Archive for the ‘garden coach’ Category

Caring for Ornamental Grasses in Seattle

Wednesday, September 23rd, 2009
'The Blues' Schizachyrium with Lambs Ear

'The Blues' Schizachyrium with Lambs Ear

Autumn is probably my favorite time of year to really enjoy ornamental grasses. And, by grasses I don’t mean lawn. I do mean ornamental grasses and grass-like plants such as sedges and rushes. Plants like blood grass are brilliant red and showy at this time. Seed heads on Miscanthus are shining and flowing in the breeze (and frost). Little tufts on bunny grasses hop along at the edges of borders. And, hairy carex shimmers, promising interest into the winter ahead.

Well, it promises interest if cared for properly. Too often, all ornamental grasses are treated the same by unknowning humans with scissoring tools in hand. This can cause permanent damage. So to help you wade your way through your grasses, here are some general guidelines. Of course, in each genus there may be exceptions to the rule, but these tips should help you avoid the big mistakes.

  • True Grasses:
    Miscanthus Seed Head Adorned with First Snow

    Miscanthus Seed Head Adorned with First Snow

    True grasses have “elbows” or “joints” where the leaves run down the stems to the ground. They may be clumpers or spreaders, and they do well when cut down at the end of the season. What you define as “the end of the season” is your call. If you enjoy looking at seed heads swaying in the autumn sunlight, then you might wait until after a frost or until mid-winter to cut the plants down. If you are concerned about the plants spreading in the garden after forming and spreading their seed all winter, then you might cut them down earlier.  Grasses like blood grass are easy to snip at individually to remove. Clumps of bunny grass are tight and with a sheet underneath are easy to shear and then pluck out brown old growth. Tall grasses like Miscanthus are best bundled tightly with string and then cut a few inches above the ground but below the tie. This way the bundle comes away in one bunch. Take care, these plants may have sharp edges.

  • Sedges: Sedges have edges and no elbows. They are often mop-like and spreading. Generally, their seed heads aren’t showy.
    Carex testacea intermingling with Euphorbia

    Carex testacea intermingling with Euphorbia

    They do not take kindly to being cut hard. Some will die back for winter. Most ornamental Carex, however, is an evergreen plant that should be combed and very lightly trimmed once or twice a year. I tend to comb mine out in mid-summer and again in fall or winter. After I comb out all the dead and stringy growth and remove any dead clumps, I then bundle the plant in my hands and trim off the dead ends, which should be around 2″ or so of the very tips. Its like giving the plant a little bob haircut. If the plant has been neglected for a long time, the center may be dieing out. In these cases, I dig out the plant to divide it and reinvigorate growth.

  • Rushes: Honestly, I don’t do much with rushes. If they have dead growth, I remove those shoots to the ground. That’s about it.
Carex flagellifera with Lambs Ear

Carex flagellifera with Lambs Ear

This is basic primer barely skims the surface of ornamental grass care. There are many, many more grasses to choose from and care for. Some are weedier than others. Some are sharper and harder to care for than others. And, many are just plain wonderful and not to be missed for their fantastic, unique forms, textures and colors they add to to the garden.  If you aren’t sure which kind of grass plant you have or if you have one that isn’t specifically mentioned here, get in touch for a coaching session for hands on plant care training and identification sessions. Or consider picking up a copy of one of my favorite grass books such as Grasses:Versatile Partners for Uncommon Garden Design or The Color Encyclopedia of Ornamental Grasses.

(This topic was originally published in October 2008 and updated in September 2009.)

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A Few Random Thoughts from a Busy Garden Coach as we Approach Summer Solstice

Sunday, June 14th, 2009

I haven’t been writing nearly as much as I do during the colder, dormant season. It’s much more fun, and profitable, for me to spend time in the garden rather than writing about the garden. Yet, as I’m looking down the barrel of summer solstice, I want to share a few quick gardening tips that may prove helpful. Solstice marks the time when days following, sadly, start to become shorter. Plants are greatly in tune with this, and your work, based on timing,  can make a huge difference in your gardening successes (and failures):

