Archive for the ‘Pruning’ Category

Fall in Spring

Monday, February 22nd, 2010

Actually, right now it isn’t technically either spring or fall. It’s still winter, but you’d hardly know it given the brilliant sunshine, warm(ish) temps and budding trees throughout Seattle.

Sword Fern in May Looks Great After an Early Spring Trim

Sword Fern in May Looks Great After an Early Spring Trim

It really feels like spring — even with light frosts sparkling in the early morning sunshine. This kind of weather reminds me to get out and get the garden tidied up ahead of the already arriving spring growth surge.

Over the weekend, I raked up leaves left over winter to protect beds. Getting them up now means less happy slug habitat this spring. I dug and divided hosts, cut back sword fern and epimedium, thinned sedums overtaking patio edges, and I pruned – a lot.

My neighbor invited me to proceed thinning and limbing up a large tree in the northwest corner of her lot. Over the years it was 1) topped about 9 or so years ago and 2) it has been neglected since then. It is a broadleaf evergreen and it has been blocking more and more light into my garden over the years; it overshadows my Southwest corner. So, with freshly sterilized saw and shears in hand, I embarked on removing the dead and broken material on its interior. I thinned multiple leaders that had shot out from prior year topping. In the end, the tree looks like a tree again rather than an overgrown shrub. Light and air are able to pass through its interior, which not only helps my garden but will improve the tree’s health over time. Sadly, my health took a hit when I mis-stepped and took a nasty tumble.

Nope, I didn’t even have a ladder out when I fell. Maybe I was rushing. Maybe I wasn’t really paying enough attention. It all happened so fast, I’m not even sure exactly what happened. One minute I was stepping backward; the next my foot landed wrong on the slight slope, my ankle and knee twisted. I threw my open hand saw away from me and landed hip down on my pocketed hori-hori knife and my holstered hand shears. Today I have some fairly specific bruises relating to those hits. I managed not to break anything or even hit the nearby sidewalk. I’m not sure how I missed it; I definitely tumbled beyond it. And, really, I feel pretty darn lucky that a few sore muscles, a couple of bruises, and some twisted joints are all I’ve got to worry about on the day after.

Pruning can be dangerous. The tools themselves can be a hazard — saws, sharp shears, loppers, even chain saws are often involved. Ladders may seem like passive tools, but I’ve heard any number of stories about careful professionals making a mistake and paying for it with a ladder fall. And, then there’s the reality that we can get hurt for no good reason. A simple misstep can just happen. A loose rock can twist our ankles. A weak branch can give way before we think it should. Life happens in the garden. And, yesterday’s fall was a reminder to slow down, pay more attention, and just take care while working on anything in the garden.

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Why Not to Hire a Tree Trimmer Who Wears Spikes

Thursday, May 21st, 2009

Yesterday I met with a new client in Seattle. As I walked up to his home, I immediately noticed three Cherry trees in the front parking strip had been topped recently. However, it wasn’t until I was reviewing the back garden that I saw the worst of the tree trimming horrors his garden had sustained. Not only had he hired a crew that was willing to top his trees, but they climbed a cypress in his backyard wearing climbing spikes, which damaged the bark and cambium layer of the tree terribly. When I saw the spiked trunk, at first I thought someone had hit the base of the tree with a car because so much of the lower bark had been torn off. I was wrong; it was the tree workers who did it.

So, why was this dismaying?

First, the living part of the tree is directly below the protective bark layer. This “cambium” layer is where the plant transports nutrients up and down the stem; the bark protects this area. As well, plants don’t heal. So every spike insertion becomes a site for pest and disease. The ripped and torn bark and holes in the cambium and older interior layers will never heal.

Second, the cuts that were made to top the cherries and to “shape” the other trees were made at random points on the stems creating a “shape” to the tree. This may sound just fine. But it isn’t. When you understand that trees do not heal and when you learn that plants have specific points in their growth systems where they can protect themselves from the cuts we make, you better understand how and where to make pruning cuts. Clearly, these trimmers don’t know this. Or, worse, they do know and they just don’t care. Or even worse than that, maybe they do know what they’re doing and they hope that their sloppy work will stimulate new growth (through topping the cherries) and cause decline (through wearing spikes in the cypress) thereby creating more work calls from the client to them in years to come.

Third, really, spike holes and topped trees are just plain ugly.

This Tree was Topped Twice!

This Tree was Topped Twice!

When hiring a tree trimming service, be sure to find out what certifications the service holds. Ideally, hire an ISA-certified, licensed arborist. If the service offers to top your trees, that’s your signal to run away immediately. If they climb using anything other than ropes, saddles and ladders, don’t let them near your tree. Those spikes will cause damage from which your tree may never recover. Just think: you’d be paying to have your trees — your investment in plants — destroyed rather than cared for.

As this client learned the hard way, just because a service is cheap and immediately available doesn’t mean they’re good. In his situation, they sold him on price and convenience saying he’d save a lot if he let them do the work that day because they “had a truck in the neighborhood”.  In the long run, this kind of work saves a homeowner nothing and quite often costs them much more down the road.

Looking for more information on proper pruning and where to find a certified arborist in your area? Find more information here:

  • Plant Amnesty: This organization was formed to teach people to stop topping trees and offers loads of information as well as a referal service for finding trained arborists.
  • ISA: The International Society of Arboriculture provides information on trees, tree care and certification of arborists around the world. This is your go-to spot to find an arborist anywhere on planet earth.
  • Garden Mentors: Interested in learning hands-on about how trees grow and how to prune them yourself? Or, just want to learn how trees should be pruned so you better understand how to hire and manage a tree trimming service? Get in touch for a hands-on garden coaching session now.
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When to Prune a Strawberry Tree?

