Archive for the ‘Horticulture’ Category

Why Rhododendron Leaves Roll Up in Cold Weather

Tuesday, December 16th, 2008

As temperatures have plunged into the 20s (or lower) and we’ve bundled up and watched the snow fall from our heated indoor perches, garden plants are left to fend for themselves day and night under blankets of ice and snow and amid desiccating winter winds. As the soil begins to freeze up and water uptake becomes more difficult for roots and as the dry, cold air above ground begins to sap moisture from plants, rhodies and many other plants take precautions to conserve their moisture.

Briefly, plants take up moisture in root systems and transport the water upward through roots, trunks, branches, stems and leaves. And, through the underside of leaves, water is released through leaf stomata. As water is released through the stomata, more water is drawn upward toward that same stomata. (The entire process is more complicated than that, but you get the basic idea, right?)

When a plant is faced with environmental stresses that may cause it to release more water than it can take up, which would lead to dieback in the plant, the plant will close its stomata and essentially “shut down the factory” living on reserves until the weather either warms (or cools) to a friendly temperature. Then, the leaves unroll (or in hot weather they may “unwilt”), the stomata open and the factory process of transporting water and photosynthesizing resumes.

Rhodie Blooms & New Leaves in May

Rhodie Blooms & New Leaves in May

So, don’t worry about those curled up, frozen-looking rhodie leaves. They should be just fine. You may see some frost burn later, but odds are the plant is doing what it needs to do to take care of itself while the weather outside is frightful. By spring, new leaves and beautiful blooms will unfurl.

(Oh, and in case the teaser on hot weather and wilted leaves left you wondering…a plant that will commonly “wilt” its own leaves on a hot days, despite sufficient soil moisture is the lovely hydrangea. As soon as the sun sets and the temperatures cool down, they perk right up again. Ah, to have a hot sunny day right now, right?)

Have any other garden concerns during this cold season? Please write in, and we’ll do our best to help you help your garden during this unusual Pacific Northwest cold snap.

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Winter 2009 Evening & Weekend Horticulture Classes

Thursday, November 13th, 2008

This just in…

Lake Washington Technical College Environmental Horticulture program will be offering a few evening and weekend classes for the 2009 Winter quarter. As a graduate of the program, I can attest that the horticulture program at this school is great. If you’re interested in taking some focused coursework, these might be the right things for you:

Topics in Arboriculture– Students will gain an understanding of topics and issues essential to working with trees in urban landscapes.  Some topics covered include tree biology, nutrition, pruning, plant health care, and soils.  The ISA Arborists Certification Study Guide will be the text.  This class would be helpful for anyone taking the ISA exams. (HORT 138); Tuesdays 2:00pm-5:00pm  

Landscape Design – Learn computer aided landscape design using the DynaSCAPES design program.  This class provides in depth study and hands-on experience essential to landscape design graphics. The students will gain exposure to CAD based estimating techniques, databases and plant selection programs. (HORT 120); Tuesdays from 6:00pm-9:00pm

Plant IdentificationHybrid Online Class – This class combines the flexibility and freedom of online classes with the valuable hands-on components of lecture. Students learn to identify deciduous and evergreen trees, shrubs, vines and groundcovers used in landscapes throughout the Pacific Northwest.  Emphasis is given to those plants that display specific identifying characteristics in the winter.  Cultural requirements, pruning, and susceptibility to pests and diseases are discussed. (HORT 125); Saturdays 9:00am-1:00pm

Enrollment is open through the first week of January 2009. But, if classes fill up, that date may close early, so sign up soon!

To learn more, program visits are offered every Wednesday at 12:30pm, no appointment needed.  Or visit the LWTCT Hort Program website or Phone: 425-739-8356

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Poo for Thought

Tuesday, August 5th, 2008

Today I read this quick snippet on career bat guano harvesters in Peru. And it got me thinking…”How sustainable is it for gardeners in the U.S. to use bat guano?”

