Archive for the ‘pests’ Category

Beneficial Insects and Birds that Eat Insect Pests

Wednesday, June 3rd, 2009

Earlier this week I got a call from a woman looking to buy “aphid eating bees”. I suggested she hang a hot dog out by her aphid-infested plants to attract Yellow Jackets. She didn’t like that idea very much. Apparently, someone at a garden show years ago had sold her “nice bees” that eat aphids. When she described what she bought, it sounded a lot like she’d been sold Orchard Mason Bees. I don’t think they eat aphids, but please correct me if I’m wrong here readers. I’ve seen posts mentioning “aphid bees”, but I have yet to find any real detail on them.

Anyway, back to the ones that do eat aphids and other pest insects — Yellow Jackets and Bald Faced Hornets are notorious meat eaters. They’ll snatch up aphids and clean your plants beautifully. Just steer clear so they don’t come after you. Yes, Yellow Jackets are mean. But, Bald Faced Hornets would rather go about their business than chase you around the garden. Stay away from their nests and don’t swat at them, and odds are they’ll leave you alone. Yellow Jackets on the other hand might just chase you for their own personal amusement.

Hummingbird hovering over Waterfeature

Hummingbird hovering over Waterfeature

That being said, I was thrilled to find a big, fat Yellow Jacket hiding under my floating row cover just above the cabbages and cauliflowers that have been munched on my cabbage worms over the last few days. I’m not sure why s/he decided to plant herself there, but I’m hoping she’s on guard for worm hatches. This morning, I found no new worms and no new worm damage in the bed. Fortunately, when I peeled back the fleecy row cover, I didn’t manage to touch the Yellow Jacket. She stayed put as I gently draped the cover back over the beds after working. Hopefully, she’s my new pest guard and will make my worm picking work easier.

Not interested in attracting Yellow Jackets or Bald Faced Hornets to your garden to help battle pests? Try creating a Hummingbird-friendly space. I’ve caught them harvesting aphids in my garden more than once, and generally they’re pretty nice. They can be territorial and may dive-bomb you, but that’s pretty rare in my garden. Too, attracting wrens, nuthatches, titmice, and other birds will help keep down pest problems from aphids to mosquitos to root-eating grubs to all sorts of other non-beneficial insects we gardeners love to hate.

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Brassica Worm Pests and Pest Management

Tuesday, June 2nd, 2009

Cabbage Loopers, or maybe they’re Imported European Cabbage Worms, are back in my garden. Last year, I handpicked them vigilantly and didn’t sustain too much damage.  This year I kept my crops covered with plastic hooping when it was really cold and floating row cover now that it is warmer.

Protective Row Cover Pulled Back Revealing Pest and Edibles

Protective Row Cover Pulled Back Revealing Pest and Edibles

I’ve seen the white adult butterflies with their signature dotted wings flittering about my garden, looking for their favorite hosts (aka my cabbages and cauliflower).  I thought the defenses were up and the crops were secured. Then, I pulled back the floating row cover in one bed to do some weeding, seeding and crop inspection. And, dang, there were a couple of worms chomping away.  SQUISH! Now they’re gone and my organic veggies are barely damaged.

So, what’s the message? Well, if there’s any opening in the floating row cover, those egg-laying white wonders are going to get into the plants. In one bed, my row cover is tightly secured over hoops with no entry point available. In the infested bed, the row cover is somewhat secured but mostly just floating. That weak link in the chain of defense meant the invaders made their way in.

Now I’m checking daily (if not a couple times a day) for worms on my cabbages. And, the floating row cover is more secured in all areas.

The best part about picking off the worms? Seeing my cabbages starting to tighten up and form yummy purple balls and little buds of cauliflower beginning to appear amid the protective leaves. I think I might even harvest my first cabbage today. Not only will that make a tasty addition to my endless salads, but it will also open up a planting spot for one of my Butternut squashes that are ready to move out of the greenhouse and into the garden beds.

