Posts Tagged ‘arboriculture’

Topics in Arboriculture and Relating to Wayne and Garth

Monday, December 7th, 2009

Curious about trees and want to learn a bit more? Several years ago I signed up for Topics in Arboriculture at Lake Washington Technical College and have never regretted it. I haven’t taken the ISA exams — mostly because I am so humbled by the mighty tree that I feel much like Garth when confronted with something as magnificent as a great, powerful, awe-inspiring, beautiful and perhaps even ailing tree. Sure, I enjoy trees and hope to understand them (and maybe I even worship them a bit), so at least for now, I continue to be an life-long student of arboriculture rather than a certified arborist.

Not Worthy

The knowledge I gained in this course and the relationships I built while taking it continue to be priceless. When I find myself out of my league when faced with a particular tree issue, this course gave me the skills and knowledge to first recognize my limits and second reach out to a greater network of professionals who specialize in trees.

Whether you’re sitting for the ISA exams or just want to learn more about trees and modern methodologies for working with them, this course is one not to miss!

When: Winter Quarter 2010, Tuesdays from 2-5pm beginning January 4, 2010

Where: Lake Washington Technical College, 11605-132nd Avenue, NE, Kirkland, WA 98034 425.739.8279

Course Title: Topics in Arboriculture, HORT 138 (3 credits)

Course Description: In class the students will gain an understanding of topics and issues essential to working with trees in urban landscapes. Some topics covered include tree biology, nutrition, pruning, plant health care, and soils. The ISA Arborists Certification Study Guide will be the text. This class would be helpful for anyone taking the ISA exams. ISA continuing education credits available & CPH credit available.

Registration information here

Other LWTC Horticulture Winter Courses here

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Why I’m Happy When My Katsura Turns Brown

Wednesday, October 7th, 2009

This morning, looking out the kitchen window at a stunning pink sunrise, my eye was torn between the beauty of said sunrise and the flashing brilliance of my sunshine-yellow Katsura. It reminded me to share this post again, singing the praises of this beautiful and surprisingly fragrant tree, the Katsura.

If you’re interested in adding a Katsura to your garden, keep in mind that they do need supplemental water in the summer, particularly in their early years. They’ll stand up to hot, full sun locations. But, also remember, this is not a small tree. They get big! Often I see them planted in parking strips, too close together, or under power lines. Unfortunately, what may appear to be a small, delicate tree will evolve into a giant in no time. Give these beauties room to stretch out and really show their stuff. (Note: there are cultivars that form wide, but weeping canopies. These won’t get as tall as the species, but they aren’t tiny either.)

The following is from an original post dated October 16, 2008:

Katsura showing Yellow Fall Color

Katsura Yellowing in October

Those of you familiar with the Katsura tree (Cercidiphyllum japonicum) already know the answer, but until you know this tree’s autumn secret you’re bound to love it anyway. Katsura trees have ruffled heart shape leaves, diverse form, and furrowed grey bark. Their fall color may range from clear yellow to deeper tones of yellow and orange. If you’re really lucky it may even have a strawberry pink tone. But this tree’s most fantastic aspect happens when the leaves finally detatch from the stem and fall to the ground.  Sure, you’re then looking at bare stems for winter and brown piles of leaves to rake up. But did you notice the fragrance of burnt sugar or cotton candy wafting in the air?

The Katsura tree’s final farewell to summer comes in doses of country fair or candy factory fragrance. The brown leaves on the ground, mingling with moist fall soil, fills the air with a spectacular, surprising, sugary treat that I have yet to find in another tree. As much as I adore the astringent scent of rosemary, the dusty aroma of sage and the peanut-buttery goodness of a glorybower, there’s nothing that makes my nose happier than the brown, crunchy leaves from my Katsura.

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Why Not to Hire a Tree Trimmer Who Wears Spikes

Thursday, May 21st, 2009

Yesterday I met with a new client in Seattle. As I walked up to his home, I immediately noticed three Cherry trees in the front parking strip had been topped recently. However, it wasn’t until I was reviewing the back garden that I saw the worst of the tree trimming horrors his garden had sustained. Not only had he hired a crew that was willing to top his trees, but they climbed a cypress in his backyard wearing climbing spikes, which damaged the bark and cambium layer of the tree terribly. When I saw the spiked trunk, at first I thought someone had hit the base of the tree with a car because so much of the lower bark had been torn off. I was wrong; it was the tree workers who did it.

