Archive for the ‘pollenators’ Category

Why are Bees Disappearing & What Can We Do to Help Their Populations?

Friday, November 7th, 2008
Danty Heuchera is a Tasty Treat

Danty Heuchera is a Tasty Treat

Anyone in tune with popular media has heard that bee populations are dieing out and have been in decline for several years. In my own very diverse garden I’ve noticed a huge decline in honeybees. I use no pesticides, and I provide a diverse array of food sources for all bees. Still, this year my carpet of blooming thyme is visited by just a few bees at a time and the usual incessant buzz is nearly silent this year. Despite knowing that the bees are in decline, most still wonder why this is happening. There are several theories to choose from. I’m sure there are more theories than those I’ll discuss, and I look forward to learning more from your input into this discussion.

Colony collapse disorder is the term used to describe the losses where suddenly all of the worker bees just take off, abandoning the hive – baby bees and all. But why and where are they collapsing to?

  • Dead beat dads: Some will say the bees are just stressed out and can’t take it – kind of like a deadbeat dad that hits the road. But all the dads leaving all at once?
  • A fungus among us: When adult bees are infected with disease, such as gut fungi, they will fly away to die alone in order to save the hive. The question is, why is the entire hive flying away rather than just one bee at a time?
  • Vampire attacks: Yes, I said it. Vampires, well vampire-like mites that suck the life out of a bee are infecting hives. But these have been around for 30+ years in the U.S. and predate the huge population declines we’re now seeing.
  • A Pesticide by any other name is still a pest: Sevin, aka Carbaryl, is out there, and it is killing bees. It’s actually been killing bees since it was introduced in 1958. Maybe it’s reached levels that are contributing to colony collapse disorder, maybe not. And, yes, there are other pesticides that kill bees.
  • Flowers aren’t as fragrant as they used to be: Earlier this year a UVA study introduced a new theory – that pollution is contributing to reduced fragrance paths for the bees to follow. So, if the bees are confused or just can’t find food near their home, maybe they’re hitting to road to a new location where they can find food?
Resting in the Campanula

Resting in the Campanula

Well, if the scientists dedicated to this problem haven’t figured out why the beehives are collapsing and why the bee populations are in serious decline then certainly I can’t give you the answer. Still, what I can do is give you some ideas to help us work together to repopulate our bee communities:

  • Take up bee keeping: If you live in an outlying area, think about starting up hives of your own. You’ll bring in bee populations, have a wonderfully pollinated garden, be able to study how the hive performs and have honey galore from your own local source.
  • Leave off the pesticides: Practice integrated pest management (IPM) and think before you apply a chemical to your home or garden. Products like Sevin are sold as harmless despite continued research exposing them as toxic to humans. And, read the labels on all pesticides. Trade names may change despite keeping ingredients the same. Sevin is, after all, Carbaryl in sheep’s clothing. Oh, and one more note on these pesticides. Realize that when you kill off predators like wasps, hornets and yellow jackets, you are disturbing natural ecosystems. The beneficial predators (aka wasps, etc.) take longer to repopulate than the pests (aphids, cabbage loopers, tent caterpillars, etc..). Once you’re out of balance; it can be hard to get back into balance.
  • Plant diversity: By providing a wide array of blooming plant materials you will give the beneficial insects the food sources they need to keep their populations high and our gardens blooming for generations to come. Remember: If the bees aren’t here to pollinate the flowers, then our plants die. If our plants die, so will we.
Kent Beauty Oregano Visited By Honeybee

Kent Beauty Oregano Visited By Honeybee

Following are some great plants and planting ideas to incorporate in your garden for the bees:

  • Fruit trees: These bloom early in spring as the orchard mason bees come out briefly. Orchard mason bees are non-aggressive, small black bees that love orchard fruits. It’s not unlikely for you to miss them during their brief active cycle in spring.
  • Herbs: Bumble bees and honeybees alike love herbs like thyme, oregano, rosemary, lavender and sage. Hey, and the hummingbirds love lavender and sage too!
  • Berries: Again, the bumblers and the honeybees vie for the chance to spread pollen from one blueberry to another. And raspberries? Well, I’m glad they all get pollinated and then set fruit. Ahead of fruit set, my canes are a-buzz for weeks!
  • Fruiting vegetables: I call them fruiting vegetables because I’m encouraging you to plant tomatoes, eggplants, squash, cucumbers, green beans, peppers and peas. These plants provide their fruit for us to eat – despite the fact that we call their fruit a vegetable! Bring in the food crops and bring in the honeybees.
  • Vegetative vegetables: These are the ones that produce leafy, stalky food that we love like cabbage heads and unbloomed broccoli bunches. And what if you get a cabbage looper worm? Well, if you’ve got parasitic wasps and yellow jackets cruising the garden, they’ll snatch’m up or lay an egg in them faster than the green crawly can fatten up. And, if you’ve got a chicken, robin, or house finch pecking around, she’ll thank you for the tasty snacks you brought home for them.

