Archive for the ‘fruit tree’ Category

Garden Coach Answers Reader Question on Peach Tree Problems

Monday, February 23rd, 2009

Joan C. of Las Vegas, NV asks:

“My peach tree looks like the bark is cracking and peeling – this past season it only gave me a few p(e)aches where every other year for 3 years I got tons of amazing peaches. My boyfriend cut the dead branches off so whats left is a trunk with 3 or 4 tiny branches sprouting out. Did we kill it- will it gr(o)w back in time for peaches this year?> Do I need to fertalize and with what?

Peach with FruitJoan, this is a tough one. First, I haven’t gardened in the Las Vegas area. I’m guessing you have fantastic heat, which peaches love, and I’m guessing you’re adding supplemental water to keep it happy in the hot, dry weather. Still, I’m not sure why you’re not getting tons of peaches anymore.

It could be that your peach has a disease like I discuss here. Enough disease and a tree may experience tip or blossom dieback and not be able to produce. Or, you may have plenty of blossoms but you’re not getting the pollenators into the garden. Do you or your neighbors spray? If you’re spraying for bees, you may have killed off your pollinators as I discuss here.  It could also be a problem with your pruning techniques. Or, any number of issues including just having an off year. As peach trees age, they do tend to get somewhat cracking and peeling bark, but without seeing yours, it’s hard to tell if this is a normal thing or an abnormal thing.

I suggest you try contacting your local Master Gardeners Extension Program to see if they can provide more answers appropriate to your area. Or, try taking some photos of your tree along with your history with it to your local nursery for assistance. Most high end nurseries will offer helpdesks or visiting Master Gardeners to assist you with these kinds of problems. Or, if you’re able, hire a local garden coach to evaluate your tree in the garden. Once you have a full evaluation you’ll have a better understanding of the tree’s longterm potential and any additional care needs.

Thanks for writing in and good luck in the garden!

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“Should I Prune Now or Wait?”

Wednesday, November 26th, 2008

When to prune is one of the top 10 questions I get. (Hmmm…maybe I should do a top ten list for the end of the year. Anyone want to read that? Anyone want to hazard putting out a question to see if it makes the top ten?) Okay, back on topic — when should you prune.

Fragrant Winter Blooming Dawn Viburnum

Fragrant Winter Blooming Dawn Viburnum

Honestly, there’s no perfect, single answer to this question. The plant’s habit, the environment, your tolerance for what things look like, and your time availability can all impact the answer. What I can tell you are a few basic rules about pruning timing:

  • When does your plant flower? If your plant flowers in early winter, then it will have all its flowers set by summer. So, don’t prune it in fall or you’ll miss the flowers. Best to prune it right after it finishes blooming. Or, take a few cuttings while the plant is blooming in mid-winter to enjoy indoors as a reminder that spring is on the way!
  • Is your plant frozen? You can prune in the middle of winter when plants are frozen, but I usually wait. Branches hold water through the winter and can become very fragile and brittle in very cold weather. It’s easy to make a bad break during these times.
  • Shearing hedges: I’ve said it so many times before that I won’t go into much here, but shearing is best left until late winter/early spring just before the plant really pops into new growth. If you cut it in fall or early winter, you’ll be looking at ugly cuts all winter long. And, if the plant responds to your cuts with new growth in winter, you may have some dead spots when that delicate new growth gets zapped in a freeze.
  • When do I prune my apple/cherry/plum/peach/raspberries and other fruiting plants? I get this question often, and there is more than one answer to when to prune fruiting plants. I like to clean out raspberries in late winter and many fruit trees as well. But, disease infestations, specific cultivars and more can play into the answer. Best to work with a coach to work on your specifics!
  • Cleaning out the dead: This is something you can do just about any time. If your plant has lots of dead branches, is filled with dead leaves or has lots of suckers coming up from the ground, get out there whenever you can and work on cleaning things up. Keep in mind the rule about freezing weather, but this is a great winter chore when plants have lost their leaves and their form and structure is beautifully visible.
  • I have the time to do something now not in February: Time is something that comes at a premium for all of us. If you find yourself with a couple of hours to focus on the garden, then go for it. Just keep the rules above in mind and keep yourself bundled up, warm and dry.

If I managed to leave out a specific pruning question of yours, please let me know. Also, keep in mind these are just some general recommendations. What to prune and when to prune can be much more complicated and may require a site visit to evaulate.

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Lost Pesticide Application Directions — What to Do?

Saturday, November 8th, 2008

Herb from Uncasville, CT writes in for help:

“I HAVE YOUR ALL SEASON FRUIT TREE SPRAY BUT HAVE LOST THE DIRECTION ON HOW TO MIX IT UP TO SPRAY MY TREES PLEASE HELP ME”

Herb, thanks for getting in touch, but I think your best best it to look at the label on the pesticide and contact the manufacturer for instructions. Since I’m not sure who the manufacturer is by your description (and its definitely not “mine”), I’m unable to track down instructions for you. Odds are they’re available online though. Most manufacturers are making them available this way these days.

If there is no label at all on the package, I suggest taking the bottle to your local toxics recycling center to have it properly disposed of. If you don’t know what you have, you can’t be sure what to do with it. And, it should not be put into your regular garbage can for pick up.

