Archive for the ‘IPM’ Category

Garden Coach on How and Why to Monitor Your Crops Closely in Mid-Summer

Wednesday, August 5th, 2009

I can barely believe it is already August. It seems like just last week I was planting cabbages into the hoop house, but really that happened about four months ago in March.

The Daily Edible Harvest Underway in Midsummer

The Daily Edible Harvest Underway in Midsummer

Now I’m harvesting the last of those cabbages and planning where to put in new seedlings for a fall harvest. As well, I’m watching my summer crops closely — not just for harvest but also for pests and disease. When the food is ready, or even almost ready, that’s when it seems like the worst of the worst problems rear their ugly heads. Well, maybe I should back off on that statement — damping off on winter seedlings is pretty awful too!

So, what’s happening in the garden? Well, tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, squash, beans, beets, and much more are ripening rapidly. I’m pulling ripe fruit, roots and leaves regularly — daily in many cases. And, as I’m out there checking my plants for what’s ready to eat, I’m also monitoring them for problems. And, unfortunately, I find problems everyday. I dream of a perfect garden, but in reality every year something fails. That’s the nature of working in a living, organic space. (more…)

  • Share/Bookmark

Beneficial Insects and Birds that Eat Insect Pests

Wednesday, June 3rd, 2009

Earlier this week I got a call from a woman looking to buy “aphid eating bees”. I suggested she hang a hot dog out by her aphid-infested plants to attract Yellow Jackets. She didn’t like that idea very much. Apparently, someone at a garden show years ago had sold her “nice bees” that eat aphids. When she described what she bought, it sounded a lot like she’d been sold Orchard Mason Bees. I don’t think they eat aphids, but please correct me if I’m wrong here readers. I’ve seen posts mentioning “aphid bees”, but I have yet to find any real detail on them.

Anyway, back to the ones that do eat aphids and other pest insects — Yellow Jackets and Bald Faced Hornets are notorious meat eaters. They’ll snatch up aphids and clean your plants beautifully. Just steer clear so they don’t come after you. Yes, Yellow Jackets are mean. But, Bald Faced Hornets would rather go about their business than chase you around the garden. Stay away from their nests and don’t swat at them, and odds are they’ll leave you alone. Yellow Jackets on the other hand might just chase you for their own personal amusement.

Hummingbird hovering over Waterfeature

Hummingbird hovering over Waterfeature

That being said, I was thrilled to find a big, fat Yellow Jacket hiding under my floating row cover just above the cabbages and cauliflowers that have been munched on my cabbage worms over the last few days. I’m not sure why s/he decided to plant herself there, but I’m hoping she’s on guard for worm hatches. This morning, I found no new worms and no new worm damage in the bed. Fortunately, when I peeled back the fleecy row cover, I didn’t manage to touch the Yellow Jacket. She stayed put as I gently draped the cover back over the beds after working. Hopefully, she’s my new pest guard and will make my worm picking work easier.

Not interested in attracting Yellow Jackets or Bald Faced Hornets to your garden to help battle pests? Try creating a Hummingbird-friendly space. I’ve caught them harvesting aphids in my garden more than once, and generally they’re pretty nice. They can be territorial and may dive-bomb you, but that’s pretty rare in my garden. Too, attracting wrens, nuthatches, titmice, and other birds will help keep down pest problems from aphids to mosquitos to root-eating grubs to all sorts of other non-beneficial insects we gardeners love to hate.

  • Share/Bookmark

Brassica Worm Pests and Pest Management

Tuesday, June 2nd, 2009

Cabbage Loopers, or maybe they’re Imported European Cabbage Worms, are back in my garden. Last year, I handpicked them vigilantly and didn’t sustain too much damage.  This year I kept my crops covered with plastic hooping when it was really cold and floating row cover now that it is warmer.