  • Pinching perennials: Not only will deadheading help extend your flowering season for most perennials, but if you tip back (aka a pinch-to-a-node) late flowering types (Mums, especially) with alternating cuts, you can create bushier plants with more blooms that are less likely to flop over when they get top-heavy with blossoms. But, stop tipping around solstice or you may not get any blooms at all.  If you’re dealing with plants that you don’t want to bloom, like basil, keep on pinchin’!
  • Pruning: Don’t prune plants that bloomed in late winter/early spring or you risk cutting off next winter’s blooms. If you haven’t sheared your hedges, which is best done in late winter/early spring, you’re running out of time. If you shear too late, you risk looking at choppy cuts all winter or forcing soft growth that gets killed in early frosts.
  • Big Harvest in June for the Foodbank

    Big Harvest in June for the Foodbank

    Seeding and Planting: You still have time to seed many hot season crops, but again, your time is running out. Get those last rounds of tomatoes, basil, peppers, squashes and beans in the ground now to extend your harvest period. Plus, now’s the time to start seeding those fall/winter crops to get them ready to set out for winter harvesting — think kale, broccoli, chard and cabbage.

  • Harvest, Eat, Preserve: As your crops roll in, stay on top of harvesting even if that means you end up making sauerkraut in June or giving away lettuce to the foodbank. By doing this, you’ll make room to rotate in new crops and reduce the likelihood of inviting pests and disease and self-seeded bolting crops into the garden by leaving past-their-prime edibles in the soil.

And finally, enjoy these long days. Soon enough we’ll all be wrapped in polar fleece, snuggling near a warm fire, desperately seeking a bloom somewhere to discuss in the many posts we have time to write up during winter. For me, for now, I’m off to put out more mammoth sunflowers, zinnia, basil and late season tomatoes to enjoy into the many remaining months of summer.

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How Much Time Does a Garden Coach Spend in Her Garden Each Week

Wednesday, May 20th, 2009

Yesterday I was helping a regular client prune several woody shrubs away from a deck she’ll be renovating this summer. The shrub work was long past due, but together we made great progress. As we were working she asked, “Robin, how many hours a week do you spend working in your garden?”

Stone & Filled Beds Make for Easy Summer Care

Stone & Filled Beds Make for Easy Summer Care

Hmmm…that was like getting the job interview question you’re completely unprepared for. Fortunately, I wasn’t interviewing for a job as the question gave me pause. How much time do I spend working in my own garden in a week?

I answered my client honestly. I barely have time and energy left this time of year to get out in my own garden. My hands are exhausted from pruning and weeding and typing and writing all day, so my own weeds flourish and my shrubs thrive despite the work I know I should devote to them.

Fortunately, I’ve invested almost a decade developing my garden, which has a lot of stone work. And, stones don’t require a lot of maintenance. And, my beds are quite full from years of planting, dividing and spreading perennials. Some I regret and now classify in the weed department (Alstromeria & cat mint rules this regret.) Still, I would like to have garden perfection with zero weeds, perfectly coiffed shrubs and pest-free cabbages.  But, time is at a premium. And when free evenings bring lightening storms and hail such as we had last night, I miss out on my rare opportunities to weed away the evening sunlight.

So, to answer the question. I find myself puttering through the garden with coffee each morning most days of the year for a good 30 minutes or so. I visit my potted garden and greenhouse for about 30 minutes a day in spring and summer (at least). I visit my veggie beds daily to harvest (if not to weed and plant and water) for about 20 minutes a day. And, when I have an actual day to really get out there. Well, those are the days I can put in a good 8-10 hours renovating big spaces and making progress pruning those shrubs, pulling those weeds, squashing those slugs and dressing up the finished areas with a nutrious layer of composted mulch. And, of course, I try to wind down sunny evenings sitting in the garden with a glass of wine or iced tea — and odds are, I’ll pull another weed while I’m at it. So shall we say I spend a good hour or two, on an average day, working in the garden (and sometimes quite a bit more.)

Now that I’ve wrapped up this thought, I’m going to escape into my own garden for a rare two hour, mid-day weed-a-thon. Wish me luck!

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Garden Coach Gets Schooled

Thursday, May 14th, 2009

Sometimes I need to get out of my own head. By that, I mean, I need to experience a variety of gardens and learn from other gardeners to maintain my edge and gather sparks of new inspiration. This week I’ve had abundant input and will be writing about all of these experiences here at gardenhelp.org in the days ahead.

