Archive for the ‘arboriculture’ Category

Topics in Arboriculture and Relating to Wayne and Garth

Monday, December 7th, 2009

Curious about trees and want to learn a bit more? Several years ago I signed up for Topics in Arboriculture at Lake Washington Technical College and have never regretted it. I haven’t taken the ISA exams — mostly because I am so humbled by the mighty tree that I feel much like Garth when confronted with something as magnificent as a great, powerful, awe-inspiring, beautiful and perhaps even ailing tree. Sure, I enjoy trees and hope to understand them (and maybe I even worship them a bit), so at least for now, I continue to be an life-long student of arboriculture rather than a certified arborist.

Not Worthy

The knowledge I gained in this course and the relationships I built while taking it continue to be priceless. When I find myself out of my league when faced with a particular tree issue, this course gave me the skills and knowledge to first recognize my limits and second reach out to a greater network of professionals who specialize in trees.

Whether you’re sitting for the ISA exams or just want to learn more about trees and modern methodologies for working with them, this course is one not to miss!

When: Winter Quarter 2010, Tuesdays from 2-5pm beginning January 4, 2010

Where: Lake Washington Technical College, 11605-132nd Avenue, NE, Kirkland, WA 98034 425.739.8279

Course Title: Topics in Arboriculture, HORT 138 (3 credits)

Course Description: In class the students will gain an understanding of topics and issues essential to working with trees in urban landscapes. Some topics covered include tree biology, nutrition, pruning, plant health care, and soils. The ISA Arborists Certification Study Guide will be the text. This class would be helpful for anyone taking the ISA exams. ISA continuing education credits available & CPH credit available.

Registration information here

Other LWTC Horticulture Winter Courses here

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Arborist Answers Reader Question About Dying Trees, Lawn and Concrete

Thursday, May 28th, 2009

Laura from Bartlett, Il writes in:

“We have huge evergreens around our house. Recently they have started to brown and look like they are dying. We had this problem at our other house too. We called Chemlawn out and he said it was from our concrete. We had to go out and buy….This is where I forgot. If it was an acid to put in the dirt or an akaline. It was a powder mixed in the soil. It helped and revived our shrub. I think this is what we need again but, I can’t remember what it was we bought. Can you help?”

Bainbridge, WA arborist, Katy Krokower, has the following insights on this question:

Hi Laura,

I’d like to start the answer to your question by gently scolding you for calling a lawn company to address your tree issues. I will step down from the soap box to say that this is not an uncommon reaction, especially when large beloved trees start declining.  People want an answer quickly and often they already have a lawn or landscape care service to ply with their concerns.

An arborist, particularly those who are ISA certified, can better help diagnose tree problems. Unlike most lawn care companies who focus solely on lawn issues (ie, they look down, not up) an arborist not only evaluates a tree from tip to roots but will question you about the trees history, ask about any activity in the surrounding area (including lawn care) and be able to give you a health or vigor assessment of what is going on with the tree at the time of their site visit. Their opinion will be based on more round information than an opinion based solely on one facet of an area affecting your tree.

That said, sometimes the conclusion is that you do have a soil issues that once remedied may help improve the vigor of your trees. If that is the case, a soil test (of which there are a variety of types) can help you determine what nutrients or diseases are present in your soil. However, I’ll say it again: if you don’t start by taking into account the whole picture of how the tree is, improving your soil may not take care of your tree issues.

To find out if there is a qualified certified arborist in your area check the ISA directory . Also, check your yellow pages to see if anyone has a ISA logo. I encourage you to treat your trees like valuable assets and don’t compromise when looking for experienced mature tree care.

Best of luck, Katy

Need help from a Seattle/Bainbridge arborist? Contact Katy here.

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Arborist and Garden Coach Discuss Gardening Around Established Trees

Saturday, April 25th, 2009

Barbara from Lancaster, CA writes:

“We just purchased a house with a beautiful, very old birch (weeping) tree in the front yard. A large area around the tree is raised due to roots and many years of growing. We\’d like to keep the tree as it is huge. It was probably planted when the house was built. That was 1965. We need to roto-till the entire yard to put down a new lawn. What should we do about the raised tree area? We could put a large, very large circular brick wall around it but then could we put dirt over the roots near the surface to plant some small shrubs, flowers? What to do, what to do?”

Hi Barbara, Katy here,

How great is is that you have purchased a piece of history and are interested in preserving it!?!

I’m not sure why you are rototilling to make a new lawn- perhaps drainage problems you’re trying to remedy? In any event, keep that rototiller out of the “drip line” of the tree. The drip line is area directly located under the outer circumference of the tree branches. This is where the tiny rootlets are located that take up water and nutrients for the tree. A tree can be significantly and sometimes unpredictably damaged once these roots have been disturbed. Furthermore, knowing how a specific roots connect to the upper parts of a tree is little understood – you might end up damaging an area connected to a branch that you’d really like to save.

Building a retaining wall to with the intention to add a bunch of new soil is also isn’t great for a tree. However, covering the surface roots with 2″ to 4″ of compost or mulch will help keep roots cooler and reduce the effect of soil compaction. Too much more soil than that can actually cause the roots to smother. Your surface roots might also be pointing to your type of soil – clayey? Not well drained? The tree might just be trying to get it’s light and air from a easier place than in heavy compacted or dense dirt.