And, out of curiosity, what are you using this mystery spray on and why? If you share it, perhaps we can help you find alternatives to traditional pesticide applications.

Thanks again for writing in.

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Peach Tree Disease Management Diary

Friday, April 18th, 2008

I always dreamed of having a peach tree in my garden. When I was a child growing up on a farm, we didn’t have peaches, but I always wanted them. So, just after we bought our first home, I visited a local nursery to buy a tree for the new garden. I bought the tree even before we had moved into the house. We planned to make this tree a celebration of our new life in this house the moment we moved in.

2005_05_peach_bed_h.jpgPeaches belong to the genus Prunus. I planted a Prunus persica ‘Frost’ about 9 years ago. It was a very young tree that we sited in a protected location in our back garden. It was placed in a mid-sided bed on the north side of the property, between two buildings. It had plenty of room to spread and grow and received great morning (Easterly) light and mid-day light from the south. The tree was quite lovely — in some respects.

In its first year it developed Peach Leaf Curl. Because I was fairly naive about fruit tree care at the time, I took a sample of the deformed leaves to a Master Gardener Help desk at a local nursery. The rudest MG I’ve ever met scoffed at me saying, “I just don’t understand why home gardeners in Seattle think they should plant these trees here. They’re so disease prone.” She then explained that the tree had leaf curl and I needed to start spraying it regularly to control the disease. What she didn’t realize was that

  1. I had purchased the tree at the nursery where she was giving advice
  2. she was horribly rude and insulting
  3. The reason I grew the tree was because I love them and was told it would do well in my garden.
  4. There are alternative methods to controlling leaf curl!

2008_04_peach_dormant_h.jpgI decided to skip the spraying she was recommending and did some additional research on my own. I learned that if I picked the sick leaves off the plant and removed diseased debris from the ground around the tree I might control the disease through manual methods rather than chemical methods. For two growing seasons I followed this approach. I had some fear that I would defoliate the tree so much that it would starve, but the tree survived and as it became established, it no longer had the curled leaves. Occassionally, one or two leaves would exhibit signs of the problem, but it looked like the tree and I won out. (Also, I should note that I did do about 2 seasons of compost tea applications to the tree, which I believe, but cannot prove, helped strengthen the plant.)

Peach with FruitAfter the tree was about 3 years old and had defeated the curl problems, it began to flower nicely and begin producing significant fruit. Before I knew better, I did mal-prune the tree, essentially topping it. Later I was to learn that topping a tree is bad, but in the case of a peach it is sometimes done to encourage new growth on which fruiting occurs. So, a mistake somehow became okay. Over the next couple of years I began better pruning to correct or adjust my mistakes. And, I continued to harvest bumper crops of peaches. Family members came to love the peach jam that came at christmas. And we gorged ourselves on peach tart tatin, peach cobbler, grilled peaches on salads, fresh peaches and so forth. And then the real nasty stuff showed up!

2008_04_peach_ooze_v.jpgYes, my peach began showing signs of peach brown rot. Likely, it had the disease long before I knew to look for it. But, when I did learn what to look for, I recognized it right away. Twigs would start to leaf out and then die back, turning brown. Blossoms would cover the tree, and some would wither and turn brown. Brown ooze would show up in the crotches of the tree. And, finally, the fruit was affected by the disease and would mummify on the tree.2008_04_peach_mummy_v.jpg

I refused to do a lot of spraying on my tree, and I’ve heard that the spray methods often don’t help much anyway. Sure, I could have tried, but being a mostly organic gardener, I had no interest in going this route. So, I tried to pick the fruit a little green and use it before it turned into a mushy, nasty fuzzy grey mass. This worked a bit, but then the situation got even worse — rats decided this tree was their party banquet.

Rats! A sick tree! Inedible fruit! I was done.

2008_04_peach_stumpdug_h.jpgThe Seattle Times ran a piece on the various issues surrounding growing peaches and other fruit trees in our area. I suggest reading this article for additional information. (I will say here that in my experience ‘Frost’ does produce a very flavorful fruit, but if the fruit must be picked when young, due to disease issues, it gets a bit mealy and flavorless. Cooked or jammed it is just fine!) This article also discusses problems with growing cherries and apricots. Issues with apple and pear are an entirely other discussion.2008_04_peach_dug_h.jpg

So what’s next? Well, as you can see from the photos, our peach has been cut down and the stump has been dug out. Some suckers from the tree still exist, but they will be removed as we rework the entire area of the garden. (Yes, peaches sucker, which is another annoying thing about them in the residential garden.) The orange paint you see in the photos is part of our work in determining the flow of a new path we’ll install through the bed. azara_microphylla_haglund_1.jpg
The perennials will be moved and new trees added to provide them the shade they need. We’ve selected one tree, an Azara microphylla. And, I’ll be moving a Disanthus into this bed, but as for everything else, well I haven’t decided on everything just yet!

I guess I now know more about why the rude Master Gardener scoffed at a naive home gardener growning a peach. There really are better choices to be made. Still, I think the greatest lesson I learned from her attitude was to be kinder in teaching gardening lessons. None of us are born knowing everything, many of us learn through doing, and we look to our teachers for guidance and encouragement not ridicule.

February 2009 Update: If you’re interested in reading more about the renovation of this garden, here’s a bit on the Azara microphylla that went in. The beds are still evolving, so more to come later!

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