I noticed yesterday that some of my fava bean cover crop sprouts survived the critter attack. Their little green stems are emerging. With the warm weather this weekend, I hope they get a good start, and I’m hoping I don’t need to replant afterall.
Archive for the ‘Uncategorized’ Category
Little Sprouts that Could
Saturday, September 27th, 2008
Grrr…Squirrels, Crows and Cats
Tuesday, September 23rd, 2008I’m cooking up a pot of fresh tomato soup to go with some multi-grain bread I just finished baking. Sounds delicious, right? I’m starving and can’t wait. Anyway, the soup recipe calls for fresh oregano, so I headed out to grab a few sprigs from the garden. Along the way I noticed destruction in my newly cleared, just-yesterday-fava-bean planted, needs-a-lota-love raised bed in front. Some critter has harvested many, if not all, of my fava sprouts. It looks like squirrels, but I’ve seen crows do the same thing. And, all of those critters are on the prowl for yummy dig-um-ups in the garden. So…tomorrow I replant. I saved some of the sprouts and will over-plant this time. Maybe, just maybe, the fall harvesters will miss a few. Yes, I could cover the beds, but really, that will probably only work with the crows. Squirrels (and dare I admit it? Rats) will just go under the covers or through them.
And why did I mention cats? Well, the little buggers are probably the next pest to decide this bed is their litter box. Sigh…well, a glass of wine before my soup and bread may be just the ticket for now. I really can’t replant until tomorrow…
Annual Veggie Gardening Whoops-Awards
Tuesday, August 5th, 2008A mistake many gardeners make is planting too close or putting tall plants in front of short plants. Its easy to get confused when you purchase plants that are all about the same size. If you don’t realize that plant A will eventually exceed plant B’s size, you might just put the big one in front of the small one. I see this happen quite often. Heck! I’ve even done it — this year by accident in my vegetable garden.
So, two mistakes I made this year:
Can you See the Tiny Tomato Below the Mass of Pineapple Sage?
Pineapple Sage Shadowing Tomatoes: In past years my Pineapple Sage hasn’t made it through the winter. I love it, so each year I put a new one in as an annual. It brings in the hummingbirds, and I adore the scent. This year it came up again, right in the middle of my tomato bed, blocking sun to a couple of tomato plants. Oops — wrong plant, wrong place. What to do? I’m going to thin the sage significantly for the growing season, and if I see it sprout up again next year, I’ll move it to a better garden location as my tomatoes tend to do their best in this bed.
Bush Beans Turned Pole Beans in Front of Bed - Oops!
Pole beans in the front of a bed: Usually I grow bush beans. I love pole beans and find their flavor usually exceeds the bush beans, but because of the shape of my beds, bush beans make a great small edging below lettuce/chard/beets that make a row just below tomatoes. Unfortunately some of the bush beans I put in this year decided that they’d like to climb. My dilemma is do I pull the beans or train them on poles? By training them up from their current location, they will likely shade my tomatoes from the western end-of-day sun, but so does the Acer triflorum on the other side of the patio, though its shading adds dappled light, not complete blockage. After consideirng the problem, I decided to train them and see what happens. Hopefully the tomatoes will get enough sun earlier in the day that this western blockage won’t cause them too much trouble! Plus, I have other tomatoes growing in the green house and on the East patio, so all will not be lost, regardless!
Bonide Tree Fruit Spray Question
Monday, July 14th, 2008W. Maalouf of Marshall, VA asks:
“We have a two year old fruit cherry tree orchard. I had business out of the country, so asked my 19 year son to be sure to spray the trees when I was gone because there were worms and the start of the Japanese Beatles. Anyway..I just got home and found out he sprayed Bonide Fruit Tree Spray straight without ANY dilution!!! The leaves of course are all brown now! Some still have a few green leaves and there are no sign of any bugs…but I am wondering if they are history or if we should try to do something to help the matter. Please advise ASAP! One day maybe he will actually read the directions! Thanks for your help….. ”
Well, the first thing I’d say is SCARY!
Bonide is a full-spectrum spray that attacks multiple “problems”, some of which you didn’t have. And, it doesn’t attack some of the things that you do mention having. So, if you were worried about “beatles and worms”, it may have been better to choose a method that would eradicate only those types of pests rather than something that also attacks fungus, scale, mites and other diseases. Even without doing the proper dilution, this product contained poisons that really weren’t necessary.