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Floating Row Cover are Multipurpose Summer Sheets for the Garden

Tuesday, April 21st, 2009
March Planted Brassicas in April

March Planted Brassicas in April

There are many reasons to cover our vegetable garden beds. We add hoop houses with plastic to increase heat, extend the growing season, ramp up edible production rates, and provide other protections as illustrated here.  But, for some crops and during the warmer times of year, when flying pests are looking for delicious spots to lay their eggs, something more lightweight and breathable makes sense. Floating row cover is the answer to these needs.

Floating row cover is a lightweight, partially opaque fabric that is used for a variety of reasons in the garden, including:

  • Retaining heat in young beds — but not as much as plastic.
  • Protecting plants like carrot and brassicas from flying insects. (The row cover keeps the insects from getting to the plants where they like to lay eggs and then lay waste to garden crops.)
  • Allowing some light and lots of sunshine into crops
  • Increasing airflow to the plants to reduce fungal disease problems
  • Keeping some pests, like the neighborhood cats & pecking birds, out of freshly tilled and seeded beds.
Lettuces Under Floating Row Cover Hoop House

Lettuces Under Floating Row Cover Hoop House

The cool season crops I planted into the garden beds back in March were given a boost of heat by way of hoop houses covered in plastic.  But, as the days have warmed and the crops have started to acclimate to the warmer weather and longer days, I decided it was time for some of them to switch out their winter plastic coverings for the  lighter fabric provided by floating row cover.

My lettuce bed would grow just fine without floating row cover and likely wouldn’t be decimated by pests — except for my neighbor’s cat. I do not want to find that he or his buddies are using my beds as his toilet. So, strapping the row cover onto the hoops means that sunlight reaches the plants, rains do too. Air also begins to circulate better across the plants, which will help keep down warm-heat related problems. And, the darned cat can’t get into the bed!

Brassica and Spinach Bed covered with floating row cover

Brassica and Spinach Bed covered with floating row cover

Some of my other beds don’t have hoops, but they’re filled with crops that I know have pest problems in the Seattle area:

I could simply drape the fabric over the plants and let it float in place. This technique works well as long as you don’t have a big wind come through. Plants simply push the fabric up as they grow; it is that lightweight. However, I opted to hammer some stakes into the ground and affix the cover crop to it. This insures a few key things:

  • The fabric won’t blow away
  • The cat can’t poop on my cauliflower
  • Birds can’t eat my radish seed or seedlings
  • I can see through the fabric to watch the plants grow.
Recycled Aluminum posts with plastic clips holding row cover in place

Recycled Aluminum posts with plastic clips holding row cover in place

In one of these non-hooped beds, I used recycled coated aluminum poles from my old, broken down zipper greenhouse. I draped the fabric over them and affixed them with extra hoop house clips.  In another bed, I hammered wooden stakes into the edge of the bed and stapled the material to the posts and to the nearby fence. Both seem to be working quite well.

It is also important to realize that the floating row cover as well as plastic hoop covers will also keep the pollenators out of the plants. So, as you’re planning your cropping rotations, it is important to remember this. Right now, my beds are filled with items that don’t require pollenation. Essentially, I’ve got greens and root veggies going. However, later, as I start adding in squash, cucumber, tomatoes and other flowering/fruiting vegetables, I’ll need to be sure to place them in zones where the covers can be opened to allow bees, butterflies, hummingbirds and other beneficial insects to join the party and help make my garden productive. If that means picking a few green worms off my cabbage later in the season, so be it. But for now, those white butterflies can fly, fly away!

Unfortunately, it doesn’t help with slugs, but that’s a post for another day.

Want to learn more about cabbage loopers, carrot fly, and other edible garden pests? Visit the gardenhelp store and pick up a copy of Steve Solomon’s Growing Vegetables West of the Cascades. It is a fantastic resource for all veggie gardeners!

Need some floating row cover for your garden? Contact Irish Eyes to order yours now!