Today a teaser of what’s to come in future gardenhelp.org writings:

  • Tuckahoe Plantation: I had a unique opportunity to visit Tuckahoe Plantation, the boyhood home of Thomas Jefferson,  and volunteer my time at an event to raise awareness about land conservation in Virginia (and beyond).
  • Agecroft Hall: My cousin, who inspired me to return to school to study horticulture after she had done the same several years ago, introduced me to Sandra, the head gardener of Agecroft. Agecoft Hall is a Tudor Manor built in the 15th century in England; it was purchased, dismantled and shipped to Virginia in the 1920s when it was rebuilt on the banks of the James River. Sandy was kind enough to lead me on a private tour of the gardens on a closed day.
  • Monticello & Michie Tavern: I spent one day outside Charlottesville, VA taking in the history and gardens of Thomas Jefferson’s plantation home, Monticello. I developed quite a bit of garden envy, purchased some native divisions from Jefferson’s own gardens (that I have to give to local Virginia gardening friends), and I picked up heritage seed to take to my own Seattle garden. And, we lunched at Michie (pronounced “Mickey” as in “Mouse”).
  • Graves Mountain Lodge: This lodge is nestled at the base of the Blue Ridge Mountains. During my childhood we travelled to this area to pick up crates of apples and peachs to put up as jams and pies. Getting to enjoy a meal at the historic lodge as always very special. Going as an adult was no let-down either!
  • Winston: Winston, VA is the home of our family’s country store. It’s been owned and managed by family members for many generations. In days gone by it was an important mailstop along the railroad. Today, the potbelly stove is still a gathering place for farmers and family to chew the fat and enjoy a tasty lunch from the deli. My cousin maintains a big veggie garden, a big chicken coop and roses that have been intact longer than the oldest living members of the family can remember.
  • Woodhaven: Woodhaven is a family homestead built in old growth Oak forests by my grandmother’s family — the Woods. The home was hand-built multiple generations ago and is still lovingly maintained and lived in by my cousin. The asparagus patch installed when I was a child still produces. And, the woods of Woodhaven are coming back after being decimated over a decade ago by loggers who took advantage of my elderly aunt and gyspy moth that attacked what remained.
  • Moss Garden: Today I am looking forward to a spring tour of Nori’s Moss garden. It was fantastic when I saw it a couple of years ago in winter; I can’t wait to see it in full mid-spring glory!

There’s your teaser. More information and photos will follow in the weeks ahead. Right now I need to get ready to visit Nori and her moss garden!

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Garden Coach Answers Reader Question About Amending Soil

Thursday, April 30th, 2009

Moe from Orlando, FL writes:

“I have tomatoes and peppers planted- but the soil is the dark gray sandy type. It gets sooo hot- you can’t even step on it barefoot. What can I use to mulch my plants that will absorb the extra heat, and not take their water?”

Early Girl Ready to Harvest Mid-July 2008

Early Girl Ready to Harvest Mid-July 2008

Moe, thanks for writing in with your question. You’ve described your soil texture as sandy, which means nutrients and water likely pass through it very rapidly. So, adding a composted organic mulch material will likely help you hold water and nutrients in the soil a little better. Generally, mulched materials are also dark, so they may also absorb heat as well.

Mulch materials should be at least somewhat mixed with the existing soil before planting. This creates a layer of both the existing “native” soil and your organic matter. If you don’t have a mixed layer between the two, you can end up with a situation called “interfacing”. Water has a tendency to not pass readily from one medium (aka a top layer of mulch) into the next layer of soil (aka your dark sandy stuff). By having a mixture of both between, this will help the water pass through. If you do end up with a soil interface, you may have nice moist mulch on top and dried out sandy soil where the plant roots live.

Before you try to start changing your soil, consider ordering a soil test to understand more about your soil’s nutrient information, pH, potential heavy metal content and more. Once you understand this, you will be better armed to make the best choices to adjust your soil for your chosen plants.  Certainly check your local area for labs near you, or consider sending in your samples to the Umass Soil Testing facility.

Good luck!

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Garden Coach Covers the Garden Favorites Everyone Lost in the 2008 Seattle Winter

Friday, April 24th, 2009

One of the questions I’ve come to expect this spring from my garden coaching clients relates to winter damage: “Is my (insert plant name here or point at a pile of sticks) dead?”

Beautiful Lavender and Rosemary To Replace

Beautiful Lavender and Rosemary To Replace

Consistently, there are a few plants that gave up the ghost after Seattle’s unseasonably cold winter between 2008 and 2009. Many of these plants struggled heartily until the very last freeze, which put the nail in the coffin for them.  If you have any of these plants, and they seem to be dead, they may very well be goners. Try the fingernail test to be sure before you yank them out.

