Posts Tagged ‘crops’

Garden Coach Plans 2010 Vegetable Garden in 2009

Sunday, December 27th, 2009

If you’re anything like me, you’re starting to go a little stir crazy after the madness of the past few days around Christmas. I wrapped, cooked, cleaned, decorated, unwrapped, cleaned, lounged, drank, read, watched movies, played games, and occasionally left the house to walk the dog. Really, it’s been about 3 or 4 days now of doing not much of anything, and I’m starting to get cabin fever despite the clear blue skies above. It’s time for me to move beyond the cookie tin and think about the gardening year ahead.

Witch Hazel in Bloom - A Hummingbird's Winter Feast

Witch Hazel in Bloom - A Hummingbird's Winter Feast

After I finish this post, I’m going to bundle up and get out in the garden for a bit. My greenhouse kale and chard need watering, and I’m just plain tired of looking at dead Monkshood towering above evergreen sword ferns — the prominent view from my favorite reading chair. I want to walk the gardens a bit, perhaps trimming Witch Hazel leaves that don’t receive enough abscisic acid to naturally fall from the now-blooming branches. But, since many of my garden beds are frozen, I likely won’t stray far from my walking paths, which means I won’t be in the garden long. (Stepping on frozen soil can cause compaction, which isn’t good for the soil microbia or the plant roots.) So, like many of you who are snow and ice-bound — or just plain not interested in gardening in frigid weather — I’ll end up spending must of my day working indoors on my 2010 vegetable garden.

Yep, it’s that time. Time to review my crop rotation plans, check my seed inventories, make a list of seed to order, and begin calendering out my 2010 seeding program. After all these years, it’s still a little surprising to look over my January calender for 2009 and realize I was seeding cabbages just a few weeks after the new year began.

Cabbage Harvested in July was Seeded in January

Cabbage Harvested in July was Seeded in January

So, today I’m reviewing my notes from prior years, checking what worked, what failed and determining what I believe I can do better and how I will achieve better success — now is the time for gardeners to begin making plans for an even better garden in 2010.

If getting out in the garden itself isn’t realistic right now, I encourage you to start your vegetable garden planning today. And, if you need help, get in touch here to sign up for a gardening consultation soon. Together, we’ll build the right garden and gardening program for your successful 2010 vegetable (or ornamental garden)!

Plus, if you’re attending the 2010 Northwest Flower and Garden Show, I invite you to join me for my presentation on Ornamedibles. In this seminar, I will provide design solutions for creating beautiful, edible spaces — whether you have room for a small container or a much larger space, adding edibles is a lovely way to enhance your gardening experience.

Hmmm…maybe before I head out, I’ll eat something — perhaps a delicious long keeper tomato from my 2009 vegetable garden. Yep, they were a great success. Harvested green or just blushing in September, they’ve continued to slowly ripe in our root cellar. I’ve got one that’s begging to be eaten with the last bit of lettuce in the greenhouse — maybe a BLT is in my very near future. Then — into the garden!

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How to Dry Tomatoes for Long Storage and How to Use them Too

Monday, October 5th, 2009

This year I made a commitment to myself to grow more food and to grow more food from seed. I ordered seed way back in January and started seed indoors in February. I ended up with so many food crop starts that many went to other gardeners. And, enjoying a record summer, my garden produced enough food to feed us and allow us to take several bags of food to the local food bank each week.

Eight Pounds of Saucy Paste Tomatoes

Eight Pounds of Saucy Paste Tomatoes

Despite eating heartily from our fresh crops and giving a lot away, we’ve found ourselves preserving lots of our garden-fresh food to last us into the winter ahead. Among the many delicious fruits and veggies we’ve put up,  we’ll be enjoying are a few pounds of dried tomatoes.

