Archive for the ‘Guest Blogger’ Category

Growing A Horticultural Skillset at Lake Washington Technical College – A Student Perspective

Tuesday, April 13th, 2010

Lake Washington Technical College Horticulture student Anne Nelson is also a Garden Mentors inc client. She was intrigued by what Garden Mentors offers; she is also an enthusiastic gardener.

A Beautiful Groundcover or Trailer Fuchsia I Can't Resist

A Beautiful Groundcover or Trailer Fuchsia I Can't Resist

So, she decided to take her gardening education up a notch and entered the LWTC horticulture program, which I also attended (and loved) several years ago.

Among many other horty-smart things, students in this program learn how to grow and care for a wide range of plants, which they sell in the Spring over the course of two weekends. (Dates and details on the sale here.) Students seed, dibble, plug, pinch, root, pot up, and much more to prep for the sale. It’s fun. It’s exhausting. It’s rewarding. And, it is a fantastic education.

(I swore when I left the program that I’d never have, grow or want another fuchsia. Turns out, that’s not true. Now I have a small collection of hardy ones that require little fussing.)

In the following article, Anne, shares her student perspective. -Thanks Anne!

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Guest Blogger & Arborist Katy on the Spiritual Side of Trees

Tuesday, November 17th, 2009

Guest Blogger Katy Krokower on a few reasons to appreciate trees…oh to have a chance to climb a tall, tall tree and find some peace there:

So, I missed the boat blogging about trees on Climate Change Day but hey, there’s really no time like the present to remind you what they are doing for you as you go about your busy day: Retaining water, converting carbon dioxide, lowering your heating and cooling bills – all this and more, while you’re busy sucking up your morning coffee! (more…)

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Guest Blogger Susan Maki on Selecting the Right Rose

Tuesday, May 5th, 2009

Today Gardenhelp.org is thrilled to welcome Susan Maki (bio here) to our list of garden writers. Susan is a well-rounded professional garden educator, garden coach and especially a rose fanatic. I can’t wait to learn more from her experience and knowledge around rose gardening! Please join me in welcoming Susan and enjoy her first of many forthcoming articles. Thanks Susan! – Robin

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Susan Maki, Rose Enthusiast

Susan Maki, Rose Enthusiast

Early spring poses a big threat to my pocketbook. Why? Simply because nurseries are stocking hundreds of healthy new roses just begging to go home to my garden. It’s seductive, really. Most roses are pushing new growth with a lovely reddish glow, and the photos on the signs above these displays highlight the amazing blossoms that are the reward to the gardener who succumbs and takes them home. It’s enough to make me quiver.

But the question is: How are we to be sure that these rose bushes will actually perform and survive in our gardens?

Here are a few of my favorites that are successful in my Sammamish garden (and it gets cold here):

  • One of my favorite roses is a floribunda named after acclaimed chef Julia Childs. It offers great disease resistance, and a profusion of creamy yellow flowers all summer. Just like many of her recipes, this rose is full-proof and delicious.
  • I must admit that I love white roses. Full Sail has an amazing fragrance, and as long as it has good sun it’s very easy to grow. I love to cut these roses and bring them into the house where their fragrance fills the air. Glanis Castle is a hardy, but thorny, selection. Its flowers have a slight pink tinge, and they have weathered a little shade in my garden. For a climber that’s both well-behaved and disease resistant, try Lace Cascade. I’ve moved this bush several times because of the shade from fast-growing red maples, and it just doesn’t seem to care. Each year I am rewarded with lovely white roses from this bush with no fuss.
  • If you love the flowers but can do without the pungent fragrance, try Heaven on Earth. It’s peach colored flowers are truly heavenly, and last when cut and brought indoors. If the peach color beckons you, but you want a heady fragrance, I would recommend Honey Perfume. The apricot color and wonderful fragrance make this rose a must for my garden. For easy care, fragrance and knock-out color, Charles Darwin is a real winner. I have neglected two of these roses, and they just don’t seem to care. Survival of the fittest, indeed.
  • If you are new to roses, and want a great beginner bush, I would purchase any of the Knock-Out roses. The two that have done well for me are both pink – one blush and the other magenta. Any of the roses in this series are disease resistant and forgiving of poor soil and neglect.

I have often said to friends that it’s hard to kill a rose, and I stand by the statement. They are truly tough plants that reward gardeners with stunning blooms from June to first frost, and come in so many colors and shapes that there is sure to be one for every garden.

Good luck, and have fun ambling down the rose isles of your favorite nursery! Get in touch here if you’re interested in setting up a rose-focused or Seattle-east-side garden mentoring session with Susan!

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Arborist Katy on Wooly Adelgid Management in Mountain Hemlocks

Friday, April 10th, 2009

Tracy from Federal Way, WA writes:

“Our Mountain Hemlock has an Adelgid infestation. It is all over the middle tree but will probably spread to the others.

What do you suggest for treatment?

I have Neem oil and “Safer” insect killing soap. I also have some Fertilome products – Fungicide ornamental and evergreen spray though I don’t like what the warnings are on the label.

I am also thinking I should treat the other like trees in the back just in case.”

Katy took this question on and answers:

Interesting.

