Archive for the ‘Garden Maintenance’ Category

The 2010 January Seattle Winter Garden

Thursday, January 21st, 2010

Today, at the end of January, we’re having a week to remember. Record high daytime temperatures even, on a few days, under clear sunny skies. After wrapping up my handouts and PowerPoint presentation on Ornamedibles for the Northwest Flower and Garden Show in February,  I got out in the garden to get caught up on a few chores. I certainly have many more to complete before Spring really arrives, but for now, here are a few things you might try to accomplish while the days are warm and dry and your plants are still dormant:

Dwarf Laceleaf Japanese Maple in Fall

Dwarf Laceleaf Japanese Maple in Fall

Pruning: Yep, now is a fantastic time to get out and prune your woody plants. Without leaves in place, it is easy to see any broken, crossing, downward-facing, or rubbing branches. In my own garden, I dropped a few crotches off my Acer triflorum to create new leaders, encouraging the plant to grow in directions away from the utility lines it is early reaching these days. As well, I trimmed out some crossing and rubbing branches on my dwarf Japanese Maple and my Heptacodium. And, I pruned out some Viburnum carlesii branches that were growing toward the house (yes, I’m giving up some lovely blooms that will shortly open, but I had the time and the access, so cut I did!).

Cut back Perennials: If you didn’t get it done in fall, now is a good time to walk through your beds and cut down the bits and pieces of perennials that have died back. On warm dry days your beds are less likely to become compacted by your footsteps. When the ground is frozen or soggy, your good clean up works may detrimentally impact your planting beds. Today in my garden I cut a couple of Miscanthus to the ground, chopped down spent lily and Phygelius stalks, and cut back the more withered semi-evergreen fern fronds.

Miscanthus in Autumn

Miscanthus in Autumn

Raking & Mulching: Honestly, I didn’t get to this today. Since I didn’t have mulch on hand, I held off on doing a full raking of all my leaves. It may be warm now, but it is still January and another freeze could happen. I did rake up some materials, but I left leaf duff in place to continue to deter weed growth while also adding nutrients to the soil, protecting soil microbia habitat, and protecting roots. When I do find the time to load up my truck with mulch, I’ll start really raking those leaves up, pulling weeds and protecting my cleaned beds with a fresh layer of composted organic mulch material.

Pull weeds: This is another work item I noted but didn’t do today. Most of my beds are fairly well protected with leaf duff or mulch, so not too many weed seedlings are showing up yet. Still, I did see quite a few rosettes of shotweed popping up here and there. Soon, if this weather keeps up, I won’t be able to continue to ignore them.

Breath deeply: Or at least pay attention to what’s in bloom. My own Witchhazel is beginning to fade just this week — the weather is a bit too warm for it. Hellebores are starting to really show their stuff. Camellia sasanqua are still popping open here and there. Sarcococca is almost too much to take each time I open the back door, but it still smells like spring is almost here. And, it may not be fully blooming yet, but I noticed a petticoat of yellow on my Azara,  promising chocolate fragrance is soon to be wafting through the garden.

Step carefully: Bulbs are coming up. Tender perennials are sending up shoots. The garden is coming to life. Mark your bulb locations when you find them and tread lightly so you don’t damage tender new growth.

More than anything, if you’re in Seattle, find the time to get outside right now. If you’re an office worker, take the time to walk in a park at lunch. Or heck, just ditch. Life’s too short to miss spring-time in midwinter!

  • Share/Bookmark

Is Your Garden Ready for a Freeze?

Friday, November 13th, 2009

The cold wind blowing and the churning furnace pouring out warm air woke me early this November morning. Rain is hammering out of the sky, blown in circles by heavy winds near the planet surface driving it noisily into window panes.

Frozen Branches

Frozen Branches

And, weather reporters are warning snow may follow the morning downpours. Although I doubt we’ll see snow in the city, these reports — coupled with the ice we’re seeing on early-morning windshields — reminds me to get a few last minute freeze-proofing chores done this morning.

Hopefully, these tips will help you get ready as well. Who knows? Now that I said I doubt it will snow, it probably will send down a few flurries around town just to prove me wrong. (more…)

  • Share/Bookmark

Thumbs Up to Raking!

