyhood home of Thomas Jefferson,  and volunteer my time at an event to raise awareness about land conservation in Virginia (and beyond).
  • Agecroft Hall: My cousin, who inspired me to return to school to study horticulture after she had done the same several years ago, introduced me to Sandra, the head gardener of Agecroft. Agecoft Hall is a Tudor Manor built in the 15th century in England; it was purchased, dismantled and shipped to Virginia in the 1920s when it was rebuilt on the banks of the James River. Sandy was kind enough to lead me on a private tour of the gardens on a closed day.
  • Monticello & Michie Tavern: I spent one day outside Charlottesville, VA taking in the history and gardens of Thomas Jefferson’s plantation home, Monticello. I developed quite a bit of garden envy, purchased some native divisions from Jefferson’s own gardens (that I have to give to local Virginia gardening friends), and I picked up heritage seed to take to my own Seattle garden. And, we lunched at Michie (pronounced “Mickey” as in “Mouse”).
  • Graves Mountain Lodge: This lodge is nestled at the base of the Blue Ridge Mountains. During my childhood we travelled to this area to pick up crates of apples and peachs to put up as jams and pies. Getting to enjoy a meal at the historic lodge as always very special. Going as an adult was no let-down either!
  • Winston: Winston, VA is the home of our family’s country store. It’s been owned and managed by family members for many generations. In days gone by it was an important mailstop along the railroad. Today, the potbelly stove is still a gathering place for farmers and family to chew the fat and enjoy a tasty lunch from the deli. My cousin maintains a big veggie garden, a big chicken coop and roses that have been intact longer than the oldest living members of the family can remember.
  • Woodhaven: Woodhaven is a family homestead built in old growth Oak forests by my grandmother’s family — the Woods. The home was hand-built multiple generations ago and is still lovingly maintained and lived in by my cousin. The asparagus patch installed when I was a child still produces. And, the woods of Woodhaven are coming back after being decimated over a decade ago by loggers who took advantage of my elderly aunt and gyspy moth that attacked what remained.
  • Moss Garden: Today I am looking forward to a spring tour of Nori’s Moss garden. It was fantastic when I saw it a couple of years ago in winter; I can’t wait to see it in full mid-spring glory!

There’s your teaser. More information and photos will follow in the weeks ahead. Right now I need to get ready to visit Nori and her moss garden!

  • Share/Bookmark

Garden Coach Covers the Garden Favorites Everyone Lost in the 2008 Seattle Winter

Friday, April 24th, 2009

One of the questions I’ve come to expect this spring from my garden coaching clients relates to winter damage: “Is my (insert plant name here or point at a pile of sticks) dead?”

Beautiful Lavender and Rosemary To Replace

Beautiful Lavender and Rosemary To Replace

Consistently, there are a few plants that gave up the ghost after Seattle’s unseasonably cold winter between 2008 and 2009. Many of these plants struggled heartily until the very last freeze, which put the nail in the coffin for them.  If you have any of these plants, and they seem to be dead, they may very well be goners. Try the fingernail test to be sure before you yank them out.

Scratch a small area of the stem and see if it comes up green or brown. If it is green, there may be a bit of life left. If you have patience and tolerance, wait another couple of weeks to see if it begins to leaf out. If it does, you may be able prune out the dead and see your plant bounce back. If the stem is black or brown underneath the bark layer, it is probably dead. However, some plants may have died back completely on top but will bounce back from the roots. So, check the lowest portion of cane grower branches before you tear out the plant. There may be some new growth coming off the base or from the root system. These hearty, hard-hit plants may be beaten down, but they aren’t beaten. With some gardener TLC and patience, they’ll probably spring back over the next season — even if they aren’t quite as vigorous as before.

Will I stop using these plants in the garden after so many dieing this winter? Not likely. Most are fantastic landscape plants that consistently perform well in the Seattle area. I may change my mind if we continue to lose these each winter going forward, but for now, I still think there’s a place for these lost companions in our gardens.

RIP (aka rip it please, replace if pooped, and of course, rest in peace):