If the guano we use in Seattle is harvested and shipped from Peru, is buying that fertilizer just as bad as buying fruits and vegetables shipped from Argentina in the North American winter? What is the larger economic cost of using this natural, organic fertilizer? What is the cost in petroleum, for instance, in getting that box of powdered, gardening gold to me? Would it be better for me to seek out Aged chicken poop instead?

I haven’t come up with a decision on this yet, but it’s gotten me thinking about cost v. value in the garden. Anyone else faced this one and come up with great solutions?

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Can I Eat Tomatoes Sprayed with Bonide Rot Stop?

Saturday, August 2nd, 2008

J. Laframboise (what a great name!) writes in from Rhode Island to ask:

“We have tomato blossom end rot and I would like to know if it is safe to eat the tomatoes not affected even though they’ve been sprayed with Bonide rot stop”

I’ll start by saying that this isn’t a problem I end up dealing with very often. Ironically, I tend to find it is a problem here in Seattle when we get a lot of late season rain (after our seasonal summer drought) before the fruiting is finished or when I water at night or when I neglect watering and the plants dry out and then get a heavy dose of water. Basically, it seems to happen when the plants are stressed unnecessarily.  I mulch regularly and have built some great soil that my plants seem to love. If anything I’m low in Nitrogen, which if used heavily on tomatoes, can lead to rot issues.

I’ve done some additional reading on this problem, and found that the problem comes from a calcium deficiency. (Another reader wrote in on this & I accidentally deleted his post. I hope he writes in again, so I can share his knowledge with you.) Now, keep in mind that calcium deficiency can be the result of planting in soils where calcium is lacking or where it is difficult for the plants to take up.  As well, applying calcium, perhaps as bone meal, to the tomatoes can also help them with this problem.

Additonally, reducing your cultivation around the roots of your tomatoes is also a good idea. The feeder roots are tender and easily damaged.

Now, I know that’s a lot of information that doesn’t really answer the question about the safety of plants that have already been sprayed with Bonide Rot Stop, but I feel obligated to discuss the problem and optional solutions for the future. But, here are some thoughts on the existing problem.

I don’t use this product myself, so I went to the Bonide Corporation Website to read up on their “Rot Stop Tomato Blossom End Rot” product. It is a product that is designed to be applied to the fruit, so it sounds like you’re good there. It is a product designed to manage the problem that you have, and it does help correct Calcium deficiencies.

I read the label  and discovered that it is 9.2% Calcium from Calcium chloride. It doesn’t tell me how they create the calcium chloride, so I don’t know how sustainable it is to produce. Since this product is a spray, it makes sense that they would use this form of calcium, which is highly soluable.  I tried to do some reading on the MSDS, but the website link is broken.

So, is it safe to eat the fruit? Well, Bonide sells this product throughout the U.S. No states have banned it. What we know of the product seems relatively safe. We don’t know what the “inert ingredients” are, so no ideas on that.

So, can you eat the tomatoes that have been sprayed? Seems okay. Now, I can’t promise that some study someday won’t prove otherwise, but if you trust the chemical company who makes the product you used and you trust the regulatory companies that determine safety, then you should be good to go. 

If you’re concerned you did the wrong thing this time, maybe try applying some other calcium sources next time. I like to use egg shells in the garden around seedlings to keep slugs out. The added benefit is that they add calcium to the soil. Oyster and other shell products will do the same; they release slowly though, so keep that in mind.  And, as I mentioned earlier, bone meal is another great way to go.

Thanks for writing in & good luck (and good eating). For more on growing tomatoes, look here.

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Why & How to Weed Now!

Monday, June 9th, 2008

Late spring is such a beautiful time of year. Everything is freshly leafed out. Flowers brighten even the dullest of shrubs. Even on grey, rainy Seattle spring days the beauty of spring is refreshing and almost jarringly alive. Digging into the soil awakens scurrying beetles and various milli- and centipedes. Fat worms and young tiny ones wriggle through the moist, warming soils. And, amid all of this various seasonal beauty, weeds erupt so fast we can almost watch them grow.

