Archive for the ‘Food’ Category

365 Days of Garlic from the Garden

Saturday, June 19th, 2010
Cured Hardneck Garlic Ready for Storage & Cooking

Cured Hardneck Garlic Ready for Storage & Cooking

I can now say that we have successfully made it a full year without buying garlic. My spring garlic scapes began emerging a couple of weeks ago, just as I was finishing off the last shriveling, browning soft neck cloves stored in the cellar. In the fall of 2008 I planted a selection of hardneck seed garlic into large, movable nursery tubs used in the past for trees and large shrubs. In the spring of 2009 — around Solstice — I began harvesting garlic scapes for cooking. That’s when I stopped buying garlic at the farmer’s marke, let alone at the grocery store. Later in summer, I began harvesting, curing and braiding the bulbs themselves, which we have been using until just this week — timed perfectly to the arrival of this year’s scapes! Our next goal is to see if this year’s harvest can take us through yet another 365 days without needing to buy more garlic for the kitchen.

Because garlic grows for almost 9 months before being harvested and cured and because I don’t have a large farm to work with, I chose to grow it in containers instead of in the ground. Using this method, I am still able to produce enough garlic to feed to us through the winter. And we eat a lot of garlic! Growing this way, I may harvest slightly smaller cloves since they are packed into the containers, but I still reap a good sized harvest. Too, by using containers, I can move the the garlic around the garden to capture ideal sun, which travels the horizon much differently in the dead of winter than in the brilliance of late spring. And, I can easily protect the spring plants from rot-inducing rain and cold by rigging up temporary hoop houses. Too, garlic can benefit from reduced watering as the bulbs begin to cure. By keeping it in pots by itself rather than mixed into my beds with other plants still begging for supplemental summer water, I can control the needs of both the thirsty crops and the curing garlic by segregating my stinking rose into containers.

Despite appreciating the long-storing capacity of soft neck garlics and how easy they are to braid, I’ve found they’re more difficult to grow successfully than hard necks. Plus, they don’t offer up delicious scapes in spring, and I find them tough to peel. In Fall of 2009, I planted a mixed selection of garlic in tubs again. I skipped the elephant garlic, which simply rotted out in my 2009 crop. And, I did try one variety of soft neck. Most of that has rotted as well. To be fair, it’s been a really cold and wet spring in Seattle in 2010. However, the soft necks were the first to have problems in my current crop. Yet, the hard necks continue to do great.

So what’s the difference between a hard neck and soft neck garlic? (more…)

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When is the Right Time to Harvest Winter Squash?

Friday, October 30th, 2009

If you’re still wondering when to harvest those winter squash and pumpkins, you’re not alone.

Butternut Ripening on the Vine in October

Butternut Ripening on the Vine in October

Our Gardenhelp.org readers have written in more than once to ask when to harvest their squash and pumpkins. (If you are reading this posting on any website than gardenhelp.org or said networked blog, know that this content has been stolen without permission. Please redirect to gardenhelp.org here.)

Most of winter squash are off the vine and stored in my root cellar by now, but my butternut is still struggling with one last fruit, so my vine is still going on the day before Halloween. It’s going to be a small squash, but every edible is worth the wait!

Read more on winter squash harvesting here (and sneak a peek at the Peanuts gang celebrating the return of their favorite pumpkin as well):

(more…)

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Garden Coach on Ways to Extend Your Vegetable Growing Season

Saturday, October 10th, 2009
Shiloh Thanking Bob for Building the Hoophouse

Shiloh Thanking Bob for Building the Hoophouse

It’s all the buzz right now — vegetable gardening. Nearly all of my garden coaching clients are asking about them. And why not? This is the season when starts and seeds are appearing in nursery centers. It’s that time of year when gardeners are checking weather forecasts daily. The days are shorter and the warmth of summer is rapidly seeping away. Friends living in places like Colorado are already posting Facebook updates about picking up newspapers in the snow. Here in Seattle, the weather reporters warned that tonight we may have a mild freeze. This news means we will be switching out all remaining floating row cover in the garden for the more protective and heat building and heat retaining plastic hoop house covers.

If you’re growing edibles in your winter garden and need help retaining heat, read on for ways to extend your growing season. And, don’t delay. If cold temps are trickling (or racing) into your garden, one freeze can do in your crops. Protect them early and eat well all winter.