When I first moved to Seattle in 1997 I worked at the Seattle Arboretum,  and there was an employee who was always on about monitoring the Wooly adelgid and who was convinced it was bringing down the native Hemlock  (Tsuga heterophylla) population. Since that time I actually haven’t seen much of it around Bainbridge Island or Seattle.

I called Randall Hitchen, curator at the Arboretum to discuss this case. He was surprised to hear of the adelgid hitting the Mountain Hemlock enough that it was making a problem and so was I. Although we may have lost a bit of the touch for smaller urban gardens where you might only have that one tree, stare at it all the time and it actually makes a significant difference to the landscape whether it thrives or not (he works in a 214 acre garden, and I live on an acre of wooded land) both he and I agreed that adelgids usually don’t usually bring down this kind of Hemlock.

It led us muse about a couple things: How old are the trees? Is it causing severe defoliation or foliar problems or are they at an acceptable level for the client? Is there anything else stressing the trees out to make them more susceptible to an adelgid attack? Is the client ok with spraying? It might be that they actually need a one-time “good hygiene” spray. I was also interested to hear that other kinds of Hemlock (some other cultivars and ornamental type) really don’t tend to succumb to the adelgid.

Both he and I agreed that we wouldn’t go so far as recommending any kind of spray product. Not only do products often change names, we aren’t licensed applicators. Also one shouldn’t ever treat other nearby trees “just in case”. Not only is random spraying a waste of money, there is no sense introducing more pesticides or herbicides into your landscape (and neighborhood and drains and to the Puget Sound) if your trees really don’t need it. Just-in-case spraying is not like a human taking Airborne before taking a flight.

Finally, ask your applicator when you are supposed to spray for the problem you have. If the bug is dormant or at a stage in its lifecycle that won’t be affected by spray there is, again, no sense in spraying.

So that’s a lot of “don’ts” but do call a CPH, certified Arborist or someone identify if your other trees have a problem or not. Be an informed and savvy client who doesn’t knee-jerk into spending money on a spray that might not work. And finally, don’t worry! If your tree does succumb, you have other hemlock species options that you could put in its place if you just need that look in your garden. Good luck! Katy

(As Katy notes in her message above, for-fee pesticide applications and pesticide recommendations made in the state of Washington may only be made by licensed, registered pesticide applicators with active licenses. Yes, a homeowner can go buy anything off the shelf and do basically whatever s/he wants with it, but professionals can’t provide any such service legally without a license. Sure, we may know better even without a license, but we’re more regulated than homeowners who may try to apply a fungicide where a pesticide makes more sense or where nothing at all is required. But, that’s a post for another day. -Robin)

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Garden Construction Coach Helps Solve Fencing Problem

Tuesday, April 7th, 2009

Katy and Ben from Bainbridge Island, WA have constructed a nearly see-through fence to baffle the deer that mow their veggie beds given half a chance. The fence itself is working, but Katy and Ben faced a DIYer’s challenge of how to create a functional gate to work with their innovative fence. They write:

“Dear Garden Mentor and Garden Mentor builder:

Visible but Deer-Proofed Edible Garden

See-Through Fence Provides Deer-Proofed Edible Garden

Help! We have a veggie garden problem that perhaps you can help solve. Our enclosure is staked with posts of rebar. At ground level we wrapped chicken wire which is also dug in about 6 inches below ground level to avoid trenching animals. Attached to the top of the chicken wire is strong bird netting which is almost invisible in the photo as well as real life. We recently replaced the two rebar gate posts with sturdy round wooden stakes which are solid enough to hold a light gate attached to them. . Our problem is a finding a gate design that is light enough as well as not too visually different than the original design. We’ve tried making a lath frame with bird netting, just bird netting and other things that haven’t worked. I just saw this gate that looks similar to what we were going for but at 200+ bucks I had to laugh. We’re at our wits end and were hoping you might have some clever light solutions that are visually, well, invisible, as well as light and easy to put together. Thanks!

Katy and Ben”

Garden building enthusiast and garden help guest blogger Bob took this one on and suggests:

Unbraced Gate Poles

Unbraced Gate Poles

Looking at the pictures, I think part of the problem is probably the fact that single posts are not strong enough to hold a gate off it.  Since these are not 4×4 posts and just poles and probably not sunk in too far, I bet when you tried to screw something heavy like a gate, the pole leans over? I would suggest putting a 2×4 or 2×2 across the top and connect the two posts at the top and you might even consider maybe another along the bottom. This should help keep the posts rigid enough to support a gate.

From the look of the setup, it looks like you don’t need a really strong or even big gate. I’d suggest using 2×2 and get some strong tie corner brackets to make a square/gate. Something like corner bracket RTA2Z pictured here . You should be able to find these parts any hardware store.  Or you could just use some 3″ L brackets in each corner. That is all I used for my cold frame lids. Then you can just cut the wood to length and butt them to each other and use the metal ties to hold it together.

No need for special joints. Once you have the square gate, then staple the bird netting on one side and then use simple/basic hinges. You could small gate hinges or just regular 2 or 3 inch galvanized square hinges.

Depending on how large of a square you make for the gate, you might need to cross brace it. Either run another 2×2 diagonally or you can use wire cable.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for sharing your challenge with us Katy and Ben. And, as always, thanks Bob for providing solution ideas to the gardening community!

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