Archive for the ‘arboriculture’ Category

Arborist Katy Krokower’s Festival of Trees

Thursday, March 25th, 2010

For me, tree climbing is very much a focused activity – I mean, your life is on the line every time your feet lift off the ground.

Katy Up In a Tree - Laughing!

Katy Up In a Tree - Laughing!

This April Fool’s day got me thinking about how recreational tree climbing is not really the best time to play jokes on yourself or your climbing partner. But it really struck me; I mean, I climb for fun and there’s no laughing? And that got me thinking about the last time I laughed in a tree and discovered it was a rare event indeed but I’d like to share about the first time I laughed in a tree.

My first serious climb was in an old growth Douglas fir down in Oregon with the Pacific Tree Climbing Institute. On the way up to the top I stopped to take a breath (read “gasping for air”) and started to look around. Yeah, I’d been so focused on the top I had no idea what was going on around me. I was up around 175 feet or so. Yeah, high!

Mushroom Growing in the Tree Canopy

Mushroom Growing in the Tree Canopy

So, I twisted around inspecting the limbs as big as logs, hearing the breeze in the trees, seeing what birds were up as high as I was … and then I spied it – a tiny mushroom growing in a pile of moss and lichen. I just started to giggle. Admittedly it could have been the adrenaline. I mean, it blew my mind – a mushroom all that way off the ground! Well, why not? There were also bugs and ants and piles of raccoon poop … and this tiny mushroom living it’s life at a cool couple hundred feet above sea level. Or ground level. Whatever. I was still laughing.

Moral of the story is that, this year, I think striving to say this more often is a, well, lofty goal: “A funny thing happened while I was in the tree the other day …” I hope you can find a way to enjoy the trees too, even if from the ground!

Read more Festival of the Trees Submissions here.

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Topics in Arboriculture and Relating to Wayne and Garth

Monday, December 7th, 2009

Curious about trees and want to learn a bit more? Several years ago I signed up for Topics in Arboriculture at Lake Washington Technical College and have never regretted it. I haven’t taken the ISA exams — mostly because I am so humbled by the mighty tree that I feel much like Garth when confronted with something as magnificent as a great, powerful, awe-inspiring, beautiful and perhaps even ailing tree. Sure, I enjoy trees and hope to understand them (and maybe I even worship them a bit), so at least for now, I continue to be an life-long student of arboriculture rather than a certified arborist.

Not Worthy

The knowledge I gained in this course and the relationships I built while taking it continue to be priceless. When I find myself out of my league when faced with a particular tree issue, this course gave me the skills and knowledge to first recognize my limits and second reach out to a greater network of professionals who specialize in trees.

Whether you’re sitting for the ISA exams or just want to learn more about trees and modern methodologies for working with them, this course is one not to miss!

When: Winter Quarter 2010, Tuesdays from 2-5pm beginning January 4, 2010

Where: Lake Washington Technical College, 11605-132nd Avenue, NE, Kirkland, WA 98034 425.739.8279

Course Title: Topics in Arboriculture, HORT 138 (3 credits)

Course Description: In class the students will gain an understanding of topics and issues essential to working with trees in urban landscapes. Some topics covered include tree biology, nutrition, pruning, plant health care, and soils. The ISA Arborists Certification Study Guide will be the text. This class would be helpful for anyone taking the ISA exams. ISA continuing education credits available & CPH credit available.

Registration information here

Other LWTC Horticulture Winter Courses here

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Arborist Answers Reader Question About Dying Trees, Lawn and Concrete

Thursday, May 28th, 2009

Laura from Bartlett, Il writes in:

“We have huge evergreens around our house. Recently they have started to brown and look like they are dying. We had this problem at our other house too. We called Chemlawn out and he said it was from our concrete. We had to go out and buy….This is where I forgot. If it was an acid to put in the dirt or an akaline. It was a powder mixed in the soil. It helped and revived our shrub. I think this is what we need again but, I can’t remember what it was we bought. Can you help?”