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Keeping Critters Out of the Vegetable Patch

Friday, April 3rd, 2009

I’m opening up the discussion. How do you manage to keep deer from mowing your shrubs to the ground, rabbits from nibbling your lettuce, raccoons from harvesting your zucchini, squirrel from stealing your corn and possums from stealing your strawberries?

Even a Lazy Dog's Scent Can Make a Difference

Even a Lazy Dog's Scent Can Make a Difference

In my current gardening world I’m fortunate, the only animal pests I have to battle off are cats that like to use my planter boxes as litter boxes, rats that occasionally steal fruit off of trees and squirrels that rip ripe heads off corn and sunflowers. (Well, and all the insect pests and diseases, but that’s a little off topic.) In past gardens, I’ve had to contend with all these other pests with varying degrees of success.  Following are a few things that have worked for me or for others in my wide network of gardeners. Please chime in to share your experiences with any of these techniques or other solutions you suggest for the gardening community!

  • Deer: Deer are tricky and will mow all sorts of things in the garden down faster than you might believe. Don’t be lured into believing that just because something is labeled “deer proof” that they won’t give it a try.
    • Deer fencing that is too tall to hop and well anchored to the ground so they can’t scrabble under it.
    • Scented material applications like: blood meal. Zest or Irish Spring soap hung in the garden (apparently, they really don’t like that fresh scent!). Cat pheromones/urine.
    • Motion sensor lights or motion sensor, high pressure water jet sprinklers.
    • Deer scarer water features (Shishi odoshi)
    • Dogs
  • Rabbits: Rabbits are particularly difficult because they burrow under fences and are very quiet. They like low-growing materials, so anything with a hard, tall trunk they’re likely to leave alone.
    • Dogs
    • Low voltage wiring installed low to the ground
  • Raccoons: Raccoons are nasty, mean creatures when provoked. My grandparents’ toy poodle tried to chase one off and lost an eye to the raccoon. That didn’t stop old Sport from chasing them, but it came at a high price.
    • Dogs — to a degree. Raccoons will stand up to dogs and often do a lot of damage in the process. However, if you have property with dogs running free on it, their scent may be deterrent enough to send the raccoons to easier pickings.
    • Low voltage wiring installed low to the ground
    • Remove water features, kitty pools, and any other fresh water source. They like water.
  • Squirrels and rats: Squirrels & rats can be tough to manage. They’ll strip bark off of trees in winter and corn off of stalks in summer. They’ll nibble fruit and steal berries. And, they’re hard to keep away.
    • Cats and Dogs — well, odds are this won’t keep them away. They’ll run along fence tops and taunt your pets. But, if your dog or cat is fast enough, they might just kill off a squirrel or two.
    • If you can’t beat’m, use’m: The minute I see the first corn stolen off a stalk or a head torn off one sunflower, I start my own harvest. The squirrels are smart and start harvesting when food is ripe. Use them as your indicator that harvest time has arrived.
    • For rats, use traps with bacon and peanut butter. Start early in the season as they’ll produce multiple generations in one spring/summer season.
    • Don’t use bird feeders. Bird feeders attract squirrels and rats. They clean up the ground below feeders and are kept well fed over winters through your best efforts to help the birds. Instead, plant shrubs that provide food to the birds in other ways.
    • Clean up your dog poop. Rats will eat dog poop.
  • Possums: Possums are lazy, lumbering and not all that smart. They will, however, move right in to a warm cozy spot (like in my crawl space of a rental under the kitchen sink one winter long ago).
    • Motion sensor lights to ward off the night scavengers
    • Low voltage wiring installed low to the ground
    • Dogs and cats
  • Cats: read more about managing cats in the garden here.

Please chime in with your own trials, tests and solutions to managing furry pests in your vegetable (or ornamental) garden.

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Freezing Weather Kills All Garden Pests & Weeds!