(Original post from March 27, 2009)

Gardening magazines are featuring edible gardening. Heck, even the Obamas are jumping on the bandwagon this year. Edible gardening is nothing new to me. I grew up pulling weeds around squash, hoeing acres of rows for greenbeans, and putting up freezers full of all sorts of vegetables on our farm year-after-year. I come from a family of farm folk, and though I’ve chosen a suburban home life, I continue to raise food year-round in Seattle.

Seattle is a great place to garden. Although the winter of 2008/09 brought us huge freezes that took out a lot of our consistent garden performers like Rosemary, Lavender and Flax, generally we have mild winters through which a wide array of plants will survive — including winter edibles. However, as great as gardening can be in Seattle, it does present some consistent challenges, particularly long, cool, wet springs.

Even the most seasoned edible gardener is going to need to rethink tried and true methods they’ve used in other areas of the country. For instance, the beefsteak tomato that you’ve grown up loving in the midwest may do nothing for you here; if you’re lucky you might get some big green tomatoes from it. Peppers can be difficult to get going, especially if we have an extra cool gardening season. So, what can you do to get past these trouble spots and have success in your garden? Well, besides taking care to select edible starts and seeds known to perform well in your area, creating heat-traps in your garden may make all the difference!

First Hoop House On Raised Bed

First Hoop House On Raised Bed

Maybe you don’t have room or budget for a greenhouse. Maybe you don’t have room for a coldframe. Instead, consider adding a simple hoophouse over your exisiting vegetable beds or plot. They are relatively inexpensive to build and can easily be dismantled when the growing season really kicks into high gear.

For several years, I’ve maintained one small raised bed in my west-facing front garden. Seasonally, we pull out the PVC hoops, a sheet of plastic and some clips to help warm up seedlings or protect them from winter (or spring) snows. Through the winter, this small bed has kept a nice crop of various things going for us — ranging from chard to lettuce to parsley to kale. In the cool spring, the hoop house has later served as a protective incubator for tomatoes too delicate to face the range of temperatures swinging back and forth in the early (or late) Seattle spring.

Closed Hoop House

Closed Hoop House

A hoop house is designed to trap heat in a specific garden bed area. Sunlight, even diffused sunlight, filters through the plastic sheeting, warming the air inside the tent as well as the soil and the plants growing inside. As plants transpire, the hoop house can also serve to trap the warmth and moisture released by the plants. This creates a great, inexpensive greenhouse in a specific area of your garden. But, be sure to check the soil and water regularly. Since you’re keeping the rain out and you’re heating up the environment, you’ll probably need to provide your bed with additional water regularly!

In our garden this year, we added a second, taller hoop house to a new edible section of our garden. Unlike the hoops on our raised bed, this new system is installed directly into the earth using rebar to stabilize the hoops. So, in this case the PVC is attached over the rebar. Honestly, this isn’t my preferred method.  PVC can leach toxins. My preferred method is to attach brackets to the outside of a raised wooden bed so that the PVC slips into the brackets outside the growing area. Regardless, we’re trying both methods this year and doing our best to keep the PVC away from our soil. I have seen other materials used for hoops, but none are as cost effective as the PVC.

Clipped Open Makes Working Inside Easy

Clipped Open Makes Working Inside Easy

Because I use clips that hold the plastic tight to the hoops, I have less trouble opening and closing the plastic to work in the beds. It also makes it easy to open the hoophouse during the day to let in natural rain and warmish breezes. Opening the house more and more as warm days approach is critical to hardening off the plants inside, getting them ready to withstand days and nights of unprotected exposure. As well, gentle breezes help deter many edible garden problems like bortrytis from killing seedlings. Too, gentle spring rains, direct from the sky, provides the type of water plants prefer over processed tap water.

Back in January, I wrote about starting my seedlings indoors. Yesterday, almost two months to the day I started these seeds, I planted young starts into my hoop houses. These little kale, cauliflower, cabbage, lettuce, spinach, chard and snow peas have made the rounds in my home. Beginning in January they were seeded into sterile mixes and placed in a south-facing window with a furnace vent below them to provide air circulation and bottom heat. After germinating, they were moved into my cooler basement under shop lights where they would begin managing cooler temperatures but continue growing under supplemental light. Then, after transplanting them from sterile soil into larger pots with mixed worm castings and potting soil, the young plants moved into my coldframe to further harden off and grow for about another 3-4 weeks. Now, I have two hoop house beds filled with edibles that we’ll be harvesting in just a few weeks.

