Finally! Summer has arrived in Western Washington. And, although it has been a cool, wet spring and summer so far, believe it or not, your soil may not be all that moist below the surface. Best way to tell if you need to water yet? Stick your finger in the ground. There’s no calender or clock that’s a better at telling you it’s time to water. Touch makes the best sense. So, get out there. Stick your finger in the ground. It’s okay. Dirt washes off with a little soap and water. You and your plants will be glad you checked. Still not sure what to do once you determine whether your root zones are too dry or you see mildew forming on leaves or slime in your water feature? Read on for more ways to help your garden beat the summer heat:
Archive for the ‘seasons’ Category
How To Help Your Garden Beat the Heat
Wednesday, July 7th, 2010
Garden Coach on Why to Love December 22nd
Tuesday, December 22nd, 2009It’s kind of hard to believe that a gray, cold day like today — December 22nd — is one I’m going to say good things about.
Snoqualmie Falls in Wintery Glory
So many of us are overwhelmed with holiday this & that — getting ready for Giftmas as one my friends so aptly re-christened Christmas, struggling with frozen forms of water trapping us indoors and bringing on the cabin fever crazies, and just trying to stay positive despite the seasonal blues. Still, though we truly embark on winter today, we are also over the hump and on our way to spring and summer.
I may be waxing romantic as I rejoice in today’s 7:56am sunrise and 4:21pm sunset, which in theory will provide me with one whole minute of additional sun than I enjoyed yesterday when the sun rose at 7:55am (also setting at 4:21pm). But that really is one minute closer to the long days we get to enjoy at summer solstice when the sun will rise at 5:21am and set at 9:11pm.
The First of Many Cabbages from My 2009 Veggie Garden
We may have the long, icy road of winter ahead before we reach the time when day lengths significantly increase, warming our garden soils and super-charging plant growth. But, one minute at a time we’ll get there — starting today. And, rather than sit around, wallowing in the blues that these short, monotone days can induce, I encourage you to take a hike, enjoy the beauty, soak up what sunshine you can find, throw a snowball, and when you get home to warm yourself by the fire, grab a seed catalog and plan next year’s garden. Remember — seeding time is just around the corner!
Not sure what to start when? If you’re planning veggies from seed in Seattle, odds are you’ll want to start planting some seed as early as January. The cabbages I seeded in 2009 in January were ready for harvest by early June (and continued to feed us for most of the summer). Need help planning your own vegetable garden? Get in touch now to schedule your garden coaching session for winter, which is the best time to plan. Having your gardening program in place before spring will give you more time to enjoy your 2010 garden spaces and delicious harvests, too.
Is Your Garden Ready for a Freeze?
Friday, November 13th, 2009The cold wind blowing and the churning furnace pouring out warm air woke me early this November morning. Rain is hammering out of the sky, blown in circles by heavy winds near the planet surface driving it noisily into window panes.
Frozen Branches
And, weather reporters are warning snow may follow the morning downpours. Although I doubt we’ll see snow in the city, these reports — coupled with the ice we’re seeing on early-morning windshields — reminds me to get a few last minute freeze-proofing chores done this morning.
Hopefully, these tips will help you get ready as well. Who knows? Now that I said I doubt it will snow, it probably will send down a few flurries around town just to prove me wrong. (more…)
Why I’m Happy When My Katsura Turns Brown
Wednesday, October 7th, 2009This morning, looking out the kitchen window at a stunning pink sunrise, my eye was torn between the beauty of said sunrise and the flashing brilliance of my sunshine-yellow Katsura. It reminded me to share this post again, singing the praises of this beautiful and surprisingly fragrant tree, the Katsura.
If you’re interested in adding a Katsura to your garden, keep in mind that they do need supplemental water in the summer, particularly in their early years. They’ll stand up to hot, full sun locations. But, also remember, this is not a small tree. They get big! Often I see them planted in parking strips, too close together, or under power lines. Unfortunately, what may appear to be a small, delicate tree will evolve into a giant in no time. Give these beauties room to stretch out and really show their stuff. (Note: there are cultivars that form wide, but weeping canopies. These won’t get as tall as the species, but they aren’t tiny either.)