Protective Row Cover Pulled Back Revealing Pest and Edibles

Protective Row Cover Pulled Back Revealing Pest and Edibles

I’ve seen the white adult butterflies with their signature dotted wings flittering about my garden, looking for their favorite hosts (aka my cabbages and cauliflower).  I thought the defenses were up and the crops were secured. Then, I pulled back the floating row cover in one bed to do some weeding, seeding and crop inspection. And, dang, there were a couple of worms chomping away.  SQUISH! Now they’re gone and my organic veggies are barely damaged.

So, what’s the message? Well, if there’s any opening in the floating row cover, those egg-laying white wonders are going to get into the plants. In one bed, my row cover is tightly secured over hoops with no entry point available. In the infested bed, the row cover is somewhat secured but mostly just floating. That weak link in the chain of defense meant the invaders made their way in.

Now I’m checking daily (if not a couple times a day) for worms on my cabbages. And, the floating row cover is more secured in all areas.

The best part about picking off the worms? Seeing my cabbages starting to tighten up and form yummy purple balls and little buds of cauliflower beginning to appear amid the protective leaves. I think I might even harvest my first cabbage today. Not only will that make a tasty addition to my endless salads, but it will also open up a planting spot for one of my Butternut squashes that are ready to move out of the greenhouse and into the garden beds.

  • Share/Bookmark

New Report on Old Pesticides Harming Wildlife

Tuesday, April 21st, 2009

This just in: Biologists are naming 3 pesticides as harmful salmon including carbaryl, carbofuran and methomyl. This is in addition to three others named late last year:  malathion, diazinon and chlorpyrifos.

Carbaryl is also known by the trade name Sevin, which also harms bees as discussed here.  It, as well as malathion,  is also contained in other products as I found out last year when a reader asked me to look into Bonide Tree Fruit spray.  Carbaryl also makes an appearance in lawn care products.

Read more here about this study, the pesticides, the implications, the changes and recommended practices to help keep salmon (among other wildlife) safe.

  • Share/Bookmark

Floating Row Cover are Multipurpose Summer Sheets for the Garden

Tuesday, April 21st, 2009
March Planted Brassicas in April

March Planted Brassicas in April

There are many reasons to cover our vegetable garden beds. We add hoop houses with plastic to increase heat, extend the growing season, ramp up edible production rates, and provide other protections as illustrated here.  But, for some crops and during the warmer times of year, when flying pests are looking for delicious spots to lay their eggs, something more lightweight and breathable makes sense. Floating row cover is the answer to these needs.

Floating row cover is a lightweight, partially opaque fabric that is used for a variety of reasons in the garden, including:

  • Retaining heat in young beds — but not as much as plastic.
  • Protecting plants like carrot and brassicas from flying insects. (The row cover keeps the insects from getting to the plants where they like to lay eggs and then lay waste to garden crops.)
  • Allowing some light and lots of sunshine into crops
  • Increasing airflow to the plants to reduce fungal disease problems
  • Keeping some pests, like the neighborhood cats & pecking birds, out of freshly tilled and seeded beds.
Lettuces Under Floating Row Cover Hoop House

Lettuces Under Floating Row Cover Hoop House

The cool season crops I planted into the garden beds back in March were given a boost of heat by way of hoop houses covered in plastic.  But, as the days have warmed and the crops have started to acclimate to the warmer weather and longer days, I decided it was time for some of them to switch out their winter plastic coverings for the  lighter fabric provided by floating row cover.

My lettuce bed would grow just fine without floating row cover and likely wouldn’t be decimated by pests — except for my neighbor’s cat. I do not want to find that he or his buddies are using my beds as his toilet. So, strapping the row cover onto the hoops means that sunlight reaches the plants, rains do too. Air also begins to circulate better across the plants, which will help keep down warm-heat related problems. And, the darned cat can’t get into the bed!