Hopefully, you’ve gotten the message that by providing a natural, pesticide-free habitat for bees and birds, particularly by planting edibles for yourself, you have the opportunity to create a complete ecosystem. The bees pollinate the plants. The wasps parasitize the pests. The birds pollinate the flowers and eat the pests. And you? Well, you benefit from a healthy planet and a garden that feeds you organically and locally.

For additional reading:

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Growing Eggplant with Success in Seattle

Friday, September 5th, 2008

The 2008 vegetable gardening year has been full of surprises. I can’t seem to get a decent tomato, snow peas produced from April until mid-August, bush beans turned into climbing beans, green beans produced yellow wax beans, brussel sprouts turned into cabbage, and the list goes on. What to remember? Every year is different and just because a nursery label or seed packet promises green bush beans or brussel sprouts doesn’t mean you’ll get those in the end.

Eggplant Flowering and Setting Fruit

Eggplant Flowering and Setting Fruit

One of the positive surprises (and don’t get me wrong by my rant above, I had lots of success amid some strange and dissapointing happenings) was producing decent globe eggplant. I bought tiny starts at the Tilth edible sale earlier in the year. They were so small I was afraid they’d succum to fungal infections in my little greenhouse during the cool spring, and I refuse to apply fungicide, so it was sink or swim baby. They plugged along with a bit of TLC, and I potted them up to 1 gallons in early June and 4 gallons by July.

In late July they started blooming; I hadn’t taken them out of the greenhouse. The weather was just too cold for these heat lovers. I had noticed that my pollenators were few and far between in the greenhouse, so I bought a cheap eye shadow brush and used it to hand pollenate my eggplant flowers. And, it worked!

By mid-August the weather did heat up, briefly, and I moved the plants into a hot sunny location. And, they continued to thrive. I stopped the hand pollenating and relied on the birds and the bees to do their work, and it seems they did. More fruit formed.

Maturing Eggplant

Maturing Eggplant

Then the weather turned cool and rainy again, and a slew of flowers died on the branch. One fruit gave up the ghost to a fungal infection, but I removed it before the rest of the plant was infected, and I returned the plants to the greenhouse while the weather was cool.

The weather has warmed again for at least this week, so the plants are again in the garden where they seem to do better (assuming the weather cooperates) than in the greenhouse. (I admit this greenhouse thing is tricky in a summer like we’re having).

Last night I harvested two of the largest fruit from these plants and made the pasta sauce that follows. I used roma tomatoes that a friend gave me from her garden, garlic from Summer Run farms, paneer from Appel farms, and basil from my greenhouse. The result was delicious. When the little eggplants now ripening come in, I’ll have to make it again!

Roasted Summer Vegie Pasta Sauce

Ingredients:

  • 2-3 small eggplants roasted whole over coals or in oven until soft
  • 12-14 roma tomatoes, seeded, tossed in olive oil, salt & sugar and slow roasted in warm oven for 2-3 hours (make a lot of these; they’re amazing & you’ll never have enough)
  • 1 bulb garlic, roasted until soft
  • 1/4 lb paneer cheese cubed, tossed in olive oil & roasted in oven for 15 minutes to brown.
  • Olive oil
  • 1/2 fresh tomato, seeded and chopped
  • 1 fresh garlic clove, minced
  • 1/2 cup fresh chopped basil
  • 1 cup chicken or vegetable broth
  • 1/4 cup half & half or cream (optional)
  • grated parmesan cheese
  • cooked linguini or other wide ribbon pasta; tossed with 1 Tbs butter (optional)

Heat olive oil in wide pan over medium heat. Add fresh minced garlic and saute briefly. Add chopped fresh tomatoes.  Peel the roasted eggplant and chop into small cubes. (It may turn to mush, but it’ll be tasty anyway). Add to tomato mixture. Squeeze pulp from 4-6 roasted garlic cloves & add to pan. Saute briefly to mix flavors. Add chicken broth and turn heat to low. Let simmer for several minutes.

Add roasted paneer to mixture and simmer a few more minutes. Stir in fresh basil and cream. Stir until warm.

Toss together with buttered pasta. Scoop into bowls and top with chopped roasted tomato and parmesan cheese.

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Growing Tomatoes in Seattle with Success!