  • Lavender: Spanish, English, French. You name it, most kicked the can this winter. Some are broken in the middle and half alive.  Readily available in the trade and not terribly expensive, this might be a good plant to replace.
  • Rosemary: Trailing and upright. Old and newly planted. I’ve seen tree forms and wall trailers all gone kaput. As with lavender, they’re not-to0-pricey and readily available at nurseries.
  • Ceanothus: Every big, upright tree version I’ve seen since winter has died. Low, groundcover forms seem to be fine. Some younger shrubby ones are heavily defoliated but will likely bounce back.
  • New Zealand Flax: Flattened octopus is how I’d describe them. The tiny, dwarf varieties seem to have made it. The giant forms and the heavily variegated forms crashed consistently. Try digging them up and/or cutting them hard before you completely give up. There may be life in there yet. It’s just going to take some time for them to bounce back.
  • Daphne: Most are blooming, but they took a heavy defoliation hit this year. I’m waiting to see how/if they’ll come back for use after the bloom season is complete.
  • Erysimum: Mine gave up early and became a tumbleweed in the garden. This is a plant that usually gets replaced after a few years in the garden anyway, so this is the year to swap in new ones.
  • Heavenly bamboo: I’m seeing a mixed performance with these Nandina. Some are completely dead. Some died to the ground and are sending up new canes this spring. Some just defoliated heavily. I lost one gulf stream while another very nearby did just fine, and they’re the same age. Check yours carefully. This cane grower may surprise you yet.
  • Rose: Mixed bag here, too. Some did fine until the very end. Others just gave up. Some are sending up new canes, but from below the graft point, so they may not be the hybrid beauties from years past.
  • Fatsia: I’ve seen a few completely die back. I’ve cut a few hard to living bud points, and they seem to be coming back. It’s slow going, but hopefully not a complete loss.
  • Evergreen Magnolia: Sadly, I think the last freeze may have done these in. Heavy defoliation. Tip dieback and no new growth yet on many in my clients’ gardens. They make it past the scratch test, but we have yet to see what is to come.
  • Euphorbia: Mixed bag here. Some crashed. Some are spectacular. Clear out the dead portions and see how they bounce back.
  • Camellia sasanqua: These are your winter blooming camellia that didn’t bloom, or didn’t bloom well this winter. The freezes hit around the time they were ready to bloom causing bud blast. Some the plants split (like mine). Some just didn’t flower. Some died back.
  • Viburnum tinus: These evergreen shrubs took the winter hard and are going through heavy defoliation. Black leaves, dieing flowers and more. Some are gone. Others are struggling.
  • Escallonia: This shiny evergreen has shown up dead all over the greater Seattle area. Some shrubs are partially alive, but looking pretty well shot. Others are black and gone.
  • Pittosporum: Dead and dead. I have considered this a “California plant” and don’t use it. This year it died more consistently than ever.
  • Elaeagnus:The lovely variegated varieties did some interior defoliation, but they seem to be bouncing back nicely.
  • Evergreen clematis: The heavily dissected specialty forms have shown up dead or at least the top growth died back pretty consistently. The standard armandii is a mixed bag; older ones seem fine. Younger plantings struggled.
  • Hebes: It was a mixed bag for the Hebes. In my experience the varieties that don’t have a lot of deep purple  seem to be the ones that faired best. Here’s a few and how they did:
    • Hebe caledonia turned black, but it did sprout from the stems this spring.
    • Hebe pinquefolia had no problems
    • Hebe buxifolia had no problems
    • Hebe ‘Patty’s Purple’ died
    • Hebe ‘Amy’ died
    • Hebe ‘James Sirling’ had no problems
    • Hebe ‘Tricolor’ died (as it does in every winter here)
    • Hebe ‘Quicksilver’ had no problems
    • Hebe procumbens had no problems
Iced Rosebud

Iced Rosebud

As you’ve probably noticed, there’s a pattern here (if you take out the roses). These are all evergreen plants. Despite their ability to plug through our winters, they bear the brunt of heavy snow loads, desiccating winter winds and freezing temperatures. Likely, you’ve noticed how well many of your perennials and deciduous shrubs are doing after being protected under the soil and in leafless dormancy through the rough winter.

If nothing else, I hope this list gives you some solace during your time of loss. Each gardener lost some beloved plant this winter, and as we mourn together, we can take comfort in knowing that these losses likely weren’t the result of our green thumbs turning brown. Instead, it was mother nature reminding us not everything is in our control.

If you’ve noticed plants in your garden or around town that are goners, please share them in the comments section!

  • Share/Bookmark

Garden Coach on Gardening in Inclement Weather

Wednesday, April 1st, 2009

It’s April Fool’s Day 2009, and it’s snowing in Seattle — no joke. Last year our last snow arrived in mid-April, so I shouldn’t be too surprised we’re seeing snow, sleet, cold rain today. But, it really puts a cramp in my gardening programs.

Flowering Winter Currant, Cousin to the Black Currant

Flowering Winter Currant, Cousin to the Black Currant

Yes, I do work in inclement weather. I get muddy, drenched, cold and stiff out there on days like today. But, sometimes I make a judgment call to reschedule appointments when the weather is rough. It’s not because I think my clients can’t handle a little cold and wet and muddy. Gardeners, new and old, need to get out there in any weather and just go for it. But, there are a couple of exceptions…for instance…

Last weekend I had scheduled to help a client install new plants. On the scheduled day we woke up to soggy soil and an incessant downpour. I knew we would be working on a narrow rockery with a steep drop off. I also knew that the soil was saturated and would be compacted by our tramping and transplanting. For the safety of the plants and the people, I rescheduled the planting session for the following day, which turned out to be clear, sunny and warm.

This morning I was scheduled to provide an initial gardening consultation to a new client who lives at the edge of our convergence zone. As the time to leave my house approached, I noticed snow creeping into our steady downpour. Since this new client wanted help planning and evaluating his spaces, I knew much of our two hours would be spent in the garden where both of us would be taking notes, sketching and talking. Yes, I use Rite-in-the-Rain paper, which works really well (up to a point) in rough weather. But, would my client really be able to learn and focus in a snowy, cold, wet downpour? I had my doubts. So, I rang him up and gave him the option to reschedule. He sighed with relief saying, “I hoped you’d call. It’s snowing here.”

I didn’t lose a client in either case. In the planting installation example I actually saved myself the pain and misery of planting in rough weather, and I probably saved my client some money by completing the job more rapidly in better weather. Plus, her garden soil didn’t take a huge compaction hit from traffic and planting while soggy. In the case of the consulting client, he’s now scheduled for a day that (at least right now) looks to be drier and warmer. Who doesn’t like that option?

So not only do I encourage you to be patient with your gardener gardening in winter, but remember that just because we’ve entered daylight savings and the calender says it is spring it doesn’t mean Mother Nature will automagically give us perfect days of sunshine and rainbows. Today she’s having a pretty good April Fool’s joke on all of us here in the greater Seattle area. So, my advice, go with it. Have a laugh and find a way to roll with the punches. There really isn’t anything you can do about it anyway.

  • Share/Bookmark