Weeds made up a classification of plants that I admire, sometimes more than many of the persnickety ornamentals that take years to establish and take off in the garden. Don’t get me wrong, I would prefer less weeds and more strange and wonderful oft unseen plants in my garden. But, let’s be realistic, weeds happen, and we need to figure out how to live with them — in balance.

In my own garden I have a fairly high tolerance for weeds. They pop up in abundance, and I pop them up and out as I can. This means some areas get over-run with grass weed, shot weed, chickweed, nipplewort, dandelion, fireweed, vetch, braken fern, dock weed and others periodically. But, through the years I’ve learned a few tricks for keeping each of these under control — even when I don’t have the time to eradicate every sprout right away.

For the taproot weeds like dandelion and dockweed, I avoid tugging and yanking without a tool to ensure I get the taproot out. If I pull off the top and leave the taproot intact, these plants have so much stored energy in that big root that they tend to build a stronger root system in response to my 1/2-effort weeding work. And, I end up with a stronger weed in the end — and possibly more of them!

But, sometimes I’m passing through an area of the garden, and I don’t have my tools, and I don’t have time to go grab them. Rather than leave a flowering dandelion head in place so it can spread its seed the minute I walk by, I pop off the flower or seed head and carefully dispose of it. I leave the rest of the plant intact to pull properly later. By only removing the flower/seed portion and leaving the rest of the plant intact, I avoid causing the plant to hunker in and grow stronger. Later, when I have time, I return and remove the entire weed using my garden fork and hori-hori.

If I happen by a cool season annual like shotweed, I pull them easily by hand (tool or not). Ideally, I pull them before they have set seed or the seed will fly everywhere when I pull it. If the seed flies, I likely create multiple plants in response to the single one I just removed. And, when I pull weeds like shotweed and fireweed, I am careful to deposit it into yardwaste quickly. These amazing buggers can replant themselves if they are uprooted and left in the bed.

Braken fern is a difficult bugger in my garden. Like with horsetail, which I fortunately do not do battle with in my own garden, it is one to pull and break. Yes, the broken roots will be encouraged to branch, and a new frond will pop up somewhere else. But, remember that root systems do not store infinite resources. So, by pulling regularly, you will be depriving the plant its ability to photosynthesize by which it creates its own food. Eventually, the roots will run out of energy. It might not run out in your lifetime, but we can hope, right?

Vetch is another spring nasty that winds its way through my overflowing perennial beds each spring. I do my best to trace its twining stems back to the point of origin and pop out the entire plant. When its emergence point is located, vetch is easy to pull. The problem is in finding that point! If you cannot find it, do try to remove the stems so that the plant does not set seed and spread. The good news about vetch? Bees love it, and it a nitrogen fixer. See, weeds can give back!

Bindweed (aka morning glory) is another nasty that so many of us battle. At our best, we unwind it from our trees, shrubs and flowers, and follow the vine back to the soil where it emerges. Then, we dig and follow the root to its point of origin, taking out every last bit. Yes, I’m laughing too. Getting every last bit is nearly impossible when the root dives down suddenly several feet and travels under our neighbor’s retaining wall. But, we do our best. Remember, it takes just a tiny bit of this root for the vine to re-emerge. And, a broken root means a branching root. So, if you break it and leave it in place, more than one shoot may emerge next time. But, keep pulling and consider this one to starve.

Grass weeds, like so many others, have an uncanny ability to adapt to every spot where their seeds land. These plants can grow in a lawn where it is mowed regularly. In this situation, the weed may only grow to 2″ tall before it sets seed and spreads. Then, in another garden bed, the same plant may grow 2′ tall before it sets seed and spreads. Some have roots that travel while others have shallow rooted roots that stay intact. Try your best to pull the entire plant, roots and all, to reduce the likelihood that you’re pulling in the same place a few weeks later. All over Seattle, grass weeds are thriving in the cool, wet weather that alternates every few days with warm sunshine. Ideally, pull them before the seed begins to disperse and the soil hardens in summer. For those with travelling roots, do your best to get all the roots!