Scratch a small area of the stem and see if it comes up green or brown. If it is green, there may be a bit of life left. If you have patience and tolerance, wait another couple of weeks to see if it begins to leaf out. If it does, you may be able prune out the dead and see your plant bounce back. If the stem is black or brown underneath the bark layer, it is probably dead. However, some plants may have died back completely on top but will bounce back from the roots. So, check the lowest portion of cane grower branches before you tear out the plant. There may be some new growth coming off the base or from the root system. These hearty, hard-hit plants may be beaten down, but they aren’t beaten. With some gardener TLC and patience, they’ll probably spring back over the next season — even if they aren’t quite as vigorous as before.

Will I stop using these plants in the garden after so many dieing this winter? Not likely. Most are fantastic landscape plants that consistently perform well in the Seattle area. I may change my mind if we continue to lose these each winter going forward, but for now, I still think there’s a place for these lost companions in our gardens.

RIP (aka rip it please, replace if pooped, and of course, rest in peace):

  • Lavender: Spanish, English, French. You name it, most kicked the can this winter. Some are broken in the middle and half alive.  Readily available in the trade and not terribly expensive, this might be a good plant to replace.
  • Rosemary: Trailing and upright. Old and newly planted. I’ve seen tree forms and wall trailers all gone kaput. As with lavender, they’re not-to0-pricey and readily available at nurseries.
  • Ceanothus: Every big, upright tree version I’ve seen since winter has died. Low, groundcover forms seem to be fine. Some younger shrubby ones are heavily defoliated but will likely bounce back.
  • New Zealand Flax: Flattened octopus is how I’d describe them. The tiny, dwarf varieties seem to have made it. The giant forms and the heavily variegated forms crashed consistently. Try digging them up and/or cutting them hard before you completely give up. There may be life in there yet. It’s just going to take some time for them to bounce back.
  • Daphne: Most are blooming, but they took a heavy defoliation hit this year. I’m waiting to see how/if they’ll come back for use after the bloom season is complete.
  • Erysimum: Mine gave up early and became a tumbleweed in the garden. This is a plant that usually gets replaced after a few years in the garden anyway, so this is the year to swap in new ones.
  • Heavenly bamboo: I’m seeing a mixed performance with these Nandina. Some are completely dead. Some died to the ground and are sending up new canes this spring. Some just defoliated heavily. I lost one gulf stream while another very nearby did just fine, and they’re the same age. Check yours carefully. This cane grower may surprise you yet.
  • Rose: Mixed bag here, too. Some did fine until the very end. Others just gave up. Some are sending up new canes, but from below the graft point, so they may not be the hybrid beauties from years past.
  • Fatsia: I’ve seen a few completely die back. I’ve cut a few hard to living bud points, and they seem to be coming back. It’s slow going, but hopefully not a complete loss.
  • Evergreen Magnolia: Sadly, I think the last freeze may have done these in. Heavy defoliation. Tip dieback and no new growth yet on many in my clients’ gardens. They make it past the scratch test, but we have yet to see what is to come.
  • Euphorbia: Mixed bag here. Some crashed. Some are spectacular. Clear out the dead portions and see how they bounce back.
  • Camellia sasanqua: These are your winter blooming camellia that didn’t bloom, or didn’t bloom well this winter. The freezes hit around the time they were ready to bloom causing bud blast. Some the plants split (like mine). Some just didn’t flower. Some died back.
  • Viburnum tinus: These evergreen shrubs took the winter hard and are going through heavy defoliation. Black leaves, dieing flowers and more. Some are gone. Others are struggling.
  • Escallonia: This shiny evergreen has shown up dead all over the greater Seattle area. Some shrubs are partially alive, but looking pretty well shot. Others are black and gone.
  • Pittosporum: Dead and dead. I have considered this a “California plant” and don’t use it. This year it died more consistently than ever.
  • Elaeagnus:The lovely variegated varieties did some interior defoliation, but they seem to be bouncing back nicely.
  • Evergreen clematis: The heavily dissected specialty forms have shown up dead or at least the top growth died back pretty consistently. The standard armandii is a mixed bag; older ones seem fine. Younger plantings struggled.
  • Hebes: It was a mixed bag for the Hebes. In my experience the varieties that don’t have a lot of deep purple  seem to be the ones that faired best. Here’s a few and how they did:
    • Hebe caledonia turned black, but it did sprout from the stems this spring.
    • Hebe pinquefolia had no problems
    • Hebe buxifolia had no problems
    • Hebe ‘Patty’s Purple’ died
    • Hebe ‘Amy’ died
    • Hebe ‘James Sirling’ had no problems
    • Hebe ‘Tricolor’ died (as it does in every winter here)
    • Hebe ‘Quicksilver’ had no problems
    • Hebe procumbens had no problems
Iced Rosebud