Bainbridge, WA arborist, Katy Krokower, has the following insights on this question:

Hi Laura,

I’d like to start the answer to your question by gently scolding you for calling a lawn company to address your tree issues. I will step down from the soap box to say that this is not an uncommon reaction, especially when large beloved trees start declining.  People want an answer quickly and often they already have a lawn or landscape care service to ply with their concerns.

An arborist, particularly those who are ISA certified, can better help diagnose tree problems. Unlike most lawn care companies who focus solely on lawn issues (ie, they look down, not up) an arborist not only evaluates a tree from tip to roots but will question you about the trees history, ask about any activity in the surrounding area (including lawn care) and be able to give you a health or vigor assessment of what is going on with the tree at the time of their site visit. Their opinion will be based on more round information than an opinion based solely on one facet of an area affecting your tree.

That said, sometimes the conclusion is that you do have a soil issues that once remedied may help improve the vigor of your trees. If that is the case, a soil test (of which there are a variety of types) can help you determine what nutrients or diseases are present in your soil. However, I’ll say it again: if you don’t start by taking into account the whole picture of how the tree is, improving your soil may not take care of your tree issues.

To find out if there is a qualified certified arborist in your area check the ISA directory . Also, check your yellow pages to see if anyone has a ISA logo. I encourage you to treat your trees like valuable assets and don’t compromise when looking for experienced mature tree care.

Best of luck, Katy

Need help from a Seattle/Bainbridge arborist? Contact Katy here.

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Arborist and Garden Coach Discuss Gardening Around Established Trees

Saturday, April 25th, 2009

Barbara from Lancaster, CA writes:

“We just purchased a house with a beautiful, very old birch (weeping) tree in the front yard. A large area around the tree is raised due to roots and many years of growing. We\’d like to keep the tree as it is huge. It was probably planted when the house was built. That was 1965. We need to roto-till the entire yard to put down a new lawn. What should we do about the raised tree area? We could put a large, very large circular brick wall around it but then could we put dirt over the roots near the surface to plant some small shrubs, flowers? What to do, what to do?”

Hi Barbara, Katy here,

How great is is that you have purchased a piece of history and are interested in preserving it!?!

I’m not sure why you are rototilling to make a new lawn- perhaps drainage problems you’re trying to remedy? In any event, keep that rototiller out of the “drip line” of the tree. The drip line is area directly located under the outer circumference of the tree branches. This is where the tiny rootlets are located that take up water and nutrients for the tree. A tree can be significantly and sometimes unpredictably damaged once these roots have been disturbed. Furthermore, knowing how a specific roots connect to the upper parts of a tree is little understood – you might end up damaging an area connected to a branch that you’d really like to save.

Building a retaining wall to with the intention to add a bunch of new soil is also isn’t great for a tree. However, covering the surface roots with 2″ to 4″ of compost or mulch will help keep roots cooler and reduce the effect of soil compaction. Too much more soil than that can actually cause the roots to smother. Your surface roots might also be pointing to your type of soil – clayey? Not well drained? The tree might just be trying to get it’s light and air from a easier place than in heavy compacted or dense dirt.

People do install plants under trees and getting the right plant for the right place will help them succeed. But often one or the other wins, no matter how much love is given. If you do plant it is most important to take care not to water the tree trunk as you’re watering the new plants. A constantly wet trunk can becomes a thriving fungus community fast.

Good luck!

_______

Barbara, thanks for writing in. Robin here. I just had to chime in on this as well. So often clients believe rototilling is the answer to renovating a lawn space, when often it isn’t necessary. You may just need to have it thatched, aerated, limed, composted, seeded and then properly mowed and watered. Tearing all of it out and starting over doesn’t always solve on-going lawn issues. But, as Katy hinted at, we aren’t quite sure why you’re planning to till, so it’s difficult for us to know for certain. If you do till in that area and you hit some bigger roots that have expanded out of the “zone” Katy indicated, be sure to stop the tiller and use a sterile saw to cut the root clean on the side that connects it to the tree. This will help the tree help itself in the long run. If you leave the roots torn up, it may be harder for the tree to recover.