Brassica and Spinach Bed covered with floating row cover

Brassica and Spinach Bed covered with floating row cover

Some of my other beds don’t have hoops, but they’re filled with crops that I know have pest problems in the Seattle area:

I could simply drape the fabric over the plants and let it float in place. This technique works well as long as you don’t have a big wind come through. Plants simply push the fabric up as they grow; it is that lightweight. However, I opted to hammer some stakes into the ground and affix the cover crop to it. This insures a few key things:

  • The fabric won’t blow away
  • The cat can’t poop on my cauliflower
  • Birds can’t eat my radish seed or seedlings
  • I can see through the fabric to watch the plants grow.
Recycled Aluminum posts with plastic clips holding row cover in place

Recycled Aluminum posts with plastic clips holding row cover in place

In one of these non-hooped beds, I used recycled coated aluminum poles from my old, broken down zipper greenhouse. I draped the fabric over them and affixed them with extra hoop house clips.  In another bed, I hammered wooden stakes into the edge of the bed and stapled the material to the posts and to the nearby fence. Both seem to be working quite well.

It is also important to realize that the floating row cover as well as plastic hoop covers will also keep the pollenators out of the plants. So, as you’re planning your cropping rotations, it is important to remember this. Right now, my beds are filled with items that don’t require pollenation. Essentially, I’ve got greens and root veggies going. However, later, as I start adding in squash, cucumber, tomatoes and other flowering/fruiting vegetables, I’ll need to be sure to place them in zones where the covers can be opened to allow bees, butterflies, hummingbirds and other beneficial insects to join the party and help make my garden productive. If that means picking a few green worms off my cabbage later in the season, so be it. But for now, those white butterflies can fly, fly away!

Unfortunately, it doesn’t help with slugs, but that’s a post for another day.

Want to learn more about cabbage loopers, carrot fly, and other edible garden pests? Visit the gardenhelp store and pick up a copy of Steve Solomon’s Growing Vegetables West of the Cascades. It is a fantastic resource for all veggie gardeners!

Need some floating row cover for your garden? Contact Irish Eyes to order yours now!

  • Share/Bookmark

Help Michele Obama Keep Her Garden Chemical Free and Chemical-Lobby-Free Too

Sunday, April 12th, 2009

This morning I received an email informing me that the pesticide lobby is working the Obamas to add pesticides to the White House organic vegetable garden.  They may “shudder” at the thought of growing vegetables without pesticides, but I bet there are a few of us out there who shudder at the though of adding pesticides. Sure, the chemical companies pay a big role in feeding the world, but is it really necessary? I don’t think so. I know a small residential garden can be bountiful without pesticides, so why should the Obama’s residential garden have to be any different?

If you would like to read the letter from Mid America CropLife Association to the White House, go here. If you would like to sign the petition to keep the pesticides out of Michele Obama’s veggies, go here.

  • Share/Bookmark

Keeping Critters Out of the Vegetable Patch

Friday, April 3rd, 2009

I’m opening up the discussion. How do you manage to keep deer from mowing your shrubs to the ground, rabbits from nibbling your lettuce, raccoons from harvesting your zucchini, squirrel from stealing your corn and possums from stealing your strawberries?

Even a Lazy Dog's Scent Can Make a Difference

Even a Lazy Dog's Scent Can Make a Difference

In my current gardening world I’m fortunate, the only animal pests I have to battle off are cats that like to use my planter boxes as litter boxes, rats that occasionally steal fruit off of trees and squirrels that rip ripe heads off corn and sunflowers. (Well, and all the insect pests and diseases, but that’s a little off topic.) In past gardens, I’ve had to contend with all these other pests with varying degrees of success.  Following are a few things that have worked for me or for others in my wide network of gardeners. Please chime in to share your experiences with any of these techniques or other solutions you suggest for the gardening community!

