Archive for the ‘pesticides’ Category

New Report on Old Pesticides Harming Wildlife

Tuesday, April 21st, 2009

This just in: Biologists are naming 3 pesticides as harmful salmon including carbaryl, carbofuran and methomyl. This is in addition to three others named late last year:  malathion, diazinon and chlorpyrifos.

Carbaryl is also known by the trade name Sevin, which also harms bees as discussed here.  It, as well as malathion,  is also contained in other products as I found out last year when a reader asked me to look into Bonide Tree Fruit spray.  Carbaryl also makes an appearance in lawn care products.

Read more here about this study, the pesticides, the implications, the changes and recommended practices to help keep salmon (among other wildlife) safe.

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Help Michele Obama Keep Her Garden Chemical Free and Chemical-Lobby-Free Too

Sunday, April 12th, 2009

This morning I received an email informing me that the pesticide lobby is working the Obamas to add pesticides to the White House organic vegetable garden.  They may “shudder” at the thought of growing vegetables without pesticides, but I bet there are a few of us out there who shudder at the though of adding pesticides. Sure, the chemical companies pay a big role in feeding the world, but is it really necessary? I don’t think so. I know a small residential garden can be bountiful without pesticides, so why should the Obama’s residential garden have to be any different?

If you would like to read the letter from Mid America CropLife Association to the White House, go here. If you would like to sign the petition to keep the pesticides out of Michele Obama’s veggies, go here.

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Lost Pesticide Application Directions — What to Do?

Saturday, November 8th, 2008

Herb from Uncasville, CT writes in for help:

“I HAVE YOUR ALL SEASON FRUIT TREE SPRAY BUT HAVE LOST THE DIRECTION ON HOW TO MIX IT UP TO SPRAY MY TREES PLEASE HELP ME”

Herb, thanks for getting in touch, but I think your best best it to look at the label on the pesticide and contact the manufacturer for instructions. Since I’m not sure who the manufacturer is by your description (and its definitely not “mine”), I’m unable to track down instructions for you. Odds are they’re available online though. Most manufacturers are making them available this way these days.

If there is no label at all on the package, I suggest taking the bottle to your local toxics recycling center to have it properly disposed of. If you don’t know what you have, you can’t be sure what to do with it. And, it should not be put into your regular garbage can for pick up.

And, out of curiosity, what are you using this mystery spray on and why? If you share it, perhaps we can help you find alternatives to traditional pesticide applications.

Thanks again for writing in.

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Why are Bees Disappearing & What Can We Do to Help Their Populations?

Friday, November 7th, 2008
Danty Heuchera is a Tasty Treat

Danty Heuchera is a Tasty Treat

Anyone in tune with popular media has heard that bee populations are dieing out and have been in decline for several years. In my own very diverse garden I’ve noticed a huge decline in honeybees. I use no pesticides, and I provide a diverse array of food sources for all bees. Still, this year my carpet of blooming thyme is visited by just a few bees at a time and the usual incessant buzz is nearly silent this year. Despite knowing that the bees are in decline, most still wonder why this is happening. There are several theories to choose from. I’m sure there are more theories than those I’ll discuss, and I look forward to learning more from your input into this discussion.

Colony collapse disorder is the term used to describe the losses where suddenly all of the worker bees just take off, abandoning the hive – baby bees and all. But why and where are they collapsing to?

  • Dead beat dads: Some will say the bees are just stressed out and can’t take it – kind of like a deadbeat dad that hits the road. But all the dads leaving all at once?
  • A fungus among us: When adult bees are infected with disease, such as gut fungi, they will fly away to die alone in order to save the hive. The question is, why is the entire hive flying away rather than just one bee at a time?
  • Vampire attacks: Yes, I said it. Vampires, well vampire-like mites that suck the life out of a bee are infecting hives. But these have been around for 30+ years in the U.S. and predate the huge population declines we’re now seeing.
  • A Pesticide by any other name is still a pest: Sevin, aka Carbaryl, is out there, and it is killing bees. It’s actually been killing bees since it was introduced in 1958. Maybe it’s reached levels that are contributing to colony collapse disorder, maybe not. And, yes, there are other pesticides that kill bees.
  • Flowers aren’t as fragrant as they used to be: Earlier this year a UVA study introduced a new theory – that pollution is contributing to reduced fragrance paths for the bees to follow. So, if the bees are confused or just can’t find food near their home, maybe they’re hitting to road to a new location where they can find food?
Resting in the Campanula

Resting in the Campanula

Well, if the scientists dedicated to this problem haven’t figured out why the beehives are collapsing and why the bee populations are in serious decline then certainly I can’t give you the answer. Still, what I can do is give you some ideas to help us work together to repopulate our bee communities:

  • Take up bee keeping: If you live in an outlying area, think about starting up hives of your own. You’ll bring in bee populations, have a wonderfully pollinated garden, be able to study how the hive performs and have honey galore from your own local source.
  • Leave off the pesticides: Practice integrated pest management (IPM) and think before you apply a chemical to your home or garden. Products like Sevin are sold as harmless despite continued research exposing them as toxic to humans. And, read the labels on all pesticides. Trade names may change despite keeping ingredients the same. Sevin is, after all, Carbaryl in sheep’s clothing. Oh, and one more note on these pesticides. Realize that when you kill off predators like wasps, hornets and yellow jackets, you are disturbing natural ecosystems. The beneficial predators (aka wasps, etc.) take longer to repopulate than the pests (aphids, cabbage loopers, tent caterpillars, etc..). Once you’re out of balance; it can be hard to get back into balance.
  • Plant diversity: By providing a wide array of blooming plant materials you will give the beneficial insects the food sources they need to keep their populations high and our gardens blooming for generations to come. Remember: If the bees aren’t here to pollinate the flowers, then our plants die. If our plants die, so will we.
Kent Beauty Oregano Visited By Honeybee

Kent Beauty Oregano Visited By Honeybee

Following are some great plants and planting ideas to incorporate in your garden for the bees:

  • Fruit trees: These bloom early in spring as the orchard mason bees come out briefly. Orchard mason bees are non-aggressive, small black bees that love orchard fruits. It’s not unlikely for you to miss them during their brief active cycle in spring.
  • Herbs: Bumble bees and honeybees alike love herbs like thyme, oregano, rosemary, lavender and sage. Hey, and the hummingbirds love lavender and sage too!
  • Berries: Again, the bumblers and the honeybees vie for the chance to spread pollen from one blueberry to another. And raspberries? Well, I’m glad they all get pollinated and then set fruit. Ahead of fruit set, my canes are a-buzz for weeks!
  • Fruiting vegetables: I call them fruiting vegetables because I’m encouraging you to plant tomatoes, eggplants, squash, cucumbers, green beans, peppers and peas. These plants provide their fruit for us to eat – despite the fact that we call their fruit a vegetable! Bring in the food crops and bring in the honeybees.
  • Vegetative vegetables: These are the ones that produce leafy, stalky food that we love like cabbage heads and unbloomed broccoli bunches. And what if you get a cabbage looper worm? Well, if you’ve got parasitic wasps and yellow jackets cruising the garden, they’ll snatch’m up or lay an egg in them faster than the green crawly can fatten up. And, if you’ve got a chicken, robin, or house finch pecking around, she’ll thank you for the tasty snacks you brought home for them.

Hopefully, you’ve gotten the message that by providing a natural, pesticide-free habitat for bees and birds, particularly by planting edibles for yourself, you have the opportunity to create a complete ecosystem. The bees pollinate the plants. The wasps parasitize the pests. The birds pollinate the flowers and eat the pests. And you? Well, you benefit from a healthy planet and a garden that feeds you organically and locally.

For additional reading:

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Another Reason to Grow Your Own

Friday, August 22nd, 2008

Today’s headlines were pretty depressing…local trees have been poisoned with herbicide, mostly likely by a human who thinks s/he deserves to see some water in a lake more than the trees deserve to have life. Then I read that the FDA has okayed irradiating spinach and lettuce to reduce bacterial outbreaks.

I’ve got to wonder if the bacterial outbreaks really couldn’t be controlled through better growing practices rather than adding another step to processing the food. In The Omnivore’s Dilemma, Michael Pollan illustrated that irradiating beef could be avoided by just feeding the cattle their natural diet briefly before slaughtering them. So, maybe by growing crops in a more natural environment they’d be stronger and able to withstand these infections? I’m not sure, and I do know that even home gardeners can cook up some nasty bugs…bacteria…fungi…etc…on their crops, but really people have been growing their own for as long as people have been cultivating food, and we’ve made it this long. Do we really need something applied at the end of the growing process to extend the shelf-life of our greens and make them look prettier? I have to wonder if the erradiation isn’t really just an easy-out to avoid changing what may be chemical-dependent growing practices.

I’m curious about the entire process and freely admit I don’t have all the answers…maybe that’s what scares me most. Each time humans start using another man-made/controlled process to control nature — whether to kill a tree in the name of a view or to mass produce the perfect-looking lettuce head — it seems we take one step further down the road in damaging our planet and ourselves.