Oh, and I should mention that we are already harvesting a few crops. Several rainbow chard, dinosaur kale and lettuce plants plugged right through the cold, hard winter. Each experienced a bit of dieback in the cold, but the plants themselves perservered and as an annoucement of spring, they’re already providing tasty morsels for our table. Curious what else is on the way? Well, tomato seedlings and beets are growing like mad under lights, and more seeding is coming soon. Here’s the full list of what we’re planning…well, it was the beginning list. We’ve added few new things since making this list at the beginning of the year.

Odds are we’ll have more food than we know what to do with. Between the garden and the prepaid CSA program, I anticipate having a lot of food on hand by summer. I’ll be canning and freezing and eating! I also hope that some of what I grow will go to feed the hungry. Local food banks are happy to accept fresh foods from our gardens to help fill their distribution needs.

Need help constructing a hoop house? Get in touch to schedule a gardening consultation to learn more about how to build a hoop house or cold frame of your very own!

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How to Dry Tomatoes for Long Storage and How to Use them Too

Monday, October 5th, 2009

This year I made a commitment to myself to grow more food and to grow more food from seed. I ordered seed way back in January and started seed indoors in February. I ended up with so many food crop starts that many went to other gardeners. And, enjoying a record summer, my garden produced enough food to feed us and allow us to take several bags of food to the local food bank each week.

Eight Pounds of Saucy Paste Tomatoes

Eight Pounds of Saucy Paste Tomatoes

Despite eating heartily from our fresh crops and giving a lot away, we’ve found ourselves preserving lots of our garden-fresh food to last us into the winter ahead. Among the many delicious fruits and veggies we’ve put up,  we’ll be enjoying are a few pounds of dried tomatoes.

Drying tomatoes is fairly simple, and their uses are quite diverse. In our house, we’ll put defrosted chopped tomatoes in a blender with a few dried to create a rich marinara base. Or, we’ll use Barbara & Camille Kingsolver’s fantastic Antipasto Tomatoes (from their wonderful family book Animal, Vegetable, Miracle) as a snack or on a pizza or chopped and rolled in mozzarella or in a mixed seasonal veggie saute (see recipe below). Friends who have enjoyed these have asked how I prepare them for storage, so here goes:

How many tomatoes will you need? In my experience, using Saucy Paste tomatoes, which are a nearly seedless Roma style tomato grown for saucing, not slicing, I find that about 8 pounds of fresh tomatoes yields about 8 ounces dried tomatoes. I’ve found that slicing tomatoes don’t make the best dried tomatoes and are essentially a waste of a good tomato.

Paste Tomatoes Prepped for Dehydration

Paste Tomatoes Prepped for Dehydration

How do you prepare tomatoes to dry? Wash the tomatoes, slice lengthwise, remove seeds and inner juices and any interior stems and bad spots. I then place them in a bowl and toss together with a sprinkle of sea salt, a dash of superfine sugar, a pinch of thyme and a dollop of olive oil. Certainly, you can dry them without anything added or you could adjust using other herbs. Just use a light hand with your additives so the tomato goodness stands out.

How do you dry the tomatoes? If you have a food dehydrator, line the trays with the cut side of the tomato up. Flip it on and let it run. Depending on the juiciness of the tomatoes and the power of the dehydrator, generally they’ll be ready to store in about 24 hours. If you don’t have a food dehydrator, line cookie sheets with tomatoes, cut side up. Turn oven to low setting, around 200F, and roast tomatoes until dried. This can take anywhere from 2-6+ hours.

How do I know that my tomatoes are properly dried?

Tomatoes on the Dehydrator Trays

Tomatoes on the Dehydrator Trays

Your tomatoes will be ready when they are leathery and tough. It is important to remove all the moisture from the tomatoes to ensure you don’t end up with spoilage (aka rotten tomatoes).

How do I store my dried tomatoes? In our household, dried tomatoes are put into vacuum seal canisters and kept in a vacuum for long storage. When our canisters overflow, extras are vacuum sealed in bags and frozen for extra long storage. Packed in jars, covered with olive oil, dried tomatoes will last a couple of weeks in the fridge.