Tuesday, November 3rd, 2009

I’ve been pretty impressed with the number of rakes I’ve seen around the neighborhood this year. On a typical 30 minute dog walk this weekend, I passed several homeowners doing fall clean up.

Crepe Myrtle Leaves Soon to Join the Mulch Pile

Crepe Myrtle Leaves Soon to Join the Mulch Pile

And, not one of them was using a petrol-hungry, pollution spewing blower to clean up fallen leaves. Instead, families and neighbors were raking piles together. Kids were jumping into the piles. And, in a few cases, people were even mounding nutrient-rich fallen leaves on planting beds to protect and enhance beds over the winter. Sure, this might make for some tasty slug habitat, but it’s a simple way to bring a little permaculture to our own gardens.

Seeing all these healthy, happy families reminded me to encourage you to pull out the rake instead of the pollution machine for most — if not all — of your autumn leaves. (more…)

  • Share/Bookmark

Perennial Dig ‘n Split Party

Wednesday, October 28th, 2009

Looking for a fun garden party idea for fall? Sure, the garden may look a little weary after all the leaves have fallen and perennials have faded to the ground in preparation for winter. But, this is the perfect time to invite friends to join you in the garden to divide perennials from your overflowing beds. Read on for more ideas:

(more…)

  • Share/Bookmark

Garden Coach on Removing Grass with Little Effort by Sheet Mulching

Monday, October 26th, 2009

When I meet with a new garden coaching client, I always come armed with information on caring for lawns lawns in sustainable ways. However, these days I find myself pulling that information out of my client packets and exchanging it for information on how to remove lawns. Reducing lawns in favor of lower maintenance, more sustainable options has been on the increase — significantly so in 2009. Whether they’re looking for groundcover alternatives, new beds or just lower maintenance, sheet mulching makes getting there easy.

Thyme is a lovely, dog-friendly lawn alternative

Thyme is a lovely, dog-friendly lawn alternative

Fall is my favorite time to begin lawn removal programs. Why? Well, rain is abundant in the Pacific Northwest. And, we tend to spend less time lounging in the garden during the rainy season, so tearing up our lawn in fall doesn’t impact our day-to-day fun. Plus, at this time, soil microbial activity hasn’t come to a halt. So, by choosing to sheet mulch our lawns this time of year, we are able to opt for a passive removal method. We don’t break out backs with a lot of digging. We don’t run a fuel-hungry sod cutter or roto-tiller. And, we don’t have to find ways to get rid of the lawn we would otherwise dig out. Instead, the lawn nutrients are “tilled” into the soil by soil microbia, which convert this nitrogen rich organic material into forms ready for your spring plantings.

It may take a while for the garden life to complete lawn removal, but the life in the soil does the work for us during the months we’re unlikely to be using our garden. And, leaves are abundant! So, rather than putting them in yard waste or seeing them clog storm drains, collect them up and put them to use in removing your lawn and building beautiful, nutrient-rich new planting beds in time for spring.

Read more about how to remove your lawn and recycle its nutrient value into your garden here: (more…)

  • Share/Bookmark

Managing Weeds in Seattle — Shotweed

Wednesday, October 21st, 2009

In Seattle our cool season annual weeds are popping up their tenacious little heads again this autumn. Among them — Shotweed. It loves our mild temps and gentle, if persistent, autumn rains. Despite being a weed, it can be quite lovely carpeting flower beds in a lovely brilliant spring green. But as lovely as it can be, it is still a weed. So, after introducing a client to it in her own garden earlier this week, I realized it was time to remind all of you gardening readers that this weed is a multi-season menace. As in February when I first posted this article, now’s yet another time to work on clearing it out of your beds. Read more in the original post that follows:

(more…)

  • Share/Bookmark

Caring for Ornamental Grasses in Seattle

Wednesday, September 23rd, 2009
'The Blues' Schizachyrium with Lambs Ear

'The Blues' Schizachyrium with Lambs Ear

Autumn is probably my favorite time of year to really enjoy ornamental grasses. And, by grasses I don’t mean lawn. I do mean ornamental grasses and grass-like plants such as sedges and rushes. Plants like blood grass are brilliant red and showy at this time. Seed heads on Miscanthus are shining and flowing in the breeze (and frost). Little tufts on bunny grasses hop along at the edges of borders. And, hairy carex shimmers, promising interest into the winter ahead.