So, why was this dismaying?

First, the living part of the tree is directly below the protective bark layer. This “cambium” layer is where the plant transports nutrients up and down the stem; the bark protects this area. As well, plants don’t heal. So every spike insertion becomes a site for pest and disease. The ripped and torn bark and holes in the cambium and older interior layers will never heal.

Second, the cuts that were made to top the cherries and to “shape” the other trees were made at random points on the stems creating a “shape” to the tree. This may sound just fine. But it isn’t. When you understand that trees do not heal and when you learn that plants have specific points in their growth systems where they can protect themselves from the cuts we make, you better understand how and where to make pruning cuts. Clearly, these trimmers don’t know this. Or, worse, they do know and they just don’t care. Or even worse than that, maybe they do know what they’re doing and they hope that their sloppy work will stimulate new growth (through topping the cherries) and cause decline (through wearing spikes in the cypress) thereby creating more work calls from the client to them in years to come.

Third, really, spike holes and topped trees are just plain ugly.

This Tree was Topped Twice!

This Tree was Topped Twice!

When hiring a tree trimming service, be sure to find out what certifications the service holds. Ideally, hire an ISA-certified, licensed arborist. If the service offers to top your trees, that’s your signal to run away immediately. If they climb using anything other than ropes, saddles and ladders, don’t let them near your tree. Those spikes will cause damage from which your tree may never recover. Just think: you’d be paying to have your trees — your investment in plants — destroyed rather than cared for.

As this client learned the hard way, just because a service is cheap and immediately available doesn’t mean they’re good. In his situation, they sold him on price and convenience saying he’d save a lot if he let them do the work that day because they “had a truck in the neighborhood”.  In the long run, this kind of work saves a homeowner nothing and quite often costs them much more down the road.

Looking for more information on proper pruning and where to find a certified arborist in your area? Find more information here:

  • Plant Amnesty: This organization was formed to teach people to stop topping trees and offers loads of information as well as a referal service for finding trained arborists.
  • ISA: The International Society of Arboriculture provides information on trees, tree care and certification of arborists around the world. This is your go-to spot to find an arborist anywhere on planet earth.
  • Garden Mentors: Interested in learning hands-on about how trees grow and how to prune them yourself? Or, just want to learn how trees should be pruned so you better understand how to hire and manage a tree trimming service? Get in touch for a hands-on garden coaching session now.
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Arborist Katy on Wooly Adelgid Management in Mountain Hemlocks

Friday, April 10th, 2009

Tracy from Federal Way, WA writes:

“Our Mountain Hemlock has an Adelgid infestation. It is all over the middle tree but will probably spread to the others.

What do you suggest for treatment?

I have Neem oil and “Safer” insect killing soap. I also have some Fertilome products – Fungicide ornamental and evergreen spray though I don’t like what the warnings are on the label.

I am also thinking I should treat the other like trees in the back just in case.”

Katy took this question on and answers:

Interesting.

When I first moved to Seattle in 1997 I worked at the Seattle Arboretum,  and there was an employee who was always on about monitoring the Wooly adelgid and who was convinced it was bringing down the native Hemlock  (Tsuga heterophylla) population. Since that time I actually haven’t seen much of it around Bainbridge Island or Seattle.

I called Randall Hitchen, curator at the Arboretum to discuss this case. He was surprised to hear of the adelgid hitting the Mountain Hemlock enough that it was making a problem and so was I. Although we may have lost a bit of the touch for smaller urban gardens where you might only have that one tree, stare at it all the time and it actually makes a significant difference to the landscape whether it thrives or not (he works in a 214 acre garden, and I live on an acre of wooded land) both he and I agreed that adelgids usually don’t usually bring down this kind of Hemlock.

It led us muse about a couple things: How old are the trees? Is it causing severe defoliation or foliar problems or are they at an acceptable level for the client? Is there anything else stressing the trees out to make them more susceptible to an adelgid attack? Is the client ok with spraying? It might be that they actually need a one-time “good hygiene” spray. I was also interested to hear that other kinds of Hemlock (some other cultivars and ornamental type) really don’t tend to succumb to the adelgid.