Truly, weeds are adaptable. And, unfortunately, the slugs and weevils don’t seem to favor them. Ah, that we could put the fauna pests to work in eradicating the flora pests! Now is the time to get out and pull the weeds from your beds. If you have only a few weeds, pull them before you end up with a field of them. If you already have a field of them, set aside a few hours and eradicate them before the weather changes toward summer.

Right now, as we continue to receive abundant rains, our soils are still loose and easy to work. Ideally, remove deeply rooted weeds several hours after a good rainfall. This will ensure that the soil isn’t completely saturated. Having it moist but drained will reduce your compaction impact and will make pulling weeds easier.

Don’t have time to pull all those seedy weeds? Consider, at the very least, removing the seed heads to reduce the weed’s ability to spread its progeny. And, put a note on your calender to get out and pull them soon after or you’ll be repeating the cycle in no time.

Wondering about using weed killers? I’m not an advocate of applying herbicides in the garden. Yes, there are some instances where a one-time treatment may be necessary. However, I do not believe that they should be used as a regular method to control weeds. Frankly, when I see a garden with beds devoid of any weeds, I avoid it as I would a toxic waste dump. Sure, it may seem easiest to apply a chemical to the garden to do your chores for you. But, I’m not going to advocate for this. And, really, I think that’s a whole other discussion for another time. What I will leave you with is my belief that we become healthier by working with the soil and the garden. Our children learn and our pets thrive in a diverse garden space devoid of chemicals.  So get out there, breathe in the clean, fresh fragrance of spring. Dig your fingers in the soil. Embrace the earth. Grow!

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“My shrub leaves are yellow. What can I do to help my tree survive?”

Wednesday, May 28th, 2008

D. Overstreet of Fort Sam Houston, TX asks:

“My shrub leaves are yellow. What can I do to help my tree survive?”

Well, this is a common problem without a simple answer. Yellowing, often referred to as chlorosis,  is caused by leaves lacking chlorophyll, which gives them their green color and allows them to create food for themselves. Chlorosis can be the result of many different things. Without proper evaluation of the plant and its environment, it is impossible to know which of the following relates to your specific plant (or if the issue derives from something entirely different). I suggest inviting a horticulturist in your area to evaluate the plant in its environment for a proper diagnosis. 

A few things that can cause leaves to yellow:

  • This is actually a plant that is supposed to have yellow leaves; some plants are cultivated to have more yellow leaves than green leaves
  • Improper planting
    • Planted too deep
    • Planted too shallow
    • Planted with circling or girdling roots
  • Compacted soil
    • Too much water
    • Too little water
    • Too little air space
  • Pests and disease
  • Planted in the wrong place
    • Too much sun
    • Too much wind
    • Too much ice/snow
  • Cambium damage
    • lawn mowers nicking the bark
    • Other tears/damage to the bark layer
  • Nutrient deficiency or over-abundance
    • Nitrogen is used for greening in plants, but don’t over apply!
    • Other micro or macro-nutrient deficiencies or over-abundance

Thanks again for writing in with your questions. Try exploring the plant closely to see if you can find a solution among the various possiblities above or take a sample to the help desk at your local nursery.

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Gardening Successfully with Moss

Monday, March 31st, 2008

2008_03_mosslady_3.jpgEarlier this year, I had the special opportunity to meet Nori Burnett and get a personal tour of her moss garden in Richmond, Virginia. Over 30 years ago she began the process of incorporating moss into her garden in place of lawn. She had tried to establish lawns, but in her woodland setting it was a losing battle. Taking an “if you can’t beat’m then join’m attitude” she began researching the types of moss in her garden (no small task) and cultivating its growth to create vast swaths of rolling green.