Drying tomatoes is fairly simple, and their uses are quite diverse. In our house, we’ll put defrosted chopped tomatoes in a blender with a few dried to create a rich marinara base. Or, we’ll use Barbara & Camille Kingsolver’s fantastic Antipasto Tomatoes (from their wonderful family book Animal, Vegetable, Miracle) as a snack or on a pizza or chopped and rolled in mozzarella or in a mixed seasonal veggie saute (see recipe below). Friends who have enjoyed these have asked how I prepare them for storage, so here goes:

How many tomatoes will you need? In my experience, using Saucy Paste tomatoes, which are a nearly seedless Roma style tomato grown for saucing, not slicing, I find that about 8 pounds of fresh tomatoes yields about 8 ounces dried tomatoes. I’ve found that slicing tomatoes don’t make the best dried tomatoes and are essentially a waste of a good tomato.

Paste Tomatoes Prepped for Dehydration

Paste Tomatoes Prepped for Dehydration

How do you prepare tomatoes to dry? Wash the tomatoes, slice lengthwise, remove seeds and inner juices and any interior stems and bad spots. I then place them in a bowl and toss together with a sprinkle of sea salt, a dash of superfine sugar, a pinch of thyme and a dollop of olive oil. Certainly, you can dry them without anything added or you could adjust using other herbs. Just use a light hand with your additives so the tomato goodness stands out.

How do you dry the tomatoes? If you have a food dehydrator, line the trays with the cut side of the tomato up. Flip it on and let it run. Depending on the juiciness of the tomatoes and the power of the dehydrator, generally they’ll be ready to store in about 24 hours. If you don’t have a food dehydrator, line cookie sheets with tomatoes, cut side up. Turn oven to low setting, around 200F, and roast tomatoes until dried. This can take anywhere from 2-6+ hours.

How do I know that my tomatoes are properly dried?

Tomatoes on the Dehydrator Trays

Tomatoes on the Dehydrator Trays

Your tomatoes will be ready when they are leathery and tough. It is important to remove all the moisture from the tomatoes to ensure you don’t end up with spoilage (aka rotten tomatoes).

How do I store my dried tomatoes? In our household, dried tomatoes are put into vacuum seal canisters and kept in a vacuum for long storage. When our canisters overflow, extras are vacuum sealed in bags and frozen for extra long storage. Packed in jars, covered with olive oil, dried tomatoes will last a couple of weeks in the fridge.

Now that I’ve dried them, what do I do with them? Following is a delicious seasonal veggie saute we thoroughly enjoy. It comes together quickly and can be the bed for a delicious chop or just a wonderful wilted salad on its own:

Change of Season Veggie Saute with Dried Tomatoes:

Ingredients for this saute can be modified based on what you have on hand. I happened to find fantastic baby boletes at the farmer’s market yesterday, and I harvested the last, tiny crookneck squash from my garden this week as I pulled out the plants for the season. Use your own favorites and let the flavors shine! (This combo is fantastic served with garlic-balsamic-rosemary grilled lamb chops)

8 Ounces of Dried Saucy Paste from 8 lbs Fresh

8 Ounces of Dried Saucy Paste from 8 lbs Fresh

  • Kingsolver Antipasto tomatoes (use about 8 tomatoes for the saute & store any extras you have)
  • 2 cups par-boiled fingerling potatoes, cut into 1″ rounds
  • 1 cup sliced or baby yellow crookneck squash
  • 1 cup chopped fresh bolete mushrooms
  • 1 small onion, chopped
  • 1 T. chopped garlic
  • Olive Oil
  • Salt & Pepper
  • Fresh mixed tender seasonal leafy greens like arugula & spinach

Roughly chop Antipasto Tomatoes for saute and set aside.

Saute chopped onion & garlic in olive oil until onion begins to brown. Add mushrooms and squash. Sear briefly. Add in potatoes and toss to warm. Remove from heat.

In batches, toss saute with leafy greens and tomatoes until greens are just barely wilted. (Remaining heat in pan should be enough to wilt).

Plate up and eat!

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Garden Coach on Planning the Fall Edible Garden in Mid-Summer

Saturday, August 8th, 2009

So often clients contact me around this time of year to ask if they can still seed edibles. Their busy schedules — whether due to work or kids or vacations or visiting family — get in the way and delay their time in the garden. I get it. Most aren’t like me. I’m in my garden at least a few times daily during summer, giving me the opportunity to monitor everything very closely. That doesn’t mean I get everything done, but I sure do get a handle on how quickly a weed can grow in a day! For my clients, however, their forays into the garden may happen once every couple days. So, they’re often struggling to know just how open a seeding window really remains.