Well, it promises interest if cared for properly. Too often, all ornamental grasses are treated the same by unknowning humans with scissoring tools in hand. This can cause permanent damage. So to help you wade your way through your grasses, here are some general guidelines. Of course, in each genus there may be exceptions to the rule, but these tips should help you avoid the big mistakes.

  • True Grasses:
    Miscanthus Seed Head Adorned with First Snow

    Miscanthus Seed Head Adorned with First Snow

    True grasses have “elbows” or “joints” where the leaves run down the stems to the ground. They may be clumpers or spreaders, and they do well when cut down at the end of the season. What you define as “the end of the season” is your call. If you enjoy looking at seed heads swaying in the autumn sunlight, then you might wait until after a frost or until mid-winter to cut the plants down. If you are concerned about the plants spreading in the garden after forming and spreading their seed all winter, then you might cut them down earlier.  Grasses like blood grass are easy to snip at individually to remove. Clumps of bunny grass are tight and with a sheet underneath are easy to shear and then pluck out brown old growth. Tall grasses like Miscanthus are best bundled tightly with string and then cut a few inches above the ground but below the tie. This way the bundle comes away in one bunch. Take care, these plants may have sharp edges.

  • Sedges: Sedges have edges and no elbows. They are often mop-like and spreading. Generally, their seed heads aren’t showy.
    Carex testacea intermingling with Euphorbia

    Carex testacea intermingling with Euphorbia

    They do not take kindly to being cut hard. Some will die back for winter. Most ornamental Carex, however, is an evergreen plant that should be combed and very lightly trimmed once or twice a year. I tend to comb mine out in mid-summer and again in fall or winter. After I comb out all the dead and stringy growth and remove any dead clumps, I then bundle the plant in my hands and trim off the dead ends, which should be around 2″ or so of the very tips. Its like giving the plant a little bob haircut. If the plant has been neglected for a long time, the center may be dieing out. In these cases, I dig out the plant to divide it and reinvigorate growth.

  • Rushes: Honestly, I don’t do much with rushes. If they have dead growth, I remove those shoots to the ground. That’s about it.
Carex flagellifera with Lambs Ear

Carex flagellifera with Lambs Ear

This is basic primer barely skims the surface of ornamental grass care. There are many, many more grasses to choose from and care for. Some are weedier than others. Some are sharper and harder to care for than others. And, many are just plain wonderful and not to be missed for their fantastic, unique forms, textures and colors they add to to the garden.  If you aren’t sure which kind of grass plant you have or if you have one that isn’t specifically mentioned here, get in touch for a coaching session for hands on plant care training and identification sessions. Or consider picking up a copy of one of my favorite grass books such as Grasses:Versatile Partners for Uncommon Garden Design or The Color Encyclopedia of Ornamental Grasses.

(This topic was originally published in October 2008 and updated in September 2009.)

  • Share/Bookmark

How To Help Your Garden Beat the Heat

Monday, July 27th, 2009

It’s been hot. Or at least, it’s been hot for Seattle. Remember, we rarely have a long stretch of 80F, let alone the 90F we’ve had lately. Plus, our sunlight hours are long, so the heat really builds up. This leaves me melty and often cranky. It also means I spend some extra time watching my garden for signs of stress and seeking opportunities to keep everything growing happily.

Hot Sunny Seattle Patio & Garden

Hot Sunny Seattle Patio & Garden

When the heat flares up, here are a few helpful hints to keep your garden from completely crashing for the season:

  • Regular & Mid-day watering: Yes, I said it! I don’t encourage you to take up a program of watering any and every garden item mid-day, but if you’re growing cool season edibles like lettuce or if your hydrangeas are crashing in the heat, hitting the leaf surfaces briefly with some cool water mid-day can help reduce crashing and ward off notorious heat-bolting in lettuces. Other than that, keep sticking your finger in the soil to see if your plants need a long, deep soak. I prefer to give these, as needed, in the very early morning.
  • Powdery mildew: Last week this nasty sign of stress began showing up in my own garden as well as many clients’ gardens. Powdery mildew really is a sign of stress. It can happen from too much water, from too little water, from significant day-to-night temperature fluctuations, and from a number of other stressful issues. I have a pretty high tolerance for the stuff on my ornamentals, but when it goes after my edibles, I go after it with a vengeance. Mix up a gallon spray bottle with about a teaspoon of baking soda and a few drops of liquid soap. Spray all surfaces of your infected plant to drench. The soda will burst the mildew spores and the soap will help it stick. (Note: try spraying a few leaves before doing the entire plant; some plants are sensitive to soda. Also, use a phosphate-free soap. Multiple applications may be necessary, and if the mildew has really taken hold, you may be unable to win back your plant. If the mildew starts winning the battle, best to remove your infected plant to keep it from spreading the mildew to other similar plants.)
  • Water features: In the heat, algae can grow like mad in water features. I dismantle mine, as needed, to wash off the algae growths. Too, check them regularly to be sure there’s enough water in them. If you’re running a small, recirculating system, some water is lost to evaporation and to thirsty birds.
  • Harvest those crops: Get out early in the morning and do a daily harvest. Likely, your edibles are really rolling in. Keep harvesting regularly or your crops may stop producing. Harvesting in the morning allows you to cool down your crops before you eat them later in the day; this way you can crisp your lettuce  instead of having a harvest-wilted salad. (caveat: there’s nothing like a warm tomato fresh off the vine!)
  • Under cover: Sometimes there’s nothing more to do for your garden than contrive some shade for touchy plants. In a year when our rains continue later than they did this year, my astilbe (for instance) happily plugs through the sunny days of late summer. In years like this, it is already drying and crisping up. Simply putting up a patio umbrella to protect it from reflected heat can make all the difference.
  • Watering, one more note: When I was in first grade, I entered a contest to draw the best poster illustrating water conservation. I was a hippie kid in the 70s and had some pretty cool ideas including using rain barrels. During the summer, rain barrels are usually long-emptied; there’s nothing falling from the sky (in Seattle) to fill them during our summer drought months. As my contest poster suggested, consider keeping a bucket in your tub. As you heat water to fill the tub or start your shower, catch the water as you wait. If you can’t use it immediately to pour onto a thirsty plant, dump it in your rain barrel to use later. You might be surprised how much water you’ve been wasting down the drain and how quickly you’re able to refill your rain barrels even in mid-summer. Plus, if you’re as heat-exhausted as I’ve been lately, you’re probably taking more than one shower a day this week just to survive.

As I sit here in my west-facing office on the north side of the house, I’m beginning to overheat myself. We have close to 5 more hours of sunlight ahead, 4 of which will be pounding on my office window. After I post this, I’ll be seeking shade and maybe a bit of water for myself.  I wonder where I put my foot tub? Mixing some fresh peppermint in some ice water and dunking my feet in it sounds perfect right about now.

Stay cool folks!

  • Share/Bookmark

Why Not to Hire a Tree Trimmer Who Wears Spikes

Thursday, May 21st, 2009

Yesterday I met with a new client in Seattle. As I walked up to his home, I immediately noticed three Cherry trees in the front parking strip had been topped recently. However, it wasn’t until I was reviewing the back garden that I saw the worst of the tree trimming horrors his garden had sustained. Not only had he hired a crew that was willing to top his trees, but they climbed a cypress in his backyard wearing climbing spikes, which damaged the bark and cambium layer of the tree terribly. When I saw the spiked trunk, at first I thought someone had hit the base of the tree with a car because so much of the lower bark had been torn off. I was wrong; it was the tree workers who did it.

So, why was this dismaying?

First, the living part of the tree is directly below the protective bark layer. This “cambium” layer is where the plant transports nutrients up and down the stem; the bark protects this area. As well, plants don’t heal. So every spike insertion becomes a site for pest and disease. The ripped and torn bark and holes in the cambium and older interior layers will never heal.