As I understand it, Bonide contains Captan, Sevin, Malathion and Methoxychlor. Here’s the label so you can read more yourself. Notice that it isn’t even used to control worms (by which I assume you mean caterpillers). Sevin kills bees, so you may have killed off your pollenation population. As well, it would have killed off any parasitic wasps that may have been living in your garden. These are natural predators to caterpillers, and it takes them much longer to repopulate than it does for caterpillers to repopulate, so your ecosystem may be out of balance now. You have also applied a product that kills mites. It is quite likely that your miticide also kills all spiders. Spiders are natural predators to Japanese Bettles. Again, the natural balance is put out of whack by this type of product. And, dare I remind you of the malathion scares and what this product does to humans?
Japanese Beetles are something I don’t deal with in Seattle. But, by doing a bit of reading, I learned that pheremone traps do exist for these buggers. This might be a better option next time. As well, for caterpillers, products like Bt might work for you. Bt is a bacterium that attacks only the caterpillers.
Since your son didn’t dilute the product and apply it according to manufacturer’s directions, anything in the product may have caused the dieback that you’ve seen. What killed the leaves on the trees may be just the “spreader-sticker” that adheres the product to the leaves. This could have suffocated the leaves. But, truly, I’m not sure what portion of the product attacked the plants themselves. Fortunately, this product doesn’t contain an herbicide. I suggest you contact the Bonide corporation to find out what happened.
Personally, I prefer to avoid this kind of product altogether and try to rebuild your natural ecosystem. You’ve applied organophosphates and organocholorides to your edible garden. I suggest you and your son take some time to really understand not only how to properly apply these in the future but what it really means to put them into your garden. My hope is that by having the opportunity to learn more, you will choose to take more eco-friendly steps to manage your orchard in the future.
Good luck & thanks for writing in!
Growing Your Own Food — A Growing Trend and How!
Wednesday, June 11th, 2008The NY Times reports: A growing number of Americans, driven by higher grocery costs and a stumbling economy, have taken up vegetable gardening or increased the size of their gardens.
I can tell you, I’m doing more intensive food gardening this year — for myself and with my clients! Really, even if you’re just getting started, there’s nothing more satisfying than bringing in dinner from the garden AND seeing the grocery bill number go down at the same time.
read more | digg story
Planting a Princess Tree…or not
Thursday, May 22nd, 2008J. Fullerton of St. James, MO writes, “I would like to plant the seed of a Princess Tree. Where can I get information on ‘how deep, where, and other information to make this a success’?”
Well Jim, I’ll start by saying that I haven’t grown a Princess Tree myself. As well, keep in mind that seed-grown means genetic diversity. If you plant your seed, you may not end up with an exact duplicate of the tree that you think is its parent.
And, since common names can refer to many different trees, I’m going to start out by saying that I’m talking about the Royal Paulownia or Paulownia tomentosa.
Please read up on on the invasive nature of this tree before you go any further: http://www.invasive.org/browse/subject.cfm?sub=2426
If you still feel it is necessary to plant your seed, I suggest you refer to The Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation for detailed information.
Garden Coach on Moving a Dormant Stewartia Tree, Part II
Thursday, March 27th, 2008
I know it’s taken me a lot of words in part I of this piece on moving trees to get to actually sharing a tree moving experience, but I do think it’s important to discuss why we might move a tree and the variety of caveots associated with tree placement and relocation. Sure, every situation will have a different set of rules applied to it, and I freely admit that I haven’t, and couldn’t possibly, address every tree and every scenario. However, here’s the steps a client and I took in late winter to move a small Stewartia that had been planted in the “wrong” location.
The Stewartia in question had actually been located into a garden bed, away from the house. In many scenarios, it was actually just fine where it was. However, my client needed (wanted) to put in a patio to make their garden more usable. And, the Stewartia was sited in the middle of the best spot for this patio. So, together, we decided to move it this winter before it leafed out but after the chance of a big freeze would limit its ability to root rapidly into its new location. (As I write this, I laugh, thinking of the freezing rain we had last night. Just enough frozen stuff to make me a little bit nervous.) My client had decided it was worth trying to save the tree rather than just cut it down and dispose of it.
To get ready for the job, we evaluated the tree, deciding which side would be the new “front” as it was going from a circular bed to a bed that would give a focal, “front” view to the tree. Then, we dug the new hole for the tree. We wanted the new location ready for the tree as soon as we got it out of the ground. We estimating how much rootball would come with the tree, based on how much rooting area we thought we could handle, and dug the new hole accordingly. To help ensure the heavy new tree wouldn’t sink when planted, we lightly tamped down the base of the new hole and made it quite wide. Then we went back to the tree to begin the process of moving it.
