Archive for the ‘garden coach’ Category

Caring for Ornamental Grasses in Seattle

Wednesday, September 23rd, 2009
'The Blues' Schizachyrium with Lambs Ear

'The Blues' Schizachyrium with Lambs Ear

Autumn is probably my favorite time of year to really enjoy ornamental grasses. And, by grasses I don’t mean lawn. I do mean ornamental grasses and grass-like plants such as sedges and rushes. Plants like blood grass are brilliant red and showy at this time. Seed heads on Miscanthus are shining and flowing in the breeze (and frost). Little tufts on bunny grasses hop along at the edges of borders. And, hairy carex shimmers, promising interest into the winter ahead.

Well, it promises interest if cared for properly. Too often, all ornamental grasses are treated the same by unknowning humans with scissoring tools in hand. This can cause permanent damage. So to help you wade your way through your grasses, here are some general guidelines. Of course, in each genus there may be exceptions to the rule, but these tips should help you avoid the big mistakes.

  • True Grasses:
    Miscanthus Seed Head Adorned with First Snow

    Miscanthus Seed Head Adorned with First Snow

    True grasses have “elbows” or “joints” where the leaves run down the stems to the ground. They may be clumpers or spreaders, and they do well when cut down at the end of the season. What you define as “the end of the season” is your call. If you enjoy looking at seed heads swaying in the autumn sunlight, then you might wait until after a frost or until mid-winter to cut the plants down. If you are concerned about the plants spreading in the garden after forming and spreading their seed all winter, then you might cut them down earlier.  Grasses like blood grass are easy to snip at individually to remove. Clumps of bunny grass are tight and with a sheet underneath are easy to shear and then pluck out brown old growth. Tall grasses like Miscanthus are best bundled tightly with string and then cut a few inches above the ground but below the tie. This way the bundle comes away in one bunch. Take care, these plants may have sharp edges.

  • Sedges: Sedges have edges and no elbows. They are often mop-like and spreading. Generally, their seed heads aren’t showy.
    Carex testacea intermingling with Euphorbia

    Carex testacea intermingling with Euphorbia

    They do not take kindly to being cut hard. Some will die back for winter. Most ornamental Carex, however, is an evergreen plant that should be combed and very lightly trimmed once or twice a year. I tend to comb mine out in mid-summer and again in fall or winter. After I comb out all the dead and stringy growth and remove any dead clumps, I then bundle the plant in my hands and trim off the dead ends, which should be around 2″ or so of the very tips. Its like giving the plant a little bob haircut. If the plant has been neglected for a long time, the center may be dieing out. In these cases, I dig out the plant to divide it and reinvigorate growth.

  • Rushes: Honestly, I don’t do much with rushes. If they have dead growth, I remove those shoots to the ground. That’s about it.
Carex flagellifera with Lambs Ear

Carex flagellifera with Lambs Ear

This is basic primer barely skims the surface of ornamental grass care. There are many, many more grasses to choose from and care for. Some are weedier than others. Some are sharper and harder to care for than others. And, many are just plain wonderful and not to be missed for their fantastic, unique forms, textures and colors they add to to the garden.  If you aren’t sure which kind of grass plant you have or if you have one that isn’t specifically mentioned here, get in touch for a coaching session for hands on plant care training and identification sessions. Or consider picking up a copy of one of my favorite grass books such as Grasses:Versatile Partners for Uncommon Garden Design or The Color Encyclopedia of Ornamental Grasses.

(This topic was originally published in October 2008 and updated in September 2009.)

  • Share/Bookmark

A Few Random Thoughts from a Busy Garden Coach as we Approach Summer Solstice

Sunday, June 14th, 2009

I haven’t been writing nearly as much as I do during the colder, dormant season. It’s much more fun, and profitable, for me to spend time in the garden rather than writing about the garden. Yet, as I’m looking down the barrel of summer solstice, I want to share a few quick gardening tips that may prove helpful. Solstice marks the time when days following, sadly, start to become shorter. Plants are greatly in tune with this, and your work, based on timing,  can make a huge difference in your gardening successes (and failures):