Monday, December 22nd, 2008

Sorry to disappoint you, but freezes don’t kill all the garden insects. I lied. Still, some of the flora and fauna pests took a beating this week. And, unfortunately, others may be trying to make your home their home. Despite the freeze, critters are buggin’ out there!

Adult slugs are probably done for the season, but their eggs are laying dormant waiting for the temps to get to around 40F before they burst forth to forage for food among our snow-tortured, blackened plants. Root weevil larvae is resting quietly in dormancy, deep in the soil where it is unlikely to freeze. (And knowing those suckers, it’s unlikely that a freeze would take them out anyway.)

Abandoned Papery Hornet Nest in Winter

Abandoned Papery Hornet Nest in Winter

Bee nests, like this hornet nest, should be vacant after a deep freeze. And, the bees won’t repopulate it next year. Taking them down to explore with kids is fun — if the wind hasn’t blown them away already. Only approach them if you KNOW the weather has frozen and the nest is abandoned. And, as much as you might think of hornets as a pest, remember they have lots of beneficial purposes in the garden too. Plus, they aren’t aggressive so long as you don’t attack their homes!

And, a freeze isn’t going to do a darn thing to stop weed seeds from sprouting. Seeds can remain frozen for years and still remain viable. So, unfortunately, we’ll all be weeding next spring (or even sooner if the weather gets back to normal).

So the good news is, adult slugs and other bugs are probably dead and gone. The bad news is your garden is going to face a resurgence after things melt and we get back to our temperate Seattle winter. But, perhaps when those slug eggs hatch they’ll starve unless they decide to start snacking on emerging shot weed. Now wouldn’t that be a coup d’etat in the garden?!

And, rodent pests are particularly invasive during this weather. Likely, they’re moving into our homes, autos and garages seeking food and shelter from the storm. Make sure your house is sealed up tight. The last thing you want to deal with is rats, mice or squirrels taking up residence! Not only will the adults survive happily in your attics and crawl spaces, but so will their children, grandchildren and so on…

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Why are Bees Disappearing & What Can We Do to Help Their Populations?

Friday, November 7th, 2008
Danty Heuchera is a Tasty Treat

Danty Heuchera is a Tasty Treat

Anyone in tune with popular media has heard that bee populations are dieing out and have been in decline for several years. In my own very diverse garden I’ve noticed a huge decline in honeybees. I use no pesticides, and I provide a diverse array of food sources for all bees. Still, this year my carpet of blooming thyme is visited by just a few bees at a time and the usual incessant buzz is nearly silent this year. Despite knowing that the bees are in decline, most still wonder why this is happening. There are several theories to choose from. I’m sure there are more theories than those I’ll discuss, and I look forward to learning more from your input into this discussion.

Colony collapse disorder is the term used to describe the losses where suddenly all of the worker bees just take off, abandoning the hive – baby bees and all. But why and where are they collapsing to?

  • Dead beat dads: Some will say the bees are just stressed out and can’t take it – kind of like a deadbeat dad that hits the road. But all the dads leaving all at once?
  • A fungus among us: When adult bees are infected with disease, such as gut fungi, they will fly away to die alone in order to save the hive. The question is, why is the entire hive flying away rather than just one bee at a time?
  • Vampire attacks: Yes, I said it. Vampires, well vampire-like mites that suck the life out of a bee are infecting hives. But these have been around for 30+ years in the U.S. and predate the huge population declines we’re now seeing.
  • A Pesticide by any other name is still a pest: Sevin, aka Carbaryl, is out there, and it is killing bees. It’s actually been killing bees since it was introduced in 1958. Maybe it’s reached levels that are contributing to colony collapse disorder, maybe not. And, yes, there are other pesticides that kill bees.
  • Flowers aren’t as fragrant as they used to be: Earlier this year a UVA study introduced a new theory – that pollution is contributing to reduced fragrance paths for the bees to follow. So, if the bees are confused or just can’t find food near their home, maybe they’re hitting to road to a new location where they can find food?
Resting in the Campanula