First, we made sure we had the right tools. These included several sharp shovels, several hori-hori knives, a large tarp, several ground shears and a ground saw. The hori-hori knives were to allow us hand digging; you could use your favorite hand tool/trowel if you prefer. The ground shears and saw are tools that I specifically only use underground. Once tools come in contact with soil, they tend to dull up pretty fast. I tend to use my older tools for these tasks, but I keep them sharp! Before we began digging, we cleaned and sterilized all the tools. We used a flame torch on some of the shovels and liquid lysol on all of the hand tools.
Then we began our work. We had a team of four. Three of us did most of the digging. The fourth came in to help with the final part of moving.
Two of the team used sharp shovels to begin digging a perimeter around the base of the tree. My rule of thumb on moving a tree is to “dig as big a root ball as you think you’ll be able to move”. Yes, that’s vague. If you’ve never moved a tree before, you might want to do it with a professional the first time! Once the main perimeter cuts were made with the shovels, we got in with hand tools and began a merry-go-round working our way around the perimeter. As one person dug, another would follow with sharp shears and saws to clean cut any large roots. Remember: the small “hairy roots” in the first 18″ of the soil are the feeder roots. You want a lot of these. The bigger roots are mostly scaffolding roots, which hold up the tree and give it stability and nutrient storage. Clean cuts on these are very important.
As we worked our way around and around the tree, it became apparent that the tree hadn’t been planted well in the first place. I wasn’t surprised. Based on the age of the tree, it should have been much larger than it was. When we found the original wire tree basket still attached to the tree roots, which had kinked around the metal, I knew this was part of the reason the tree’s growth was stunted. As well, nearly all of the scaffolding roots were growing on one side (the north side) the tree. So, we did what we could to remove the dangerous metal pieces as we dug.
Eventually, we had a good depth around the perimeter of the tree. Now, we had to cut it from the bottom. I knew we wouldn’t have much to deal with in scaffolding roots since they seemed to run more laterally than downward in this tree’s case. Gently, one of our team tipped the tree sideways as another cut the bottom of the tree.
Once the tree was seperated from the ground, we gently tipped the tree to one side and slipped a large tarp under it. We tipped the tree the opposite way and pulled the tarp through. Yes, easier said than done, but it is do-able with patience.
Then, with four people working on the tree, we pulled, tugged and pushed to get the tree on the tarp out of the hole. Again, easier said than done, but it is doable. And, again, don’t tug by the trunk or limbs of the tree.
With the tree out of the hole, we could now see the root ball in its entirety. One team member returned to the new location hole and dug some more to accomodate our large rootball. As he did this, I evaluated all the roots and corrected any torn ones by cutting them cleanly.
Then, we worked together to spin the tree, on the tarp, so we could drag it to the new hole and easily drop it into place. Yes, you’re right, “easier said than done”. But we did it. We took care not to smack each other with limbs. We laughed. One of us gave the “1-2-3-heave!” count, and away we went. Soon we had the tree in its new home.
We planted the tree in, taking care to bury it only as deep as it was planted originally. And, we put a hose on the new planting on a slow drip to water it in. (My client continued to do this for a few days to help supplement the light rains and give the tree a chance to root in well.) As the water ran, I trimmed out broken branches only. We’ll let the tree decide which limbs it wants to release this spring. There’s no need to try to trim it to match the top to the trimmed roots on the bottom. Also, we trimmed branches off a large tree beside this tree’s location. Eventually this larger tree will be removed as it is in the wrong place, but for now it is staying as we watch and see how the Stewartia takes root.
When we moved the Stewartia, its buds were beginning to swell, but they hadn’t opened. Much of the energy a deciduous tree uses to open spring buds is stored in the stem near the bud. So, the root system doesn’t get tapped much for this process. This is why sometimes a plant will bud out in spring only to die right after. Its stems had energy, but its roots did not in this case. (Again, I’m generalizing here.) Once the bud opens, the leaf begins photosynthesizing, feeding the plant. So far, several weeks later, the buds have opened and the tree seems to be doing well. My client and I look forward to seeing how the tree progresses into the spring. When the ground gets warmer, I’ll probably recommend a mycorhizzae application. For now, I just hope the ground doesn’t freeze!
Oh, and the patio space is filling in nicely. It has been excavated, and the crushed base material will be laid in this weekend.