  • Pinching perennials: Not only will deadheading help extend your flowering season for most perennials, but if you tip back (aka a pinch-to-a-node) late flowering types (Mums, especially) with alternating cuts, you can create bushier plants with more blooms that are less likely to flop over when they get top-heavy with blossoms. But, stop tipping around solstice or you may not get any blooms at all.  If you’re dealing with plants that you don’t want to bloom, like basil, keep on pinchin’!
  • Pruning: Don’t prune plants that bloomed in late winter/early spring or you risk cutting off next winter’s blooms. If you haven’t sheared your hedges, which is best done in late winter/early spring, you’re running out of time. If you shear too late, you risk looking at choppy cuts all winter or forcing soft growth that gets killed in early frosts.
  • Big Harvest in June for the Foodbank

    Big Harvest in June for the Foodbank

    Seeding and Planting: You still have time to seed many hot season crops, but again, your time is running out. Get those last rounds of tomatoes, basil, peppers, squashes and beans in the ground now to extend your harvest period. Plus, now’s the time to start seeding those fall/winter crops to get them ready to set out for winter harvesting — think kale, broccoli, chard and cabbage.

  • Harvest, Eat, Preserve: As your crops roll in, stay on top of harvesting even if that means you end up making sauerkraut in June or giving away lettuce to the foodbank. By doing this, you’ll make room to rotate in new crops and reduce the likelihood of inviting pests and disease and self-seeded bolting crops into the garden by leaving past-their-prime edibles in the soil.

And finally, enjoy these long days. Soon enough we’ll all be wrapped in polar fleece, snuggling near a warm fire, desperately seeking a bloom somewhere to discuss in the many posts we have time to write up during winter. For me, for now, I’m off to put out more mammoth sunflowers, zinnia, basil and late season tomatoes to enjoy into the many remaining months of summer.

  • Share/Bookmark

How Much Time Does a Garden Coach Spend in Her Garden Each Week

Wednesday, May 20th, 2009

Yesterday I was helping a regular client prune several woody shrubs away from a deck she’ll be renovating this summer. The shrub work was long past due, but together we made great progress. As we were working she asked, “Robin, how many hours a week do you spend working in your garden?”

Stone & Filled Beds Make for Easy Summer Care

Stone & Filled Beds Make for Easy Summer Care

Hmmm…that was like getting the job interview question you’re completely unprepared for. Fortunately, I wasn’t interviewing for a job as the question gave me pause. How much time do I spend working in my own garden in a week?

I answered my client honestly. I barely have time and energy left this time of year to get out in my own garden. My hands are exhausted from pruning and weeding and typing and writing all day, so my own weeds flourish and my shrubs thrive despite the work I know I should devote to them.

Fortunately, I’ve invested almost a decade developing my garden, which has a lot of stone work. And, stones don’t require a lot of maintenance. And, my beds are quite full from years of planting, dividing and spreading perennials. Some I regret and now classify in the weed department (Alstromeria & cat mint rules this regret.) Still, I would like to have garden perfection with zero weeds, perfectly coiffed shrubs and pest-free cabbages.  But, time is at a premium. And when free evenings bring lightening storms and hail such as we had last night, I miss out on my rare opportunities to weed away the evening sunlight.

So, to answer the question. I find myself puttering through the garden with coffee each morning most days of the year for a good 30 minutes or so. I visit my potted garden and greenhouse for about 30 minutes a day in spring and summer (at least). I visit my veggie beds daily to harvest (if not to weed and plant and water) for about 20 minutes a day. And, when I have an actual day to really get out there. Well, those are the days I can put in a good 8-10 hours renovating big spaces and making progress pruning those shrubs, pulling those weeds, squashing those slugs and dressing up the finished areas with a nutrious layer of composted mulch. And, of course, I try to wind down sunny evenings sitting in the garden with a glass of wine or iced tea — and odds are, I’ll pull another weed while I’m at it. So shall we say I spend a good hour or two, on an average day, working in the garden (and sometimes quite a bit more.)

Now that I’ve wrapped up this thought, I’m going to escape into my own garden for a rare two hour, mid-day weed-a-thon. Wish me luck!

  • Share/Bookmark

Garden Coach Gets Schooled

Thursday, May 14th, 2009

Sometimes I need to get out of my own head. By that, I mean, I need to experience a variety of gardens and learn from other gardeners to maintain my edge and gather sparks of new inspiration. This week I’ve had abundant input and will be writing about all of these experiences here at gardenhelp.org in the days ahead.

