Guest Blogger Katy Krokower on a few reasons to appreciate trees…oh to have a chance to climb a tall, tall tree and find some peace there:
So, I missed the boat blogging about trees on Climate Change Day but hey, there’s really no time like the present to remind you what they are doing for you as you go about your busy day: Retaining water, converting carbon dioxide, lowering your heating and cooling bills – all this and more, while you’re busy sucking up your morning coffee! (more…)
Today Gardenhelp.org is thrilled to welcome Susan Maki (bio here) to our list of garden writers. Susan is a well-rounded professional garden educator, garden coach and especially a rose fanatic. I can’t wait to learn more from her experience and knowledge around rose gardening! Please join me in welcoming Susan and enjoy her first of many forthcoming articles. Thanks Susan! – Robin
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Susan Maki, Rose Enthusiast
Early spring poses a big threat to my pocketbook. Why? Simply because nurseries are stocking hundreds of healthy new roses just begging to go home to my garden. It’s seductive, really. Most roses are pushing new growth with a lovely reddish glow, and the photos on the signs above these displays highlight the amazing blossoms that are the reward to the gardener who succumbs and takes them home. It’s enough to make me quiver.
But the question is: How are we to be sure that these rose bushes will actually perform and survive in our gardens?
Here are a few of my favorites that are successful in my Sammamish garden (and it gets cold here):
I have often said to friends that it’s hard to kill a rose, and I stand by the statement. They are truly tough plants that reward gardeners with stunning blooms from June to first frost, and come in so many colors and shapes that there is sure to be one for every garden.
Good luck, and have fun ambling down the rose isles of your favorite nursery! Get in touch here if you’re interested in setting up a rose-focused or Seattle-east-side garden mentoring session with Susan!
Tracy from Federal Way, WA writes:
“Our Mountain Hemlock has an Adelgid infestation. It is all over the middle tree but will probably spread to the others.
What do you suggest for treatment?
I have Neem oil and “Safer” insect killing soap. I also have some Fertilome products – Fungicide ornamental and evergreen spray though I don’t like what the warnings are on the label.
I am also thinking I should treat the other like trees in the back just in case.”
Katy took this question on and answers:
Interesting.
When I first moved to Seattle in 1997 I worked at the Seattle Arboretum, and there was an employee who was always on about monitoring the Wooly adelgid and who was convinced it was bringing down the native Hemlock (Tsuga heterophylla) population. Since that time I actually haven’t seen much of it around Bainbridge Island or Seattle.
I called Randall Hitchen, curator at the Arboretum to discuss this case. He was surprised to hear of the adelgid hitting the Mountain Hemlock enough that it was making a problem and so was I. Although we may have lost a bit of the touch for smaller urban gardens where you might only have that one tree, stare at it all the time and it actually makes a significant difference to the landscape whether it thrives or not (he works in a 214 acre garden, and I live on an acre of wooded land) both he and I agreed that adelgids usually don’t usually bring down this kind of Hemlock.
It led us muse about a couple things: How old are the trees? Is it causing severe defoliation or foliar problems or are they at an acceptable level for the client? Is there anything else stressing the trees out to make them more susceptible to an adelgid attack? Is the client ok with spraying? It might be that they actually need a one-time “good hygiene” spray. I was also interested to hear that other kinds of Hemlock (some other cultivars and ornamental type) really don’t tend to succumb to the adelgid.
Both he and I agreed that we wouldn’t go so far as recommending any kind of spray product. Not only do products often change names, we aren’t licensed applicators. Also one shouldn’t ever treat other nearby trees “just in case”. Not only is random spraying a waste of money, there is no sense introducing more pesticides or herbicides into your landscape (and neighborhood and drains and to the Puget Sound) if your trees really don’t need it. Just-in-case spraying is not like a human taking Airborne before taking a flight.
Finally, ask your applicator when you are supposed to spray for the problem you have. If the bug is dormant or at a stage in its lifecycle that won’t be affected by spray there is, again, no sense in spraying.