Iced Rosebud

As you’ve probably noticed, there’s a pattern here (if you take out the roses). These are all evergreen plants. Despite their ability to plug through our winters, they bear the brunt of heavy snow loads, desiccating winter winds and freezing temperatures. Likely, you’ve noticed how well many of your perennials and deciduous shrubs are doing after being protected under the soil and in leafless dormancy through the rough winter.

If nothing else, I hope this list gives you some solace during your time of loss. Each gardener lost some beloved plant this winter, and as we mourn together, we can take comfort in knowing that these losses likely weren’t the result of our green thumbs turning brown. Instead, it was mother nature reminding us not everything is in our control.

If you’ve noticed plants in your garden or around town that are goners, please share them in the comments section!

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Garden Coach on Gardening with Kids

Sunday, April 19th, 2009

I can’t wait to get out into my own garden today, but I had to share a fun tale from gardening with a kid yesterday. My friend Chaney came by to help me in the greenhouse. I had lots of seeding and potting up to do, and she was a huge help.

After seeding sunflowers and pole beans, I set her to the task of dividing and potting up corn starts out of sterile mix. She did a fantastic job seperating the starts, not touching the delicate roots, and placing them gently but firmly into the prepared 4″ pots. She topped each pot with a sprinkling of vermicompost and watered them in.

She also gave me food for thought when she exclaimed, “Hey, there’s a piece of corn growing out of this corn plant!”

Suppressing my “well of course there is” giggle, I explained to her that the corn we eat is actually the seed of the corn plant. That made sense to her, so it was easy to then teach her that the plant was growing out of the seed rather than the seed growing off of the plant.

Once she understood, even she began to laugh. We agreed you really do learn something new everyday!

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Garden Coach on Gardening in Inclement Weather

Wednesday, April 1st, 2009

It’s April Fool’s Day 2009, and it’s snowing in Seattle — no joke. Last year our last snow arrived in mid-April, so I shouldn’t be too surprised we’re seeing snow, sleet, cold rain today. But, it really puts a cramp in my gardening programs.

Flowering Winter Currant, Cousin to the Black Currant

Flowering Winter Currant, Cousin to the Black Currant

Yes, I do work in inclement weather. I get muddy, drenched, cold and stiff out there on days like today. But, sometimes I make a judgment call to reschedule appointments when the weather is rough. It’s not because I think my clients can’t handle a little cold and wet and muddy. Gardeners, new and old, need to get out there in any weather and just go for it. But, there are a couple of exceptions…for instance…

Last weekend I had scheduled to help a client install new plants. On the scheduled day we woke up to soggy soil and an incessant downpour. I knew we would be working on a narrow rockery with a steep drop off. I also knew that the soil was saturated and would be compacted by our tramping and transplanting. For the safety of the plants and the people, I rescheduled the planting session for the following day, which turned out to be clear, sunny and warm.

This morning I was scheduled to provide an initial gardening consultation to a new client who lives at the edge of our convergence zone. As the time to leave my house approached, I noticed snow creeping into our steady downpour. Since this new client wanted help planning and evaluating his spaces, I knew much of our two hours would be spent in the garden where both of us would be taking notes, sketching and talking. Yes, I use Rite-in-the-Rain paper, which works really well (up to a point) in rough weather. But, would my client really be able to learn and focus in a snowy, cold, wet downpour? I had my doubts. So, I rang him up and gave him the option to reschedule. He sighed with relief saying, “I hoped you’d call. It’s snowing here.”

I didn’t lose a client in either case. In the planting installation example I actually saved myself the pain and misery of planting in rough weather, and I probably saved my client some money by completing the job more rapidly in better weather. Plus, her garden soil didn’t take a huge compaction hit from traffic and planting while soggy. In the case of the consulting client, he’s now scheduled for a day that (at least right now) looks to be drier and warmer. Who doesn’t like that option?