Resting in the Campanula

Well, if the scientists dedicated to this problem haven’t figured out why the beehives are collapsing and why the bee populations are in serious decline then certainly I can’t give you the answer. Still, what I can do is give you some ideas to help us work together to repopulate our bee communities:

  • Take up bee keeping: If you live in an outlying area, think about starting up hives of your own. You’ll bring in bee populations, have a wonderfully pollinated garden, be able to study how the hive performs and have honey galore from your own local source.
  • Leave off the pesticides: Practice integrated pest management (IPM) and think before you apply a chemical to your home or garden. Products like Sevin are sold as harmless despite continued research exposing them as toxic to humans. And, read the labels on all pesticides. Trade names may change despite keeping ingredients the same. Sevin is, after all, Carbaryl in sheep’s clothing. Oh, and one more note on these pesticides. Realize that when you kill off predators like wasps, hornets and yellow jackets, you are disturbing natural ecosystems. The beneficial predators (aka wasps, etc.) take longer to repopulate than the pests (aphids, cabbage loopers, tent caterpillars, etc..). Once you’re out of balance; it can be hard to get back into balance.
  • Plant diversity: By providing a wide array of blooming plant materials you will give the beneficial insects the food sources they need to keep their populations high and our gardens blooming for generations to come. Remember: If the bees aren’t here to pollinate the flowers, then our plants die. If our plants die, so will we.
Kent Beauty Oregano Visited By Honeybee

Kent Beauty Oregano Visited By Honeybee

Following are some great plants and planting ideas to incorporate in your garden for the bees:

  • Fruit trees: These bloom early in spring as the orchard mason bees come out briefly. Orchard mason bees are non-aggressive, small black bees that love orchard fruits. It’s not unlikely for you to miss them during their brief active cycle in spring.
  • Herbs: Bumble bees and honeybees alike love herbs like thyme, oregano, rosemary, lavender and sage. Hey, and the hummingbirds love lavender and sage too!
  • Berries: Again, the bumblers and the honeybees vie for the chance to spread pollen from one blueberry to another. And raspberries? Well, I’m glad they all get pollinated and then set fruit. Ahead of fruit set, my canes are a-buzz for weeks!
  • Fruiting vegetables: I call them fruiting vegetables because I’m encouraging you to plant tomatoes, eggplants, squash, cucumbers, green beans, peppers and peas. These plants provide their fruit for us to eat – despite the fact that we call their fruit a vegetable! Bring in the food crops and bring in the honeybees.
  • Vegetative vegetables: These are the ones that produce leafy, stalky food that we love like cabbage heads and unbloomed broccoli bunches. And what if you get a cabbage looper worm? Well, if you’ve got parasitic wasps and yellow jackets cruising the garden, they’ll snatch’m up or lay an egg in them faster than the green crawly can fatten up. And, if you’ve got a chicken, robin, or house finch pecking around, she’ll thank you for the tasty snacks you brought home for them.

Hopefully, you’ve gotten the message that by providing a natural, pesticide-free habitat for bees and birds, particularly by planting edibles for yourself, you have the opportunity to create a complete ecosystem. The bees pollinate the plants. The wasps parasitize the pests. The birds pollinate the flowers and eat the pests. And you? Well, you benefit from a healthy planet and a garden that feeds you organically and locally.

For additional reading:

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Controlling Houseplant Fruit Flies & Fungus Gnats Naturally

Wednesday, November 5th, 2008

As a garden consultant, I hear this question a lot: What do I spray to get rid of the fruit flies in my house plants?

The first thing I try to determine is whether the pest is truly a fruit fly or is actually a fungus gnat. They’re both tiny and truly annoying. Fruit flies tend to invade our kitchens, particularly during harvest season and sometimes they move into our houseplant soil along the way. I’ve posted ways to use carniverous plants in your kitchen to control them, and some of my readers have shared their methods as well in this post.