As for me, this latest news is one more reason to get my little lettuce starts into the garden right away and my greenhouse (without erradiation equipment) cleaned up and ready to feed me this winter. And, it makes me just a little happier that I picked out a pair of tree-hugger winter boots yesterday. Oboz is committed to planting a tree for each pair purchased.  Perhaps my new shoes will help re-tree to mitigate others de-treeing.

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Bonide Tree Fruit Spray Question

Monday, July 14th, 2008

W. Maalouf of Marshall, VA asks:

“We have a two year old fruit cherry tree orchard. I had business out of the country, so asked my 19 year son to be sure to spray the trees when I was gone because there were worms and the start of the Japanese Beatles. Anyway..I just got home and found out he sprayed Bonide Fruit Tree Spray straight without ANY dilution!!! The leaves of course are all brown now! Some still have a few green leaves and there are no sign of any bugs…but I am wondering if they are history or if we should try to do something to help the matter. Please advise ASAP! One day maybe he will actually read the directions! Thanks for your help….. ”

 Well, the first thing I’d say is SCARY!

Bonide is a full-spectrum spray that attacks multiple “problems”, some of which you didn’t have. And, it doesn’t attack some of the things that you do mention having.  So, if you were worried about “beatles and worms”, it may have been better to choose a method that would eradicate only those types of pests rather than something that also attacks fungus, scale, mites and other diseases. Even without doing the proper dilution, this product contained poisons that really weren’t necessary. 

As I understand it, Bonide contains Captan, Sevin, Malathion and Methoxychlor. Here’s the label so you can read more yourself. Notice that it isn’t even used to control worms (by which I assume you mean caterpillers). Sevin kills bees, so you may have killed off your pollenation population. As well, it would have killed off any parasitic wasps that may have been living in your garden. These are natural predators to caterpillers, and it takes them much longer to repopulate than it does for caterpillers to repopulate, so your ecosystem may be out of balance now. You have also applied a product that kills mites. It is quite likely that your miticide also kills all spiders. Spiders are natural predators to Japanese Bettles. Again, the natural balance is put out of whack by this type of product. And, dare I remind  you of the malathion scares and what this product does to humans?

 Japanese Beetles are something I don’t deal with in Seattle. But, by doing a bit of reading, I learned that pheremone traps do exist for these buggers. This might be a better option next time. As well, for caterpillers, products like Bt might work for you. Bt is a bacterium that attacks only the caterpillers.

Since your son didn’t dilute the product and apply it according to manufacturer’s directions, anything in the product may have caused the dieback that you’ve seen. What killed the leaves on the trees may be just the “spreader-sticker” that adheres the product to the leaves. This could have suffocated the leaves. But, truly, I’m not sure what portion of the product attacked the plants themselves. Fortunately, this product doesn’t contain an herbicide. I suggest you contact the Bonide corporation to find out what happened.

Personally, I prefer to avoid this kind of product altogether and try to rebuild your natural ecosystem. You’ve applied organophosphates and organocholorides to your edible garden. I suggest you and your son take some time to really understand not only how to properly apply these in the future but what it really means to put them into your garden. My hope is that by having the opportunity to learn more, you will choose to take more eco-friendly steps to manage your orchard in the future.

 Good luck & thanks for writing in!

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A Day of IPM

Wednesday, November 7th, 2007

Today I attended a great series of lectures at an annual IPM (Integrated Pest Management) seminar here in Seattle. Lecturers discussed green building initiatives and methods, growing healthier public spaces, plant response to climate change (rising temps and rising CO2 in the atmosphere), nursery container recycling programs (that go beyond just nursery container plastics), support hotlines for professional gardeners who need a little help now & again, bug gardens and conservation biology, and more. Whew! It was a lot of great information in a short amount of time.

It was thrilling to learn of all the methods my co-horts are employing to improve the environment. These messages helped balance out the fright that plant response to climate change invoked. Knowing that there are places working hard to recycle otherwise non-recyclable plastics, knowing that colleges are instituting programs to find new and better ways to plant and maintain gardens in which beneficials will outweigh damaging insects, learning that our city (and others too) are instituing programs so that new construction will no longer remove all green space in its path but instead is required to (and incentivized) to construct with replacement green spaces, roofs and walls — these things give me hope and inspiration and ways to help my clients even more.

When I got back to the office, I had a conference call set up. A client had taken my advice and ordered a soil pathology test from Ribeiro labs. Turns out he has Fusarium and Pythium — yuck! But, he’s actively seeking out ways to rebuild the soil without removing it all. He’s working with me and with Dr. Ribeiro to fight off these root rots via environmental controls first. Again, I’m inspired by my client. His interest in doing the right thing and his patience and willingness to put his back into the problem means I’m doing something right. I’m sending him down the right paths to find good solutions — for his garden and for the environment as a whole.