So not only do I encourage you to be patient with your gardener gardening in winter, but remember that just because we’ve entered daylight savings and the calender says it is spring it doesn’t mean Mother Nature will automagically give us perfect days of sunshine and rainbows. Today she’s having a pretty good April Fool’s joke on all of us here in the greater Seattle area. So, my advice, go with it. Have a laugh and find a way to roll with the punches. There really isn’t anything you can do about it anyway.

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Garden Coach Discusses Sweet Stevia Rebaudiana

Thursday, March 5th, 2009

Trish F. from Edgewater, FL writes to ask:

“I have bought a stevia rebaudiana plant.I would like to know if you can dry the leaves and use it as a sugar substitute?Or is there a certain process it has to go through?I can’t find information clear enough to know positively.”

Trish, first, thanks for writing in with this question. I’m posting it here in hopes we’ll generate some reader discussion on the subject because frankly, I don’t know the answer. I have purchased powdered Stevia and never gotten sick from it. Too, I’ve gotten some fantastic herbal tea blends sweetened only with dried stevia from my local herbalist. And, I’m not dead yet from drinking those, either. I don’t know if the leaves were treated, but I doubt it. I’ve never eaten fresh Stevia nor have I grown it. So, I’m not qualified to give you the final word here.

Your question did inspire me to do some research. Unfortunately my go-to herbal apothocary books and HerbFarm cookbooks had nothing to say about Stevia. So, I did some internet searching. I  read the Wiki on Stevia and a few web posts that came up through a Google search on “can stevia be eaten fresh?” (here’s an example).  But, I, too am still not clear. Though I did find one article from the reputable National Gardening Association that does discuss growing Stevia as a fresh herb to eat, so maybe that’s the evidence you need?

It sounds like it has been banned and regulated in more than one country, but it also sounds like the regulation might be more of a sweetener industry manipulation than a problem with the plant. But, I’m no expert here. Any readers willing to chime in?

If not, I suggest calling an herbalist in your area for additional assistance.

Thanks for writing in and good luck!

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Can and Will the Garden Coach Help Save Satan’s Revenge?

Wednesday, March 4th, 2009

Lynn M. from Pismo Beach, CA writes:

“I planted a row of red tip photinias along my property line, around 50 plants in all . Most of the plants are distressed and woody. Many plants have yellow or brownish red leaves. These plants are 7-8 years old and are 5-7 feet tall. More leaves fall off the plants then stay on. Can I save these plants? It is sad I allowed them to get like this. I am hoping by perhaps cutting them back or another treatment they can be saved. Your advise would be greatly appreciated. I live along the central coast of California, where we have mild climates and a long growing season. Thank You Lynn in Pismo Beach, CA. “

Honestly, the problems you describe could be the result of so many things it’s difficult to know where to start. I will admit that I have a bias against Photinia, which I call Satan’s Revenge. Not only is the plant lava-red, but I’m deathly allergic to its bloom. When I lived in California, where it is grown extensively, I suffered badly when the plants put on flowers. I learned to despise it through swollen weepy eyes:  “I sneeze in your general direction you nasty shrub!” Because of my allergies, this is one plant I prefer to shear in time to remove all its blooms. (And for those of you who know me and/or read regularly, you know I don’t like shearing!)

Okay, my own bias stated and now shelved, let’s see if I can help you try to salvage your beloved plants despite my belief it was put on our planet by a fallen angel to torture humanity. Here are a few things to consider as you try to determine what might help you help them:

  • How is the soil? Have you tested it? Does it meet the plant’s requirements?
  • Is the soil too deep? If the woody part of the plant is sinking or buried under too much mulch, this could be a problem.
  • Have you provided sufficient (or even too much) water?
  • Have the plants been malpruned?
  • Have the plants been over fertilized?
  • Are the plants in the right location for their cultural needs?
  • Has something happened near the plants that could be causing the problems? Construction? New plants nearby? Something else?
  • Are the plants planted too close together?
  • Is there a new pest or pathogen problem in your area?

This is a really good example of the kind of problem that needs looking at up close.  Obviously, I try to help sight-unseen, but more often than not specific problems like this need an on-site evaluation. I suggest trying to find a gardening consultant in your area or contact your local Master Gardeners Extension to get some assistance closer to home.

Lynn, thanks for writing in. Good luck!

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