Thursday, February 12th, 2009

Kathy from Browns Point, WA asks:

When can I trim my stawberry trees, to grow wider?”

Arbutus unedo Blooming in November

Arbutus unedo Blooming in November

By Strawberry Tree, I’m going to assume you’re referring to Arbutus unedo. Several plants have the common name Straweberry Bush or Strawberry Tree, so we’ll go with the Arbutus for this answer.

The Arbutus unedo is a cousin of our Pacific Madrone Tree (Arbutus menziesii), and it is a beautiful shrub or tree offering reddish peeling bark, evergreen leaves, and a confusing habit of blooming and ripening fruit all at the same time. This makes pruning a little tricky.

Since A. unedo blooms and forms beautiful ripe fruits in early autumn, it’s tough to time pruning. First, pruning in late fall, right after blooming and fruiting, can cause the plant to put on a lot of new growth just as we go into the cold season, which can cause it to experience dieback on areas of growth that didn’t have time in the season to harden off for winter. Second, if we prune it in Spring, as we head into the growth surge time, which would encourage new growth and perhaps meet your desire to “widen” the plant, you risk removing the fruit that is forming from last year’s blooms. And, if you wait until late spring/summer, you again risk removing fruit as well as the flowers forming to bloom in fall. So, there’s no ideal time here.

I’m not sure what you’re hoping to achieve in terms of widening the plant. I hope you don’t intend to top it/shear it. That would ruin it’s fantastic natural form and beauty. Instead, it should be pruned like a tree. Start by getting in to clear out the dead, crossing/rubbing branches. Then selectively make cuts to encourage new growth. Since I can’t see the plant and evaluate the circumstances, I hesitate to try to provide anything more than that.  When you cut is going to be based your needs. If you want it to put on a lot of new growth, probably late winter/early spring is your best bet, but you do run the risk of having a low fruiting/flowering season in the fall.

If you would like to set up an appointment to review this plant together, please get in touch. And, thanks for writing in!

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When and How to Prune a Pear to Reduce Suckering

Friday, February 6th, 2009

Sarah from Shoreline, WA writes:

“My pear tree (unknown variety, pears are yellow) suckers like mad. I pruned last year in Feb. Should I be pruning in late summer instead? Thanks, Sarah

Sarah, it’s difficult for me to answer your question without seeing the tree to understand its care history. But, here are some thoughts for anyone considering when to prune a pear tree:

  • Improper pruning, random cuts, and over-pruning are the usual culprits I see that cause heavy suckering.
  • That being said, some trees will sucker as a reaction to any type of pruning (or just because its the nature of the tree regardless of cutting). You remove a branch and the plant redirects energy toward other areas and produces more branches.
  • If you know how to prune properly, and your tree is in good shape, doing some pruning in summer, rather than winter (or in addition to winter) can help reduce heavy reaction growth. By mid-summer plant growth is slowing for the season, and the tree is less likely to put on a lot of new growth. Where in spring, that’s when it goes through a growth surge — whether pruned or not.
  • It is critical, whatever time of year you prune, that you make proper cuts and never top your tree.
  • Do keep in mind that if you prune late in the season, your tree can still put on new growth, even as it is slowing for the season. If it puts on succulent new growth late in the season and doesn’t have time to harden this growth off before a freeze, you can end up with freeze damage, particularly on the new growth.

Thanks for writing in Sarah. I hope this helps.

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Can a Snow and Ice Damaged Shrub be Salvaged?

Thursday, February 5th, 2009

Paula from Vashon Island, WA writes:

I have a large Ceonothus that tipped over completely, downslope, after the December snow and ice storms. Several roots were damaged or destroyed. I have no clue how to right the shrub – it’s huge – or if I could prune it severely in order to handle it. Thank you.

Paula, your Ceanothus is not alone in sustaining this kind of damage this year. I’ve seen several that took a beating in our winter storms. Not only are they evergreens, which collect snow & ice loads readily, but they tend to be shallow rooted and oft-times weak-rooted. That combo leads to the kind of damage you’re talking about.

Since I can’t see the shrub, I’m not sure how badly damaged yours is. What I can tell you is that I have seen at least one that I believe will be salvaged with some temporary staking support. I don’t like to see shrubs and trees staked unless absolutely necessary. Too much staking, and they have no incentive to root in and hold themselves up. Instead, they may be lazy and rely on the stake to keep them in place. That said, a temporary crutch can be helpful.

So, you may try staking the the tree. Install ties that are flexible and won’t rub the bark. Install ties as low as possible on the trunk so the plant’s crown can move. And, be sure to check the stakes and ties regularly, adjusting positions as needed so that the shrub doesn’t grow over the ties. And, be sure to remove the ties altogether as soon as the plant has rooted itself in.

More great information on caring for trees and shrubs:

Lastly, you asked if you could prune the shrub severely to manage it. Probably not. Ceanothus is a woody, tree-like plant that should be managed as a tree. If you have broken or dead branches, taking those out is fine. But chopping hard on the shrub isn’t likely to restore it or, for that matter, create a good looking tree at all.

Thanks for writing in Paula!

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