So that’s a lot of “don’ts” but do call a CPH, certified Arborist or someone identify if your other trees have a problem or not. Be an informed and savvy client who doesn’t knee-jerk into spending money on a spray that might not work. And finally, don’t worry! If your tree does succumb, you have other hemlock species options that you could put in its place if you just need that look in your garden. Good luck! Katy
(As Katy notes in her message above, for-fee pesticide applications and pesticide recommendations made in the state of Washington may only be made by licensed, registered pesticide applicators with active licenses. Yes, a homeowner can go buy anything off the shelf and do basically whatever s/he wants with it, but professionals can’t provide any such service legally without a license. Sure, we may know better even without a license, but we’re more regulated than homeowners who may try to apply a fungicide where a pesticide makes more sense or where nothing at all is required. But, that’s a post for another day. -Robin)
Katy and Ben from Bainbridge Island, WA have constructed a nearly see-through fence to baffle the deer that mow their veggie beds given half a chance. The fence itself is working, but Katy and Ben faced a DIYer’s challenge of how to create a functional gate to work with their innovative fence. They write:
“Dear Garden Mentor and Garden Mentor builder:
See-Through Fence Provides Deer-Proofed Edible Garden
Help! We have a veggie garden problem that perhaps you can help solve. Our enclosure is staked with posts of rebar. At ground level we wrapped chicken wire which is also dug in about 6 inches below ground level to avoid trenching animals. Attached to the top of the chicken wire is strong bird netting which is almost invisible in the photo as well as real life. We recently replaced the two rebar gate posts with sturdy round wooden stakes which are solid enough to hold a light gate attached to them. . Our problem is a finding a gate design that is light enough as well as not too visually different than the original design. We’ve tried making a lath frame with bird netting, just bird netting and other things that haven’t worked. I just saw this gate that looks similar to what we were going for but at 200+ bucks I had to laugh. We’re at our wits end and were hoping you might have some clever light solutions that are visually, well, invisible, as well as light and easy to put together. Thanks!
Katy and Ben”
Garden building enthusiast and garden help guest blogger Bob took this one on and suggests:
Unbraced Gate Poles
Looking at the pictures, I think part of the problem is probably the fact that single posts are not strong enough to hold a gate off it. Since these are not 4×4 posts and just poles and probably not sunk in too far, I bet when you tried to screw something heavy like a gate, the pole leans over? I would suggest putting a 2×4 or 2×2 across the top and connect the two posts at the top and you might even consider maybe another along the bottom. This should help keep the posts rigid enough to support a gate.
From the look of the setup, it looks like you don’t need a really strong or even big gate. I’d suggest using 2×2 and get some strong tie corner brackets to make a square/gate. Something like corner bracket RTA2Z pictured here . You should be able to find these parts any hardware store. Or you could just use some 3″ L brackets in each corner. That is all I used for my cold frame lids. Then you can just cut the wood to length and butt them to each other and use the metal ties to hold it together.
No need for special joints. Once you have the square gate, then staple the bird netting on one side and then use simple/basic hinges. You could small gate hinges or just regular 2 or 3 inch galvanized square hinges.
Depending on how large of a square you make for the gate, you might need to cross brace it. Either run another 2×2 diagonally or you can use wire cable.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for sharing your challenge with us Katy and Ben. And, as always, thanks Bob for providing solution ideas to the gardening community!
Today a big tree fell in our yard. I didn’t hear it.
Katy's Fallen Tree - That Was Close!
I was simply taking some food waste to the compost and there it was in all its glory, on the ground. I have to say that my first reaction was, “Huh, I have to figure out why that happened.” My second reaction was “Holy crap that came close to the house!”.
Just looking and observing trees for any length of time can get you thinking, well, should hopefully get you thinking. As I stood there peering at it (think Sherlock Holmes) I came to the conclusion that the lesson to be learned was that trees really don’t live in a bubble. They don’t have a clue about property boundaries. This tree actually fell from our neighbors property and I have to say I did the classic double take of thinking I’d never even seen that tree before and I look at my trees A LOT. I found this slightly amusing because I’m always peering around the corner, over the fence or across the street to see who or what else is affected (or affecting) the specimen I’m evaluating at a client’s house. This failure just gently reminded me to keep that up.
So if you’re wondering about your trees, don’t forget to take a broader look at what else is around when you are musing your way through the garden. You might just see something that catches your eye that’s news to you!
Guest Blogger Katy Krokower offers us a better understanding of various kinds of tree care professionals:
Consulting Arborist, Katy, at Work
Proper tree care is an investment that can lead to substantial returns. Well managed trees are attractive and can add considerable value to your property. Poorly maintained trees can be a significant liability. You might be starting to see why the decision to hire a tree care company should not be taken lightly.
An arborist by definition is an individual who is trained in the art and science of planting, caring for, and maintaining individual trees. Certified arborists have achieved a level of knowledge in the area and science of tree care through at least three years experience and have passed a comprehensive examination developed by some of the nation’s leading tree care experts. They must continue their education to maintain their certification.
There is a difference between a “commercial arborist” and a “consulting arborist”. Most commercial tree care companies provide a wide range of arboriculture services such as tree pruning, removal, fertilization, problem diagnosis, and other tree care tasks. Most consulting arborists provide a wide range of consulting arboriculture services, such as hazard tree assessment, tree appraisal, expert witness testimony, problem diagnosis, management plan recommendations, and other consulting tasks.
Commercial Arborist Removing Tree
The main difference between the two is that a consulting arborist will spend typically more time on a tree or site assessment, may perform diagnostic testing, and go into much greater detail than a commercial arborist, who specializes in the physical care of your trees. The consultant’s product is usually a report of findings and recommendations, whereas the product of a commercial arborist is the pruning, removal, cabling or other treatment performed for a tree.