Katy also hinted at knowing your soil. I highly recommend you order a soil test to know what kind of soil you’re working with, what pH you have and what its nutrient situation is. This will help you choose the right course of action for preparing your soil to keep both your lawn and your trees (and anything else) happy. University of Massachusetts at Amherst has a soil testing lab that is relatively inexpensive and very comprehensive. You’ll find details here.

Thanks for writing in and have fun in the garden.

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Arborist Katy on Wooly Adelgid Management in Mountain Hemlocks

Friday, April 10th, 2009

Tracy from Federal Way, WA writes:

“Our Mountain Hemlock has an Adelgid infestation. It is all over the middle tree but will probably spread to the others.

What do you suggest for treatment?

I have Neem oil and “Safer” insect killing soap. I also have some Fertilome products – Fungicide ornamental and evergreen spray though I don’t like what the warnings are on the label.

I am also thinking I should treat the other like trees in the back just in case.”

Katy took this question on and answers:

Interesting.

When I first moved to Seattle in 1997 I worked at the Seattle Arboretum,  and there was an employee who was always on about monitoring the Wooly adelgid and who was convinced it was bringing down the native Hemlock  (Tsuga heterophylla) population. Since that time I actually haven’t seen much of it around Bainbridge Island or Seattle.

I called Randall Hitchen, curator at the Arboretum to discuss this case. He was surprised to hear of the adelgid hitting the Mountain Hemlock enough that it was making a problem and so was I. Although we may have lost a bit of the touch for smaller urban gardens where you might only have that one tree, stare at it all the time and it actually makes a significant difference to the landscape whether it thrives or not (he works in a 214 acre garden, and I live on an acre of wooded land) both he and I agreed that adelgids usually don’t usually bring down this kind of Hemlock.

It led us muse about a couple things: How old are the trees? Is it causing severe defoliation or foliar problems or are they at an acceptable level for the client? Is there anything else stressing the trees out to make them more susceptible to an adelgid attack? Is the client ok with spraying? It might be that they actually need a one-time “good hygiene” spray. I was also interested to hear that other kinds of Hemlock (some other cultivars and ornamental type) really don’t tend to succumb to the adelgid.

Both he and I agreed that we wouldn’t go so far as recommending any kind of spray product. Not only do products often change names, we aren’t licensed applicators. Also one shouldn’t ever treat other nearby trees “just in case”. Not only is random spraying a waste of money, there is no sense introducing more pesticides or herbicides into your landscape (and neighborhood and drains and to the Puget Sound) if your trees really don’t need it. Just-in-case spraying is not like a human taking Airborne before taking a flight.

Finally, ask your applicator when you are supposed to spray for the problem you have. If the bug is dormant or at a stage in its lifecycle that won’t be affected by spray there is, again, no sense in spraying.

So that’s a lot of “don’ts” but do call a CPH, certified Arborist or someone identify if your other trees have a problem or not. Be an informed and savvy client who doesn’t knee-jerk into spending money on a spray that might not work. And finally, don’t worry! If your tree does succumb, you have other hemlock species options that you could put in its place if you just need that look in your garden. Good luck! Katy

(As Katy notes in her message above, for-fee pesticide applications and pesticide recommendations made in the state of Washington may only be made by licensed, registered pesticide applicators with active licenses. Yes, a homeowner can go buy anything off the shelf and do basically whatever s/he wants with it, but professionals can’t provide any such service legally without a license. Sure, we may know better even without a license, but we’re more regulated than homeowners who may try to apply a fungicide where a pesticide makes more sense or where nothing at all is required. But, that’s a post for another day. -Robin)

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