2008_03_mosslady_1.jpgThese photos were taken at the end of winter. She shared printed photos and magazine photos of the garden (yes, the garden is somewhat famous!) throughout the year, and take my word for it, the space is stunning. Nori will be the first one to admit that moss doesn’t make a great “lawn” for dogs and children, but in a more adult-oriented space with lots of shade, it makes sense! The birds and squirrels may peck up some patches, but they’re easy to refill. The look of the moss changes throughout the year and provides a quiet, inviting, soft space to tread upon.

 2008_03_mosslady_2.jpg
For more on Nori’s fabulous garden, program your TiVO now to record HGTV’s Gardener’s Diary, which will feature Nori and her garden on Thursday, April 3rd at 7am. Click here for more information.

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Twig Dogwood Question for the Garden Coach

Sunday, March 30th, 2008

One of my clients who lives in a woodland setting recently wrote in to ask:

 ”What are the names of the dogwoods you mentioned (when we last met). (The nursery) had a lot, but it was hard to tell if they were the ones you mentioned.”

Response:
Two nice twig dogwoods for you to consider are:

Cornus ‘Midwinter Fire’

Cornus ‘Midwinter Fire’: Yellow branches at the ground graduate up toward reddish-orange tips add brilliant twiggy color in winter. The shrub leaves can range from chartreuse to orangish to green.

Cornus alba ‘Elegantissima’: Red twigs with green and cream leaves in summer. The variegated leaves are particularly nice I a dark, shady garden corner as they will add brightness in the summer months while the red twigs will pop out against an evergreen backdrop in winter.

One thing to avoid is planting these two together. It will look polka-dotty. Select one for one area of the garden and another for another area of the garden. Keep in mind they will mature to 6’-8’ tall and suckering in width.

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Gardening with Colors in the Snow

Monday, January 28th, 2008

Cotoneaster berries in snowThis winter I’m acutely aware of plants that are providing winter interest through berries, blooms, fragrance, colorful foliage and interesting texture. Many clients keep talking about how boring their gardens are when everything is “dead”. I remind them that most isn’t truly dead but instead is growing actively underground. This provides them some relief that they didn’t kill their garden. Witchhazel in full bloom in snowBut, what provides the biggest thrill to them (and to me) is pointing out the opportunities to make sure their garden is interesting even when other gardens appear dead.

Today I woke up to a light blanket of snow in my garden. Before the melt began, I got out and snapped a couple of photos illustrating the beautiful plants that offer spectacular winter visual interest even on a snowy late January day. (Not to mention the great fragrance put out by the Witch Hazel!)

Enjoy!

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Winter Food for Hummingbirds

Thursday, January 10th, 2008

Witch Hazel in Bloom, 2008As I walked from my driveway into my back door, I received a two-fold reward for my efforts in building winter interest into my garden.

First, I heard the distinctive chirp of a hummingbird. I couldn’t find him with my eyes, but was in my garden. I have lured him with my plantings and my lack of pesticides. You see, he seeks nectar and small insects in his diet.

Second, his lures caught both my eye and my nose. My witchhazel is in full bloom, and he knows it. Even on cold, grey winter days, you can’t miss this plant in the garden. Its yellow blooms brighten the day and its fragrance perfumes the back garden. I wish you could scratch and sniff right now!

When the witchhazel fades, my friend the hummingbird will not be without food in my garden. Warmer days later in winter will bring gnat hatches offering him tiny bits of protein. Small flowered hardy fuchsia still bloom on my front porch. (And yes, I have seen him that close to the front door. Hummingbirds are daredevils!) Flowering winter currants are starting to shed their outer bud cases, getting ready to open in just a few short weeks. After that, the garden becomes a free-for-all of spectacular blooms, promising hummingbirds who didn’t stick around through winter will be jealously trying to take away my chirping winter friend’s hard-earned territory.

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