The following is from an original post dated October 16, 2008:
Katsura Yellowing in October
Those of you familiar with the Katsura tree (Cercidiphyllum japonicum) already know the answer, but until you know this tree’s autumn secret you’re bound to love it anyway. Katsura trees have ruffled heart shape leaves, diverse form, and furrowed grey bark. Their fall color may range from clear yellow to deeper tones of yellow and orange. If you’re really lucky it may even have a strawberry pink tone. But this tree’s most fantastic aspect happens when the leaves finally detatch from the stem and fall to the ground. Sure, you’re then looking at bare stems for winter and brown piles of leaves to rake up. But did you notice the fragrance of burnt sugar or cotton candy wafting in the air?
The Katsura tree’s final farewell to summer comes in doses of country fair or candy factory fragrance. The brown leaves on the ground, mingling with moist fall soil, fills the air with a spectacular, surprising, sugary treat that I have yet to find in another tree. As much as I adore the astringent scent of rosemary, the dusty aroma of sage and the peanut-buttery goodness of a glorybower, there’s nothing that makes my nose happier than the brown, crunchy leaves from my Katsura.
Caring for Ornamental Grasses in Seattle
Wednesday, September 23rd, 2009
'The Blues' Schizachyrium with Lambs Ear
Autumn is probably my favorite time of year to really enjoy ornamental grasses. And, by grasses I don’t mean lawn. I do mean ornamental grasses and grass-like plants such as sedges and rushes. Plants like blood grass are brilliant red and showy at this time. Seed heads on Miscanthus are shining and flowing in the breeze (and frost). Little tufts on bunny grasses hop along at the edges of borders. And, hairy carex shimmers, promising interest into the winter ahead.
Well, it promises interest if cared for properly. Too often, all ornamental grasses are treated the same by unknowning humans with scissoring tools in hand. This can cause permanent damage. So to help you wade your way through your grasses, here are some general guidelines. Of course, in each genus there may be exceptions to the rule, but these tips should help you avoid the big mistakes.
- True Grasses:
Miscanthus Seed Head Adorned with First Snow
True grasses have “elbows” or “joints” where the leaves run down the stems to the ground. They may be clumpers or spreaders, and they do well when cut down at the end of the season. What you define as “the end of the season” is your call. If you enjoy looking at seed heads swaying in the autumn sunlight, then you might wait until after a frost or until mid-winter to cut the plants down. If you are concerned about the plants spreading in the garden after forming and spreading their seed all winter, then you might cut them down earlier. Grasses like blood grass are easy to snip at individually to remove. Clumps of bunny grass are tight and with a sheet underneath are easy to shear and then pluck out brown old growth. Tall grasses like Miscanthus are best bundled tightly with string and then cut a few inches above the ground but below the tie. This way the bundle comes away in one bunch. Take care, these plants may have sharp edges.
- Sedges: Sedges have edges and no elbows. They are often mop-like and spreading. Generally, their seed heads aren’t showy.
Carex testacea intermingling with Euphorbia
They do not take kindly to being cut hard. Some will die back for winter. Most ornamental Carex, however, is an evergreen plant that should be combed and very lightly trimmed once or twice a year. I tend to comb mine out in mid-summer and again in fall or winter. After I comb out all the dead and stringy growth and remove any dead clumps, I then bundle the plant in my hands and trim off the dead ends, which should be around 2″ or so of the very tips. Its like giving the plant a little bob haircut. If the plant has been neglected for a long time, the center may be dieing out. In these cases, I dig out the plant to divide it and reinvigorate growth.
- Rushes: Honestly, I don’t do much with rushes. If they have dead growth, I remove those shoots to the ground. That’s about it.
Carex flagellifera with Lambs Ear
This is basic primer barely skims the surface of ornamental grass care. There are many, many more grasses to choose from and care for. Some are weedier than others. Some are sharper and harder to care for than others. And, many are just plain wonderful and not to be missed for their fantastic, unique forms, textures and colors they add to to the garden. If you aren’t sure which kind of grass plant you have or if you have one that isn’t specifically mentioned here, get in touch for a coaching session for hands on plant care training and identification sessions. Or consider picking up a copy of one of my favorite grass books such as Grasses:Versatile Partners for Uncommon Garden Design
(This topic was originally published in October 2008 and updated in September 2009.)