  • Deer: Deer are tricky and will mow all sorts of things in the garden down faster than you might believe. Don’t be lured into believing that just because something is labeled “deer proof” that they won’t give it a try.
    • Deer fencing that is too tall to hop and well anchored to the ground so they can’t scrabble under it.
    • Scented material applications like: blood meal. Zest or Irish Spring soap hung in the garden (apparently, they really don’t like that fresh scent!). Cat pheromones/urine.
    • Motion sensor lights or motion sensor, high pressure water jet sprinklers.
    • Deer scarer water features (Shishi odoshi)
    • Dogs
  • Rabbits: Rabbits are particularly difficult because they burrow under fences and are very quiet. They like low-growing materials, so anything with a hard, tall trunk they’re likely to leave alone.
    • Dogs
    • Low voltage wiring installed low to the ground
  • Raccoons: Raccoons are nasty, mean creatures when provoked. My grandparents’ toy poodle tried to chase one off and lost an eye to the raccoon. That didn’t stop old Sport from chasing them, but it came at a high price.
    • Dogs — to a degree. Raccoons will stand up to dogs and often do a lot of damage in the process. However, if you have property with dogs running free on it, their scent may be deterrent enough to send the raccoons to easier pickings.
    • Low voltage wiring installed low to the ground
    • Remove water features, kitty pools, and any other fresh water source. They like water.
  • Squirrels and rats: Squirrels & rats can be tough to manage. They’ll strip bark off of trees in winter and corn off of stalks in summer. They’ll nibble fruit and steal berries. And, they’re hard to keep away.
    • Cats and Dogs — well, odds are this won’t keep them away. They’ll run along fence tops and taunt your pets. But, if your dog or cat is fast enough, they might just kill off a squirrel or two.
    • If you can’t beat’m, use’m: The minute I see the first corn stolen off a stalk or a head torn off one sunflower, I start my own harvest. The squirrels are smart and start harvesting when food is ripe. Use them as your indicator that harvest time has arrived.
    • For rats, use traps with bacon and peanut butter. Start early in the season as they’ll produce multiple generations in one spring/summer season.
    • Don’t use bird feeders. Bird feeders attract squirrels and rats. They clean up the ground below feeders and are kept well fed over winters through your best efforts to help the birds. Instead, plant shrubs that provide food to the birds in other ways.
    • Clean up your dog poop. Rats will eat dog poop.
  • Possums: Possums are lazy, lumbering and not all that smart. They will, however, move right in to a warm cozy spot (like in my crawl space of a rental under the kitchen sink one winter long ago).
    • Motion sensor lights to ward off the night scavengers
    • Low voltage wiring installed low to the ground
    • Dogs and cats
  • Cats: read more about managing cats in the garden here.

Please chime in with your own trials, tests and solutions to managing furry pests in your vegetable (or ornamental) garden.

  • Share/Bookmark

Knowing an Insect’s Life Cycle to Develop an IPM Strategy

Friday, March 20th, 2009

Odette from Baltimore, MD writes in:

“I have a boxelder bug infestation. I removed the box elder tree in the back last fall, hoping they would go away, however, I as welcomed to my garden today with swarms of them again. for the past 2 seasons I have been fighting these bugs with sprays, which work, but they keep coming back because I may not have gotten them all. Now that I have removed the tree, will they go away? (I moved to this house 2 years ago – the previous owner complained about them but did not know that they came from the tree. can you help me here? what else can I do? Any help is appreciated. “

Odette this is an interesting discussion item. Without a quite a bit more detail, I don’t know how helpful I can be, but here are some items to get you started.

First, I don’t know what insects you’re dealing with. It is important to fully identify the pest in order to understand how its life cycle happens and what plants it uses for these cycles. Once you identify your pest fully, you will be better armed to create an integrated pest management program (IPM) for managing the issue. And, it’s critical to be sure the insect you consider a pest isn’t actually a beneficial!

It may be that you noticed the insect in the Box Elder, but it could be that it only spends part of its lifecycle there. It may spend, say, a nymph stage on another plant in your garden or in the soil, for instance. Or, it may only live in the Box Elder. Or, it may have only spent its adult phase in the Box Elder because the Elder was under stress (pests like to go for the most stressed plant in the garden first in many cases). Or, it may need the Elder for part of its life. So, I suggest you fully identify the pest (if you haven’t already) and work with an arborists or local horticulturist to understand its lifecycle requirements. That might help you know if it will come back.