Thursday, July 31st, 2008

Anyone who gardens in Seattle knows that tomatoes can be difficult to cultivate successfully. I’ve lived in the South East and the South West of the US, and in those long, hot summers there’s no stopping the bounty of ripening tomatoes all summer long. As I’ve come to understand that Seattle summers are late to start and sometimes quick to finish and always variable, I’ve experimented with tomatoes — sometimes successfully and sometimes not.

One of the first things I’ve learned is that putting out tomato plants early usually means the plants will fail or flounder at the very least. Since our temperatures fluxuate so much in late spring and early summer, tomatoes just aren’t happy in the ground until quite a bit later than many other places. Many think of mother’s day as a good “rule of thumb” marker for getting things into the garden. I like to go a bit later with tomato starts and aim for mid-June. Just to be clear, this is when I put good-sized start plants into the garden. It is not the time to start seeds in the ground.

Because I just can’t wait to get tomatoes in summer, I do like to cultivate my starts earlier than June. I’ve had great luck putting starts into the ground in my hoop house where the plastic covering keeps the plants protected and warm. When I’ve had access to a green house, I’ve kept my plants there, potting them up every few weeks until I take them outdoors to a protected location for a week or so before putting them into the ground. (I don’t want to move them straight from the warm, hot greenhouse to the ground. I put them outside for a bit on my protected, somewhat warm west-facing front porch to “harden them off”…aka get them ready to be in the garden dealing with nature.)

This year I put up a small, inexpensive plastic-covered green house on my back patio. It has allowed me to do quite a few things that I never have before. This includes harvesting a very large slicing tomato in mid-July!

Early Girl Tomato Blooming in May 2008

Early Girl Tomato Blooming in May 2008

In April I purchased one of the first 4″ Early Girl tomato starts I saw on the market. I immediately potted it up into a 1 gallon container and grew it in that for about a month. Then, in May, I potted it into a 5 gallon container into which I inserted a small tomato cage. By April, the tomato had begun blooming and it was warm enough that I kept my greenhouse door open most of the time (some nights I did zipper it shut if it was going to get cold). The pollenators began zooming into the greenhouse (along with slugs and other annoying pests), and by June I had several green tomatoes on my Early Girl (as well as a few other tomato plants I’d since added to the greenhouse.)

Early Girl Green Tomato June 2008

Early Girl Green Tomato June 2008

The other tomatoes I’d added include a favorite easy-ripener for Seattle called ‘Stupice’, a couple of determinate Romas called ‘Bellstar’, a patio whose name I don’t recall, another called ‘Fullness’, an insane indeterminate called ‘Moskovich’  and an odd-ball just for fun called ‘Black Krim’.  I picked all but the patio up at the Tilth Edible Sale earlier this spring.

I moved the patio tomato onto the patio in June, and it is filled with miniature beefsteak shaped tomatoes that are starting to ripen as of the end of July. I moved one ‘Stupice’, ‘Fullness’ and a ‘Bellstar’ into my beds in mid-June, which it seems still shocked them a bit this year. They are flowering like mad, but it seems with my reduced pollenators this year that fruit-set is a little slow on all but the ‘Stupice’, which has some ripening fruit as of the end of July.  The ‘Bellstar’ in the garden is mostly full of flowers and has yet to form fruit. Black Krim is starting to set fruit, but it isn’t doing much. The Moskovich was in the greenhouse doing nothing but putting on green growth, despite the reduced Nitrogen diet I provided. I moved it out of the greenhouse this weekend and staked it and cut it back hard. We’ll see what happens.

Early Girl Ready to Harvest Mid-July 2008

Early Girl Ready to Harvest Mid-July 2008

So, what’s next? Well, I’ll be bringing in tomatoes regularly from my patio and my stupice in the next few days. Early Girl looks to start ripening more fruit too soon. She is definitely a charm, and I will grow her again and again in years to come (in the greenhouse). You see, she gave me this enormous tomato two weeks ago — mid-July, which is, in my experience, rare in Seattle.

Oh, and one last note…my ‘Red Robin’ cherry that I grew indoors last winter continues to fruit and flower in the greenhouse. I cut it back hard and fed it bone meal, which seems to have really re-invigorated it. The plant is a year old now and has some tough woody stems. I hope to keep it going indoors again this winter…along with a few companions so I can harvest more than I did last winter.