Second, the cuts that were made to top the cherries and to “shape” the other trees were made at random points on the stems creating a “shape” to the tree. This may sound just fine. But it isn’t. When you understand that trees do not heal and when you learn that plants have specific points in their growth systems where they can protect themselves from the cuts we make, you better understand how and where to make pruning cuts. Clearly, these trimmers don’t know this. Or, worse, they do know and they just don’t care. Or even worse than that, maybe they do know what they’re doing and they hope that their sloppy work will stimulate new growth (through topping the cherries) and cause decline (through wearing spikes in the cypress) thereby creating more work calls from the client to them in years to come.

Third, really, spike holes and topped trees are just plain ugly.

This Tree was Topped Twice!

This Tree was Topped Twice!

When hiring a tree trimming service, be sure to find out what certifications the service holds. Ideally, hire an ISA-certified, licensed arborist. If the service offers to top your trees, that’s your signal to run away immediately. If they climb using anything other than ropes, saddles and ladders, don’t let them near your tree. Those spikes will cause damage from which your tree may never recover. Just think: you’d be paying to have your trees — your investment in plants — destroyed rather than cared for.

As this client learned the hard way, just because a service is cheap and immediately available doesn’t mean they’re good. In his situation, they sold him on price and convenience saying he’d save a lot if he let them do the work that day because they “had a truck in the neighborhood”.  In the long run, this kind of work saves a homeowner nothing and quite often costs them much more down the road.

Looking for more information on proper pruning and where to find a certified arborist in your area? Find more information here:

  • Plant Amnesty: This organization was formed to teach people to stop topping trees and offers loads of information as well as a referal service for finding trained arborists.
  • ISA: The International Society of Arboriculture provides information on trees, tree care and certification of arborists around the world. This is your go-to spot to find an arborist anywhere on planet earth.
  • Garden Mentors: Interested in learning hands-on about how trees grow and how to prune them yourself? Or, just want to learn how trees should be pruned so you better understand how to hire and manage a tree trimming service? Get in touch for a hands-on garden coaching session now.
  • Share/Bookmark

How Much Time Does a Garden Coach Spend in Her Garden Each Week

Wednesday, May 20th, 2009

Yesterday I was helping a regular client prune several woody shrubs away from a deck she’ll be renovating this summer. The shrub work was long past due, but together we made great progress. As we were working she asked, “Robin, how many hours a week do you spend working in your garden?”

Stone & Filled Beds Make for Easy Summer Care

Stone & Filled Beds Make for Easy Summer Care

Hmmm…that was like getting the job interview question you’re completely unprepared for. Fortunately, I wasn’t interviewing for a job as the question gave me pause. How much time do I spend working in my own garden in a week?

I answered my client honestly. I barely have time and energy left this time of year to get out in my own garden. My hands are exhausted from pruning and weeding and typing and writing all day, so my own weeds flourish and my shrubs thrive despite the work I know I should devote to them.

Fortunately, I’ve invested almost a decade developing my garden, which has a lot of stone work. And, stones don’t require a lot of maintenance. And, my beds are quite full from years of planting, dividing and spreading perennials. Some I regret and now classify in the weed department (Alstromeria & cat mint rules this regret.) Still, I would like to have garden perfection with zero weeds, perfectly coiffed shrubs and pest-free cabbages.  But, time is at a premium. And when free evenings bring lightening storms and hail such as we had last night, I miss out on my rare opportunities to weed away the evening sunlight.

So, to answer the question. I find myself puttering through the garden with coffee each morning most days of the year for a good 30 minutes or so. I visit my potted garden and greenhouse for about 30 minutes a day in spring and summer (at least). I visit my veggie beds daily to harvest (if not to weed and plant and water) for about 20 minutes a day. And, when I have an actual day to really get out there. Well, those are the days I can put in a good 8-10 hours renovating big spaces and making progress pruning those shrubs, pulling those weeds, squashing those slugs and dressing up the finished areas with a nutrious layer of composted mulch. And, of course, I try to wind down sunny evenings sitting in the garden with a glass of wine or iced tea — and odds are, I’ll pull another weed while I’m at it. So shall we say I spend a good hour or two, on an average day, working in the garden (and sometimes quite a bit more.)

Now that I’ve wrapped up this thought, I’m going to escape into my own garden for a rare two hour, mid-day weed-a-thon. Wish me luck!

  • Share/Bookmark