Today a teaser of what’s to come in future gardenhelp.org writings:

  • Tuckahoe Plantation: I had a unique opportunity to visit Tuckahoe Plantation, the boyhood home of Thomas Jefferson,  and volunteer my time at an event to raise awareness about land conservation in Virginia (and beyond).
  • Agecroft Hall: My cousin, who inspired me to return to school to study horticulture after she had done the same several years ago, introduced me to Sandra, the head gardener of Agecroft. Agecoft Hall is a Tudor Manor built in the 15th century in England; it was purchased, dismantled and shipped to Virginia in the 1920s when it was rebuilt on the banks of the James River. Sandy was kind enough to lead me on a private tour of the gardens on a closed day.
  • Monticello & Michie Tavern: I spent one day outside Charlottesville, VA taking in the history and gardens of Thomas Jefferson’s plantation home, Monticello. I developed quite a bit of garden envy, purchased some native divisions from Jefferson’s own gardens (that I have to give to local Virginia gardening friends), and I picked up heritage seed to take to my own Seattle garden. And, we lunched at Michie (pronounced “Mickey” as in “Mouse”).
  • Graves Mountain Lodge: This lodge is nestled at the base of the Blue Ridge Mountains. During my childhood we travelled to this area to pick up crates of apples and peachs to put up as jams and pies. Getting to enjoy a meal at the historic lodge as always very special. Going as an adult was no let-down either!
  • Winston: Winston, VA is the home of our family’s country store. It’s been owned and managed by family members for many generations. In days gone by it was an important mailstop along the railroad. Today, the potbelly stove is still a gathering place for farmers and family to chew the fat and enjoy a tasty lunch from the deli. My cousin maintains a big veggie garden, a big chicken coop and roses that have been intact longer than the oldest living members of the family can remember.
  • Woodhaven: Woodhaven is a family homestead built in old growth Oak forests by my grandmother’s family — the Woods. The home was hand-built multiple generations ago and is still lovingly maintained and lived in by my cousin. The asparagus patch installed when I was a child still produces. And, the woods of Woodhaven are coming back after being decimated over a decade ago by loggers who took advantage of my elderly aunt and gyspy moth that attacked what remained.
  • Moss Garden: Today I am looking forward to a spring tour of Nori’s Moss garden. It was fantastic when I saw it a couple of years ago in winter; I can’t wait to see it in full mid-spring glory!

There’s your teaser. More information and photos will follow in the weeks ahead. Right now I need to get ready to visit Nori and her moss garden!

  • Share/Bookmark

Garden Coach Answers Reader Question About Amending Soil

Thursday, April 30th, 2009

Moe from Orlando, FL writes:

“I have tomatoes and peppers planted- but the soil is the dark gray sandy type. It gets sooo hot- you can’t even step on it barefoot. What can I use to mulch my plants that will absorb the extra heat, and not take their water?”

Early Girl Ready to Harvest Mid-July 2008

Early Girl Ready to Harvest Mid-July 2008

Moe, thanks for writing in with your question. You’ve described your soil texture as sandy, which means nutrients and water likely pass through it very rapidly. So, adding a composted organic mulch material will likely help you hold water and nutrients in the soil a little better. Generally, mulched materials are also dark, so they may also absorb heat as well.

Mulch materials should be at least somewhat mixed with the existing soil before planting. This creates a layer of both the existing “native” soil and your organic matter. If you don’t have a mixed layer between the two, you can end up with a situation called “interfacing”. Water has a tendency to not pass readily from one medium (aka a top layer of mulch) into the next layer of soil (aka your dark sandy stuff). By having a mixture of both between, this will help the water pass through. If you do end up with a soil interface, you may have nice moist mulch on top and dried out sandy soil where the plant roots live.

Before you try to start changing your soil, consider ordering a soil test to understand more about your soil’s nutrient information, pH, potential heavy metal content and more. Once you understand this, you will be better armed to make the best choices to adjust your soil for your chosen plants.  Certainly check your local area for labs near you, or consider sending in your samples to the Umass Soil Testing facility.

Good luck!

  • Share/Bookmark