And, just to get a little ahead of myself so you have this tip handy as your tomatoes fill up with lots of blooms and then green fruit that seems like it will never ripen here are some tips to force the fruit to ripen for you:

  • Don’t use a lot of nitrogen fertilizer after the plants start setting fruit. The nitrogen will encourage more green growth and may reduce the fruiting and flowering. (That being said, they do need some nitrogen.)
  • Cut out side shoots regularly, especially on indeterminates. This will encourage just a few shoots that will focus on flowering and fruiting.
  • Cut out every other set of flowers, especially on indeterminates, after you pass summer solstice. Tomatoes will try to grow as though they can survive our winters. We need to help them curtail their enthusiasm if we want to harvest their fruit. Reducing blooms will help the plant focus on fewer blooms turning into more fruit for you.
  • After fruit is set, start cutting back on water and by late August/early September start cutting back the tips of the plants (to a node) and cut out all the new flowers. It is unlikely (except on cherries) that flowers formed in August/September will ever give you fruit. They draw energy from the plant and discourage the existing fruit from ripening. By stressing the plant with reduced water and cutting at it, the plant will decide to try to protect the fruit it has formed already and focus on ripening that up for you!
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Bonide Tree Fruit Spray Question

Monday, July 14th, 2008

W. Maalouf of Marshall, VA asks:

“We have a two year old fruit cherry tree orchard. I had business out of the country, so asked my 19 year son to be sure to spray the trees when I was gone because there were worms and the start of the Japanese Beatles. Anyway..I just got home and found out he sprayed Bonide Fruit Tree Spray straight without ANY dilution!!! The leaves of course are all brown now! Some still have a few green leaves and there are no sign of any bugs…but I am wondering if they are history or if we should try to do something to help the matter. Please advise ASAP! One day maybe he will actually read the directions! Thanks for your help….. ”

 Well, the first thing I’d say is SCARY!

Bonide is a full-spectrum spray that attacks multiple “problems”, some of which you didn’t have. And, it doesn’t attack some of the things that you do mention having.  So, if you were worried about “beatles and worms”, it may have been better to choose a method that would eradicate only those types of pests rather than something that also attacks fungus, scale, mites and other diseases. Even without doing the proper dilution, this product contained poisons that really weren’t necessary. 

As I understand it, Bonide contains Captan, Sevin, Malathion and Methoxychlor. Here’s the label so you can read more yourself. Notice that it isn’t even used to control worms (by which I assume you mean caterpillers). Sevin kills bees, so you may have killed off your pollenation population. As well, it would have killed off any parasitic wasps that may have been living in your garden. These are natural predators to caterpillers, and it takes them much longer to repopulate than it does for caterpillers to repopulate, so your ecosystem may be out of balance now. You have also applied a product that kills mites. It is quite likely that your miticide also kills all spiders. Spiders are natural predators to Japanese Bettles. Again, the natural balance is put out of whack by this type of product. And, dare I remind  you of the malathion scares and what this product does to humans?

 Japanese Beetles are something I don’t deal with in Seattle. But, by doing a bit of reading, I learned that pheremone traps do exist for these buggers. This might be a better option next time. As well, for caterpillers, products like Bt might work for you. Bt is a bacterium that attacks only the caterpillers.

Since your son didn’t dilute the product and apply it according to manufacturer’s directions, anything in the product may have caused the dieback that you’ve seen. What killed the leaves on the trees may be just the “spreader-sticker” that adheres the product to the leaves. This could have suffocated the leaves. But, truly, I’m not sure what portion of the product attacked the plants themselves. Fortunately, this product doesn’t contain an herbicide. I suggest you contact the Bonide corporation to find out what happened.

Personally, I prefer to avoid this kind of product altogether and try to rebuild your natural ecosystem. You’ve applied organophosphates and organocholorides to your edible garden. I suggest you and your son take some time to really understand not only how to properly apply these in the future but what it really means to put them into your garden. My hope is that by having the opportunity to learn more, you will choose to take more eco-friendly steps to manage your orchard in the future.

 Good luck & thanks for writing in!

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UVA Study Reports Pollution Reduces Flower Fragrance & Bee Populations

Tuesday, June 10th, 2008

A fellow horty recently emailed me a link to the UVA newspaper  that reported earlier this spring that pollution is reducing the fragrance in flowers. In turn they have linked the reduction in flower fragrance to the diminishing populations of bees.

Unfortunately, the diminishing bee populations are becoming more and more apparent to me in my own little urban garden. Plants like rosemary, blueberries and rhododendrons that have, in past years, been swarmed with bees are visited this year by just a few intermittent buzzing bees. And, this year the honeybees are almost completely absent. Bumblebees are still finding me as are hover flies, but even they are fewer in number. And, so far, not one bald faced hornet has shown his glowing white and black face to me.

Yes, our spring has been unseasonably cold and wet, but we have had many hot days. Too, my greenhouse door is often open, and pollenators tend to head for the heat and flowers in it. A few yellow jackets, many flies, a couple of bumble bees and some parasitic wasps have made it in, but so far no honeybees. (Yes, some get caught on sticky traps and others just get confused in the ceiling, which is how I have an idea of what comes in. When I can I help them find their way out.)

What are your observations about bees and other pollenators this year and in years past?

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