If you have tree concerns think about why it may be valuable to hire someone to talk about the problems they see without having a vested interest in getting you to pay for the services. While some consultants are affiliated with a tree care service, most are not. Here on Bainbridge Island and outside of large cities it may be hard to find a consultant who is not affiliated with a tree care company but it’s worth your time to investigate.
You can find out more information about consulting arborists by visiting the American Society of Consulting Arborists or the Pacific Northwest chapter of the ISA.
Winter View of Norie's Moss Garden
Just a quick update: HGTV will be running an episode of A Gardener’s Diary featuring Norie and her fantastic, famous moss garden tomorrow, Thursday January 22, 2009, 7am (eastern), 6am (central), 5am (mountain) 7am pacific. Check your local listings for the show entitled “Mad About Moss” to be sure you don’t miss it!
Congrats Norie!
New Guest Blogger Katy Krokower, a certified risk assessment arborist, submits her first Garden Help article. I’m thrilled that Katy will be offering her expert observations, opinions and ponderings to the Garden Help Community. – Thanks Katy! Robin
…and now Katy’s post…
Katy Touring Bloedel Reserve on Bainbridge Island, WA
Ok, I admit it. I’m a little afraid of my trees when it’s windy. My name is Katy Krokower and I’m a consulting arborist. A large part of my job involves putting client’s fears to rest while educating about proper tree care. The point of hiring someone like me is to help you on your way putting to rest your concerns about trees. So, if I’m a “professional” why am I still nervous?
No matter how many assessments I can give my trees (mine= once a day in unusually windy weather) conditions can always change, even day to day. Plus, add the concept of “accumulated stress” into the mix and things get even more interesting. Tree stresses may be very dramatic and obvious or in many cases not easily observed or recognized. Obvious signs of damage may include trunk or storm damage while stresses from grade changes, soil compaction or pollution are not very visible. Since trees have an accumulated growth habit, they often do not display immediate responses to stress. The phenomenon of accumulated stress is why it can be difficult to determine how long a stressed tree has to live.
A good example of this concept is a homeowner living in a brand new subdivision carved out from a forest remnant noticing that their trees are “suddenly dying”. Especially if the trees are located near the new home, it is often a sad but sure bet that all summer a piece of heavy machinery parked under that tree for shade all summer causing the soil to become compacted. Of course the he signs and symptoms of stress don’t usually show up until the housing is complete and the development crew has long gone.
However, shoving uncertainty aside I will stress again that the point of my whole career is to aleve fear of trees through education and giving sound advice. Tree risk assessment involves inspecting every facet of a tree from root to shoot. A consultant who has ISA, ASCA or TRACE training is at least minimally qualified to be able to make a reasonable judgment of the hazards your tree might have has. We use cutting edge information to make an assessment in a professional manner. Just because I’m experimenting in my own yard with my own trees doesn’t mean I’ll do the same to yours!
Concerned about your trees and want to learn more about Katy or contact her? Go here for more info. on Katy Krokower and Gardenvision.net
In February of 2008 I enjoyed a tour of Norie Burnet’s beautiful mossy garden in Virginia. Recently, an anonymous reader found my post about my time in Norie’s garden and wrote in with questions for Norie. Generously, Norie agreed to answer them as a Garden Help Guest Blogger so that all readers will have the chance to learn from her. Enjoy everyone & thanks Norie!
Question: (I) toured the lovely garden of Nori Burnett…(and) want to create somethiing similar. ..Is winter the time to blow the leaves from under my trees so moss can grow better or should I wait for spring? I bought the electric leaf blower as she suggested and it is great but want to expand the moss area-so when do I remove the leaves??
Moss & Lichen on a Seattle Tree
Norie’s Answer: First of all, let me say how delighted I am that you continue your interest in these little bryophytes. I’m glad you purchased that electric leaf blower, which is the best way to remove leaves and woodland debris from the moss. Yes, winter is a fine time to do this because moss needs light and air circulation in order to flourish. It languishes when covered too long by leaves or debris. Also, the exposed ground will encourage the tiny spores and bits and pieces of moss to grow as well. Raking is not a good idea, because it disrupts the tender growth. Mosses, as you know, are non systemic and have no roots, just little rhizoids that help it cling to the soil and often rocks or logs too. Any time of the year is good for blowing off the moss, because trees and winds constantly tend to deposit al sorts of offerings. Caring for moss can be as labor intensive as grass,but the results are so much lovelier and also in sync with Mother Nature. Hope this answers your question. Norie Burnet “Moss Lady”
If you’d like to take a tour through Norie’s Garden, I suggest checking out HGTV’s Gardener’s Diary, which featured Norie’s garden and will “Mad About Moss” occassionally. Looks like January 22, 2009 at 7am is the next scheduled airing, so set your DVR now!
If you have a moss-related question, please feel free to submit it here, and we’ll do our best to provide useful answers.
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