Closed Hoop House Keeps Brassicas Growing in Cool Weather

Closed Hoop House Keeps Brassicas Growing in Cool Weather

Whether you have time to seed more edibles really depends on where you live and what the edible requires to grow and set edible fruit (or root or leaves). Here in Seattle in mid-August, the window for seeding summer crops like cucumber and sweet corn has passed for the year. However, there is still a small window open to seed fall crops like cauliflower, chard, beets, broccoli and lettuce. And, actually, for some of these items, there are many weeks remaining. Too, if your edible gardening spaces include a greenhouse or a hoop house or even a cold frame, that seeding window may stay open even a bit longer. Too, crops like garlic don’t even get planted until October.

The message is: if you’re in the Seattle area and you plan to grow fall edibles from seed (or even from start), don’t delay much longer. If you’ll be rotating out summer crops to make room for fall crops to harvest into early November, monitor those summer crops carefully, removing spent plants right away to deter disease and to make way to put in those fall kales, broccoli and turnips. If you don’t, that window will slam shut even as summer sun continues to warm warm our days and ripen our summer harvest. Of course, if you miss the chance to seed, local nurseries are stocking up fall edible starts right now. Beginning from starts may give you a little more wiggle room as the season wanes, but it is still critical the plants have time to get in the ground and begin to grow strong roots before the soil cools for the coming fall and winter.

Need help? Get in touch to schedule a vegetable garden consultation session now!

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A Few Random Thoughts from a Busy Garden Coach as we Approach Summer Solstice

Sunday, June 14th, 2009

I haven’t been writing nearly as much as I do during the colder, dormant season. It’s much more fun, and profitable, for me to spend time in the garden rather than writing about the garden. Yet, as I’m looking down the barrel of summer solstice, I want to share a few quick gardening tips that may prove helpful. Solstice marks the time when days following, sadly, start to become shorter. Plants are greatly in tune with this, and your work, based on timing,  can make a huge difference in your gardening successes (and failures):

  • Pinching perennials: Not only will deadheading help extend your flowering season for most perennials, but if you tip back (aka a pinch-to-a-node) late flowering types (Mums, especially) with alternating cuts, you can create bushier plants with more blooms that are less likely to flop over when they get top-heavy with blossoms. But, stop tipping around solstice or you may not get any blooms at all.  If you’re dealing with plants that you don’t want to bloom, like basil, keep on pinchin’!
  • Pruning: Don’t prune plants that bloomed in late winter/early spring or you risk cutting off next winter’s blooms. If you haven’t sheared your hedges, which is best done in late winter/early spring, you’re running out of time. If you shear too late, you risk looking at choppy cuts all winter or forcing soft growth that gets killed in early frosts.
  • Big Harvest in June for the Foodbank

    Big Harvest in June for the Foodbank

    Seeding and Planting: You still have time to seed many hot season crops, but again, your time is running out. Get those last rounds of tomatoes, basil, peppers, squashes and beans in the ground now to extend your harvest period. Plus, now’s the time to start seeding those fall/winter crops to get them ready to set out for winter harvesting — think kale, broccoli, chard and cabbage.

  • Harvest, Eat, Preserve: As your crops roll in, stay on top of harvesting even if that means you end up making sauerkraut in June or giving away lettuce to the foodbank. By doing this, you’ll make room to rotate in new crops and reduce the likelihood of inviting pests and disease and self-seeded bolting crops into the garden by leaving past-their-prime edibles in the soil.

And finally, enjoy these long days. Soon enough we’ll all be wrapped in polar fleece, snuggling near a warm fire, desperately seeking a bloom somewhere to discuss in the many posts we have time to write up during winter. For me, for now, I’m off to put out more mammoth sunflowers, zinnia, basil and late season tomatoes to enjoy into the many remaining months of summer.

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