One thing I realize as I write this: I need to continue to seek out more information on integrated pest managment. I need to continue to learn about garden pests, pathogens, vectors, etc…When I think about the size of the insect kingdom, I realize I will never know all the possible pests. Likely, I will never meet a small fraction of them in my lifetime. Then, if I begin exploring the various fungi in the world, I know the same is true for those.

And, as I think about what I call a “pest” and what I call a “beneficial”, I find myself wondering if in a different place their roles would be reversed. For instance, aren’t most fungi a part of the natural decomposition cycle? And isn’t that critical to lifecycles? Another example is a hornet or a yellowjacket. I consider them both pests as well as beneficials — they can sting the heck out of me, but they can also pollinate and eat other pests like aphids. So is this all a toe-may-toe/toe-mah-toe discussion? I’m not sure, but I plan to keep exploring and asking the questions that lead me, well, probably to more questions than exact answers.

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How Can You Know What’s Being Sprayed?

Tuesday, September 18th, 2007

I’ll start out by saying I’m not a licensed pesticide applicator, nor do I want to be one. I respect those of you who carry this license and use pesticides & herbicides properly.

But (and there’s always a “but”)…

Today I met with a new client who is in a new home. In part of her new garden, a nest of yellow jackets had taken up residence. The yellow jackets were overwhelming and becoming a big problem for her neighbor and for her. So, she had called a spraying service for assistance.

They assisted by spraying TEMP SC ULTRA several times on the nest…to no avail. She then called an exterminator who sprayed DRAGNET/SFR once, and it seems the yellow jackets are now gone. So, what’s the problem, right? The right products were applied to the problem & eventually the problem went away. Well, there are a couple of issues going on:

  1.  Why did the spray company spray so many times and not get rid of the yellow jackets? If this product didn’t work after a couple of sprays, why not try another technique?
  2. Why are all of the plants in the area sprayed dieing or under serious stress? Do these products have secondary problems for plants? Did the spray company cross contaminate their spray equipment between herbicides and pesticides? Or, maybe the annoyed neighbor took an arsenal of non-pesticides to the problem causing an herbicide-like effect. Or maybe its something else altogether that soil testing will solve.
  3. Why was the spray company cagey with the client when she asked them what they were spraying? Why did they push back on providing her with the actual names of the products and the spray dates? In response to the question, “What did you spray & when did you spray it?” Why did they avoid the actual question and give the following answer?
    • “Don’t worry. it was a while ago. it won’t make you sick.”

And the next question is, why did the spraying company spray her garden with STIMPLEX? Yes, it is regulated for ornamental plants, but its a growth regulator. Yes, it can assist with plant vigor, but what’s the point? Her plants are mature shrubs & trees. She’s not cropping anything. Yes, some were a bit stressed out, but why spray them? And why spray them with a growth regulator as we’re going into fall? Again, I’m not a pesticide applicator, but I do know that encouraging new growth going into fall isn’t the best idea. I also know that evaluating the real problems with plants and soil can mean taking samples and testing them before randomly spraying something.

A lot of these plants could have used some pruning more than anything. And by pruning, I mean removing dead & crossing branches & opening up for light and air. Heck if you do that and improve the soil, plants can feed themselves and regulate their own growth. They create the hormones that are in that darn spray themselves!

And on top of all my questions, it looked to me like many of the broadleaf plants in this garden sustained some kind of spray damage somewhere along the line. I could get into asking all the same questions I posed earlier in the post when discussing the spraying for the yellow jackets, but that won’t give me the answer.

So what’s my real point? I think its actually a couple of observations.

  • First, many homeowners have no idea if their garden needs spraying or doesn’t. Many have no clue what their garden needs at all. They trust the professionals to tell them what the garden needs.
  • I think my goal here is to suggest that everyone ask deeper questions & every professional should take the time to answer questions in an educational manner.
    • Insist  that blanket statements be explained. Being told, Don’t worry. Its safe.”  Isn’t good enough. Make the person tell you what they’re doing, why they’re doing it, what it is. If you don’t understand them or they’re intimidating, don’t accept that. You and your garden deserves better! If the issue in question is a pesticide, fertilizer or other application, know what’s happening. As with bad pruning, bad chemical applications can do more damage than good — possibly destroying an otherwise perfectly beautiful and healthy garden.

As always, I welcome your insights and comments on these issues. If you know (or suspect) why a spraying company would spray a mature garden with a growth regulator in order to “help it”, I’d love to hear from you!

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