Now that I’ve dried them, what do I do with them? Following is a delicious seasonal veggie saute we thoroughly enjoy. It comes together quickly and can be the bed for a delicious chop or just a wonderful wilted salad on its own:

Change of Season Veggie Saute with Dried Tomatoes:

Ingredients for this saute can be modified based on what you have on hand. I happened to find fantastic baby boletes at the farmer’s market yesterday, and I harvested the last, tiny crookneck squash from my garden this week as I pulled out the plants for the season. Use your own favorites and let the flavors shine! (This combo is fantastic served with garlic-balsamic-rosemary grilled lamb chops)

8 Ounces of Dried Saucy Paste from 8 lbs Fresh

8 Ounces of Dried Saucy Paste from 8 lbs Fresh

  • Kingsolver Antipasto tomatoes (use about 8 tomatoes for the saute & store any extras you have)
  • 2 cups par-boiled fingerling potatoes, cut into 1″ rounds
  • 1 cup sliced or baby yellow crookneck squash
  • 1 cup chopped fresh bolete mushrooms
  • 1 small onion, chopped
  • 1 T. chopped garlic
  • Olive Oil
  • Salt & Pepper
  • Fresh mixed tender seasonal leafy greens like arugula & spinach

Roughly chop Antipasto Tomatoes for saute and set aside.

Saute chopped onion & garlic in olive oil until onion begins to brown. Add mushrooms and squash. Sear briefly. Add in potatoes and toss to warm. Remove from heat.

In batches, toss saute with leafy greens and tomatoes until greens are just barely wilted. (Remaining heat in pan should be enough to wilt).

Plate up and eat!

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How This Garden Coach Has the Energy for Long Days in the Garden

Wednesday, September 9th, 2009

Okay, so honestly, this post isn’t so much about the garden except that I often find myself out in the garden, starving, because I didn’t take the time to eat something before I ran out to water or dig or weed or harvest. Not eating means I end up not getting very far in my work day. Whether I’m laboring in the soil, discussing a garden with a garden coaching client or just sitting at my desk designing the next great garden, I need to eat.

Fresh Baked Power Patties

Fresh Baked Power Patties

Recently, I had a craving for cookies. (Those who know me, know this isn’t a rare occurrence; I adore cookies.) When I set out to make up a batch of my favorite oatmeal cookies from the Fanny Farmer Cookbook (Cape Cod Oatmeal recipe in this book rocks!), I ended up veering off course and coming up with a fantastic breakfast cookie that has sustained me through many mornings since. Lacking raisins in the pantry, I looked to the fresh huckleberries I had picked up from Foraged and Found Edibles at the Sunday Farmer’s market and the dried apples remaining from last winter. Together with a few other pantry staples, I concocted a new household breakfast favorite.

As we head into the cool, garden-clean up days of fall ahead, consider making a batch of this dough on hand in the fridge. It keeps for several days. Each morning, just flip on the oven, toss a few scoops on a cookie sheet, and you’ll have a delicious treat in about 20 minutes.

Huckleberry, Dried Apple, Oatmeal , Pecan Power Patties

  • 1 cup white, unbleached flour
  • 1/2 cup emmer flour
  • 1.5 cup rolled oats (uncooked, not instant)
  • 3/4 t. baking soda
  • 1 generous t. cinnamon
  • 1 cup brown sugar, packed
  • 1/2 t. salt
  • 1/2 cup dried apple rings, coarsely chopped
  • 1/2 cup coarsely chopped pecans (or hazelnuts, walnuts)
  • 1 egg
  • 1/2 cup melted butter
  • 1/4 cup milk
  • 3/4 cup fresh huckleberries (or blueberries)

Preheat oven to 350F.

In large bowl blend together first seven ingredients. Then stir in apple rings pecans. Set aside.

In small bowl whisk egg, butter and milk together. Then stir into flour mixture.

Gently fold in huckleberries.

Drop blobs of mixture in about 2-3T size onto parchment lined baking sheet. Press together gently if berries roll out.

Bake for about 12-17 minutes (if freshly mixed); 15-20 minutes (if cold from the fridge)

With satisfying baked cookie in hand (and one in your belly), enjoy a healthy, strong day in the garden!

And, consider the recipe here for a great apple breakfast bread too!

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