Sticky Stakes for Houseplants
If the problem does turn out to be an infestation of fungus gnats, the more likely culprit to live in houseplants, I steer people away from the pesticide aisle and suggest a few simple environmental and pesticide-free control options:

  • Add a thin layer of pebbles or gravel to the top of the potting soil in your indoor plant containers. Fungus gnats lay eggs in the top layer of the soil and hatch from there. They can’t do this in pebbles.
  • Clean your catch trays. Gunky catch trays can be egg-laying spots for fungus gnats.
  • Insert sticky traps into your houseplants. These are inexpensive, pesticide free papers covered with a sticky material. As the gnats buzz above your plant, they are attracted to the yellow color and smack to the sticky surface never to fly again.

If you’re not sure whether you’re dealing with fungus gnats or fruit flies, know this: Sticky traps attract both pests and may solve the problem regardless!

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Asian Longhorn Beetle & Other Annoying Pest News

Thursday, October 23rd, 2008

I just read that an Asian Longhorn Beetle infestation has erupted in New England. I also learned from this article that once the eggs hatch in trees there’s nothing to eradicate them. The pest has only been in the Eastern U.S. for about 10 years now, and there are no known natural predators or good methods. Once these guys go to town, huge swaths of trees will be destroyed. This means fall leaf displays will be reduced and maple syrup prices may skyrocket. But, more importantly than losing our visual and tastebud pleasures, we will be losing trees.

Do I have a solution? Unfortunately, no. I do suggest that vigilance is important. Watch for the insects in your area. Take care transporting fresh wood products from area to area — like wood chips for mulch and firewood. If you do find an infestation, report it to help track the problem and to learn how to best control it. You may not save the infested tree, but by managing the wood from it, you may save others.

When I was a kid in rural Virginia, our last family homestead went under attack in the 1980s by gypsy moths. Huge, old oaks that created shade for us and habitat for adorable tree frogs (among other flora and fauna) were lost to the infestation. The forest is slowly coming back, but the oaks are gone for good. I can only hope through vigilance and proper management other forests may not be lost to similar invasive pests.

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Controlling Leaf Miners

Wednesday, September 10th, 2008
Mined Rainbow Chard Leaves

Mined Rainbow Chard Leaves

If you’re growing chard, spinach or other leafy greens in Seattle this month, you may be seeing widening lines of twirling damage running through your crops. Fall and Spring seem to be the season for the leafminer to go crazy on our food crops. And, they’re tough to remedy.

Leaf miners are small maggot creatures that live in the mid-tissue layer of plant leaves. They “mine” out the nutrients in a rapidly-widening path that skeletonizes plant leaves. If you break open the remaining layers of the leaves, you may find a tiny maggot wiggling around in its speckled black poop. You may find that the worm has turned into a pupae or the pupae has hatched and flown away.

Mined Leaf with Exit Hole

Mined Leaf with Exit Hole

How to get rid of them? Hopefully you have parasitic wasps that will do the work for you (another reason not to spray bee-killing insecticides in the garden!) But, if your leaves are being mined already, then you need to get to work removing and destroying the affected leaves. If you remove the leaves early, you avoid the chance that another crop will destroy additional leaves on the same or other plants. Plus, if you let the leaves remain, you may infect your soil with pupae, bringing on a fresh crop of problems next spring.

Can you spray? Please don’t. Because leaf miners live inside the layers of the leaves, its unlikely that a spray application will even affect them. And if a product promises that it does kill leafminer larvae, keep in mind that it must have the ability to penetrate the cell layers of the leaf that you plan to eat. 

Close Up of Mined Rainbow Chard Leaf

Close Up of Mined Rainbow Chard Leaf

Too, there are some weeds like plantain and chickweed that serve as host plants for this pest. Be vigilant in removing them from your garden.

Oh, and when you cut off a leaf of infected chard or spinach, you can eat the part that hasn’t already been eaten by the miner. Just tear the good part away and toss it in your salad. Share and share alike!