Since you do mention that you’ve been spraying, I’m going to assume you already know exactly what pest you have and that it is a pest. Knowing which pest you have is critical to knowing what course of pest management to take. If you don’t  know the pest, your sprays may have been contributing to the problem. Sometimes pesticides are applied by the unknowing only to end up killing the beneficials that prey upon our pests. Once the beneficials are removed, the pests have that much more success overtaking our gardens.

One thing you don’t mention is any damage the pests did to the plant. Did they actually do anything to the tree or garden? Or did they just seem annoying in big buzzing swarms? Could it be that these were actually beneficial insects that might have been “swarming the tree” to attack another pest that you didn’t see? It’s a question to consider…

So, what to do?

Try to identify the insect, understand its lifecycle and preferred habitats during the life cycles. If you’re unable to do this yourself, try working with your local Master Gardener Extension office to start.

Thanks for writing in and keep having fun in the garden!

  • Share/Bookmark

Freezing Weather Kills All Garden Pests & Weeds!

Monday, December 22nd, 2008

Sorry to disappoint you, but freezes don’t kill all the garden insects. I lied. Still, some of the flora and fauna pests took a beating this week. And, unfortunately, others may be trying to make your home their home. Despite the freeze, critters are buggin’ out there!

Adult slugs are probably done for the season, but their eggs are laying dormant waiting for the temps to get to around 40F before they burst forth to forage for food among our snow-tortured, blackened plants. Root weevil larvae is resting quietly in dormancy, deep in the soil where it is unlikely to freeze. (And knowing those suckers, it’s unlikely that a freeze would take them out anyway.)

Abandoned Papery Hornet Nest in Winter

Abandoned Papery Hornet Nest in Winter

Bee nests, like this hornet nest, should be vacant after a deep freeze. And, the bees won’t repopulate it next year. Taking them down to explore with kids is fun — if the wind hasn’t blown them away already. Only approach them if you KNOW the weather has frozen and the nest is abandoned. And, as much as you might think of hornets as a pest, remember they have lots of beneficial purposes in the garden too. Plus, they aren’t aggressive so long as you don’t attack their homes!

And, a freeze isn’t going to do a darn thing to stop weed seeds from sprouting. Seeds can remain frozen for years and still remain viable. So, unfortunately, we’ll all be weeding next spring (or even sooner if the weather gets back to normal).

So the good news is, adult slugs and other bugs are probably dead and gone. The bad news is your garden is going to face a resurgence after things melt and we get back to our temperate Seattle winter. But, perhaps when those slug eggs hatch they’ll starve unless they decide to start snacking on emerging shot weed. Now wouldn’t that be a coup d’etat in the garden?!

And, rodent pests are particularly invasive during this weather. Likely, they’re moving into our homes, autos and garages seeking food and shelter from the storm. Make sure your house is sealed up tight. The last thing you want to deal with is rats, mice or squirrels taking up residence! Not only will the adults survive happily in your attics and crawl spaces, but so will their children, grandchildren and so on…

  • Share/Bookmark

Lost Pesticide Application Directions — What to Do?

Saturday, November 8th, 2008

Herb from Uncasville, CT writes in for help:

“I HAVE YOUR ALL SEASON FRUIT TREE SPRAY BUT HAVE LOST THE DIRECTION ON HOW TO MIX IT UP TO SPRAY MY TREES PLEASE HELP ME”

Herb, thanks for getting in touch, but I think your best best it to look at the label on the pesticide and contact the manufacturer for instructions. Since I’m not sure who the manufacturer is by your description (and its definitely not “mine”), I’m unable to track down instructions for you. Odds are they’re available online though. Most manufacturers are making them available this way these days.

If there is no label at all on the package, I suggest taking the bottle to your local toxics recycling center to have it properly disposed of. If you don’t know what you have, you can’t be sure what to do with it. And, it should not be put into your regular garbage can for pick up.

And, out of curiosity, what are you using this mystery spray on and why? If you share it, perhaps we can help you find alternatives to traditional pesticide applications.

Thanks again for writing in.

  • Share/Bookmark