Any questions?!
Garden Coach on Moving Trees & Transplanting Trees, Part I
Wednesday, March 26th, 2008Quite often my clients struggle with inherited gardens that include desirable plants that are just in the wrong location. What was once a small shrub near a foundation may have grown into a small tree that now encroaches on windows and building sidings becoming access paths for rats to rooftops. A random tree may be growing in the middle a lawn where its bark is suceptible to the wrath of the lawnmower. Really the list goes on. So the question becomes what to do about these issues?
In some cases inappropriate pruning has been the solution. More than once I’ve 
visited a new client with overgrown trees near foundations. Rather than know they have the power to move the tree to a new location, the client (or the client’s mow-blow-go gardener) whacks away at the tree trying to “make it smaller”. This, as any of my clients who have taken pruning lessons knows, results in more problems than solutions. Random whacking removes one limb, replacing it with countless others that are weaker than the original. It doesn’t solve the problem. The rats can still use the ladder. The roots of the tree can continue to hump against the foundation. Surrounding walkways continue to heave. Siding continues to be compromised. Again, what should be done?
Ideally, in the first place, the garden designer should have selected an appropriate plant for an appropriate place. Too often longterm plant growth (along with exposure requirements and more) are ignored by designers (or installers). Since we’re looking at situations where the problem is already in place, the ideal solution is to move the wrong plant to the right place.
Moving a tree can be a daunting task. They’re heavy. They’re alive. They’re fragile. Still, they’re movable. In some cases moving a tree means removing it altogether. If it’s been damaged significantly it may require more renovation work than you’re likely to perform. As well, it may never recover from past damage. If it is in a location where hardscape makes it impossible to remove the rootball, then realistically it won’t survive transplanting. However, if the tree is in decent shape and you have the right tools for the job, moving it to a new location is possible. Don’t have a new location for it yourself? Consider donating it on craigslist or to a local park instead. Remember, this is a living being that contributes to the overall well-being of the planet!
In some cases a tree is just too big to move by hand. But, if access is available, there are tree services that can safely and effectively move your tree for you. Companies like Washington-state-based Big Tree Supply specialize in supplying and moving big trees.
In other cases trees can be moved by hand using the right tools, enough people and doing it at the right time of year. In most cases the right time of year means moving a tree in winter, but late enough in the winter that the ground isn’t frozen. Deciduous trees are dormant this time of year. Evergreens are photosynthesizing, but their growth is significantly curtailed in winter. Yes, finding the balance between moving a plant while it is dormant but while the ground is not frozen can be tenuous. But it is possible. Too, it is possible to move trees after they break bud in spring, but it is harder on the plant.
If a tree is a late winter/early spring bloomer, finding the right time to transplant has another obstacle to overcome — flower buds. Flowering takes an enormous amount of energy from a plant. Too, it uses many of the same nutrients that the plant uses to maintain overall health and to establish new root growth. So, it may behoove you to move a late winter blooming tree, like a star magnolia, right after flowering but before the spring growth surge begins. If the tree is forming fruit, consider knocking them off to encourage the plant to focus its growth underground.
Now that you’ve read a variety of caveots around transplanting your tree, you must be anxious to actually find out how to make the move. Well, tune in soon for part two: Garden Coach on Moving a Dormant Stewartia Tree. I promise, it’s coming soon!
Garden Coach on Planting for Year-round color
Friday, February 1st, 2008Regularly I contribute gardening articles for publication on WSNLA.org and KPLU.org websites. This month the topic is gardening for year-round color. Read more about adding year-round interest to your garden here. In this article I’ve shared everything from observing gardener behavior and those behavior’s garden results to how to add specific colors and fragrances to the garden. Enjoy!
Gardening with Colors in the Snow
Monday, January 28th, 2008
This winter I’m acutely aware of plants that are providing winter interest through berries, blooms, fragrance, colorful foliage and interesting texture. Many clients keep talking about how boring their gardens are when everything is “dead”. I remind them that most isn’t truly dead but instead is growing actively underground. This provides them some relief that they didn’t kill their garden. 
But, what provides the biggest thrill to them (and to me) is pointing out the opportunities to make sure their garden is interesting even when other gardens appear dead.
Today I woke up to a light blanket of snow in my garden. Before the melt began, I got out and snapped a couple of photos illustrating the beautiful plants that offer spectacular winter visual interest even on a snowy late January day. (Not to mention the great fragrance put out by the Witch Hazel!)
Enjoy!