Now that you’ve harvested all those leafy greens, here’s a quick recipe that you’re bound to enjoy:

Ingredients:

  • Leafy greens like spinach or chard, torn into pieces with mid-ribs removed
  • Mid-ribs of leafy greens, chopped
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 1 tomato, cut in wedges
  • olive oil
  • dash red pepper flakes or fresh ground black pepper
  • 2 T. soy sauce

Heat olive oil in large saute pan or wok. Add chopped mid-ribs of greens and onion. Saute over medium heat until slightly browned. Add garlic and red pepper flakes and saute briefly. Begin adding chopped greens, tossing to wilt. As each batch starts to shrink, add another batch. Try not to overcook. When all are slightly wilted, add soy. Remove from heat and toss with tomatoes.

Take that Leaf Miners…you never had it so good!

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Easy Way to Control Fruit Flies Naturally

Monday, September 8th, 2008

It’s September. Our edible gardens are overflowing. Delicious, sun-ripened tomatoes and peaches and melons are filling up our counter space as we make our way through the season’s edible bounty. If you’re like me, you avoid refrigeration for these freshly harvested items (and others) to ensure they retain great texture and flavor. Sure, eventually some end up in the fridge, but as others languish on the countertop, fruit flies are bound to find them.

Swarms of these little buggers explode from mounds of ripe seasonal fruits and vegetables, seeming to have emerged from nowhere. Their populations increase faster than we can consume our edibles, and they seem near-impossible to control.

Certainly, after putting in all the effort to produce (or purchase) un-sprayed, natural, organic foods, we’re not going to start spraying once they’re in our homes. And, without putting the harvest directly in the fridge, there seems no way to keep the fruit flies at bay. Even if we do put them in the fridge, the fruit flies may start gathering in our sinks (just to spite us, I think).

So, get to point, right? How can they be controlled?

Sundew hunting insects amid ripening tomatoes

Sundew hunting insects amid ripening tomatoes

For the last two years I’ve started keeping Sundew plants in my kitchen. Sun Dews (Drosera genus) are beautiful, carniverous plants. Their lovely leaves are covered with drops of, well, what else? Sticky dew-like droplets that trap tiny insects, which the plants then digest.

I keep my plant, for most of the year, on the window shelf over the kitchen sink. Here they get great morning sun that creates a spectacular sparkly show of dew drops for me to enjoy. As well, by keeping them above the sink, I’m more inclined to keep them very moist, which they require.

Sundew digesting Fruit Flies

Sundew digesting Fruit Flies

When I wash fruits and vegetables fresh from the garden, leaf hoppers often jump from my harvest and hit the sundew. Okay, I’ll admit that sometimes I catch the darn bugs and feed them to my plant.  When the fruit flies erupt, I often place my tiny sundew amid the bowl full of fly-attracting deliciousness. The flies are also attracted to the plant, and it gets to enjoy harvest time almost as much as I do. And, sometimes the fruit flies just seem to be everywhere — swarming around a drip on a wine bottle or hovering near the seam of the compost tub. Occassionally, during these times, you’ll find me whirling my sundew through the air, capturing as many fruit flies as possible. But most of the time, just having the plant in the kitchen does the trick. It seems that by allowing my sundew to gorge itself on carniverous feasts during the harvest season, it requires little to no animal feeding the rest of the year.

One thing a sundew won’t do for you — it won’t clean pests off your houseplants. I had a houseplant that was infested with aphids. As a test, I put the sundew in the base of the plant’s pot and encouraged some aphids toward the sundew. Poor thing, it just got infested by the aphids. I won’t be trying that again!

Sundews grow in many places around the world and are made up of many different species within the genus. Odds are you’ll be able to find one that is native to a location near you. Check with local nurseries or specialty growers.

More information on Drosera is available:

Want to see a fruit fly struggling to get away from a drosera? The video’s a little rough, but still…

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