Both he and I agreed that we wouldn’t go so far as recommending any kind of spray product. Not only do products often change names, we aren’t licensed applicators. Also one shouldn’t ever treat other nearby trees “just in case”. Not only is random spraying a waste of money, there is no sense introducing more pesticides or herbicides into your landscape (and neighborhood and drains and to the Puget Sound) if your trees really don’t need it. Just-in-case spraying is not like a human taking Airborne before taking a flight.

Finally, ask your applicator when you are supposed to spray for the problem you have. If the bug is dormant or at a stage in its lifecycle that won’t be affected by spray there is, again, no sense in spraying.

So that’s a lot of “don’ts” but do call a CPH, certified Arborist or someone identify if your other trees have a problem or not. Be an informed and savvy client who doesn’t knee-jerk into spending money on a spray that might not work. And finally, don’t worry! If your tree does succumb, you have other hemlock species options that you could put in its place if you just need that look in your garden. Good luck! Katy

(As Katy notes in her message above, for-fee pesticide applications and pesticide recommendations made in the state of Washington may only be made by licensed, registered pesticide applicators with active licenses. Yes, a homeowner can go buy anything off the shelf and do basically whatever s/he wants with it, but professionals can’t provide any such service legally without a license. Sure, we may know better even without a license, but we’re more regulated than homeowners who may try to apply a fungicide where a pesticide makes more sense or where nothing at all is required. But, that’s a post for another day. -Robin)

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Arborist Katy Writes About How to Properly Care for Balled and Burlapped Trees

Wednesday, March 25th, 2009
Burlap Removed & Roots Cleaned for Planting

Burlap Removed & Roots Cleaned for Planting

This weekend, my husband and I planted our 40th tree! Some have been bare root, a few in nice potted soil and some salvaged but most of them have come “balled and burlapped”. You too may have invested in some trees but what to do about the roots wrapped up like a present?

Regular readers of this blog will most likely be familiar with the concept that you want to remove most of that wire, fabric and twine before planting. In my book, removal of as much non-plant material surrounding the root ball is preferable. Plus, after all that disturbance I like to give the leftover roots a clean cut with sharp hand pruners to avoid unhealthy roots trying to heal while also trying to establish.

The obvious reason for taking all this stuff off is so roots won’t have any barriers to growing and establishing at the soil level they are planted. However, what you often don’t read about is the fact that roots growing around and around in hard clay or with the barrier of twine or burlap will start to become good candidates for becoming girdling roots. Worse, they will try to find any easy access to the nicer soil they’ve been planted in and grow up and over the original ball. Both of these situations will create less than ideal root situations.

Roots trying to escape their wire and burlap cages by growing up and over the top of the ball will often result in exposed surface roots growing above the level of the base of the trunk flare. Roots rising above this level can often be nicked by lawn trimmers or mowers, tripped over by people and pets and can’t be covered with mulch without covering the rest of the root zone too deeply.

This Trunk even Looks Like it Wore a Girdle!

This Trunk even Looks Like it Wore a Girdle!

Girdling roots are roots that have grown in a manner with the potential strangle tree (or shrub) parts in one way or another. When roots aren’t flared out or remain balled and burlaped they will actually continue to grow around in a circle for a very long time. As the roots enlarge and happen to be near to a trunk or other root they have the ability to strangle and impede the flow of nutrients. A even worse situation is a completely girdled trunk (see photo). As one who performs tree risk assessment, seeing this kind of abuse raises all kinds of red flags for the hazard this tree presents now and into the future, not insubstantial in this case considering the trees’ beachside location and purpose of buffering strong southerly winds. While this specimen seemed to be growing ok after the (extremely overkill) rope had been removed the trunk will always have this defect and remain the weakest part of the trunk, no matter how old it gets.

Give your new investment a fighting chance and unwrap those roots carefully and completely. Trust me, you’ll be glad you did.

Still confused? Get in touch to schedule a garden coaching session. We can help you unwrap your new tree and plant it to thrive!

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