People do install plants under trees and getting the right plant for the right place will help them succeed. But often one or the other wins, no matter how much love is given. If you do plant it is most important to take care not to water the tree trunk as you’re watering the new plants. A constantly wet trunk can becomes a thriving fungus community fast.

Good luck!

_______

Barbara, thanks for writing in. Robin here. I just had to chime in on this as well. So often clients believe rototilling is the answer to renovating a lawn space, when often it isn’t necessary. You may just need to have it thatched, aerated, limed, composted, seeded and then properly mowed and watered. Tearing all of it out and starting over doesn’t always solve on-going lawn issues. But, as Katy hinted at, we aren’t quite sure why you’re planning to till, so it’s difficult for us to know for certain. If you do till in that area and you hit some bigger roots that have expanded out of the “zone” Katy indicated, be sure to stop the tiller and use a sterile saw to cut the root clean on the side that connects it to the tree. This will help the tree help itself in the long run. If you leave the roots torn up, it may be harder for the tree to recover.

Katy also hinted at knowing your soil. I highly recommend you order a soil test to know what kind of soil you’re working with, what pH you have and what its nutrient situation is. This will help you choose the right course of action for preparing your soil to keep both your lawn and your trees (and anything else) happy. University of Massachusetts at Amherst has a soil testing lab that is relatively inexpensive and very comprehensive. You’ll find details here.

Thanks for writing in and have fun in the garden.

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Arborist Katy on Wooly Adelgid Management in Mountain Hemlocks

Friday, April 10th, 2009

Tracy from Federal Way, WA writes:

“Our Mountain Hemlock has an Adelgid infestation. It is all over the middle tree but will probably spread to the others.

What do you suggest for treatment?

I have Neem oil and “Safer” insect killing soap. I also have some Fertilome products – Fungicide ornamental and evergreen spray though I don’t like what the warnings are on the label.

I am also thinking I should treat the other like trees in the back just in case.”

Katy took this question on and answers:

Interesting.

When I first moved to Seattle in 1997 I worked at the Seattle Arboretum,  and there was an employee who was always on about monitoring the Wooly adelgid and who was convinced it was bringing down the native Hemlock  (Tsuga heterophylla) population. Since that time I actually haven’t seen much of it around Bainbridge Island or Seattle.

I called Randall Hitchen, curator at the Arboretum to discuss this case. He was surprised to hear of the adelgid hitting the Mountain Hemlock enough that it was making a problem and so was I. Although we may have lost a bit of the touch for smaller urban gardens where you might only have that one tree, stare at it all the time and it actually makes a significant difference to the landscape whether it thrives or not (he works in a 214 acre garden, and I live on an acre of wooded land) both he and I agreed that adelgids usually don’t usually bring down this kind of Hemlock.

It led us muse about a couple things: How old are the trees? Is it causing severe defoliation or foliar problems or are they at an acceptable level for the client? Is there anything else stressing the trees out to make them more susceptible to an adelgid attack? Is the client ok with spraying? It might be that they actually need a one-time “good hygiene” spray. I was also interested to hear that other kinds of Hemlock (some other cultivars and ornamental type) really don’t tend to succumb to the adelgid.

Both he and I agreed that we wouldn’t go so far as recommending any kind of spray product. Not only do products often change names, we aren’t licensed applicators. Also one shouldn’t ever treat other nearby trees “just in case”. Not only is random spraying a waste of money, there is no sense introducing more pesticides or herbicides into your landscape (and neighborhood and drains and to the Puget Sound) if your trees really don’t need it. Just-in-case spraying is not like a human taking Airborne before taking a flight.

Finally, ask your applicator when you are supposed to spray for the problem you have. If the bug is dormant or at a stage in its lifecycle that won’t be affected by spray there is, again, no sense in spraying.

So that’s a lot of “don’ts” but do call a CPH, certified Arborist or someone identify if your other trees have a problem or not. Be an informed and savvy client who doesn’t knee-jerk into spending money on a spray that might not work. And finally, don’t worry! If your tree does succumb, you have other hemlock species options that you could put in its place if you just need that look in your garden. Good luck! Katy

(As Katy notes in her message above, for-fee pesticide applications and pesticide recommendations made in the state of Washington may only be made by licensed, registered pesticide applicators with active licenses. Yes, a homeowner can go buy anything off the shelf and do basically whatever s/he wants with it, but professionals can’t provide any such service legally without a license. Sure, we may know better even without a license, but we’re more regulated than homeowners who may try to apply a fungicide where a pesticide makes more sense or where nothing at all is required. But, that’s a post for another day. -Robin)

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Garden Coach on Tricks to Make Maple Seed Messes Easier to Manage

Wednesday, April 8th, 2009

Mark M. of Richmond, VA writes:

“My Maple tree will soon shower me in seeds. The little helicopters get into everything. The tree is beautiful the rest of the year. We also have a pool and I cut roots every year that get close. I hear the tree can be sprayed but cannot find anyone that will. Is there huge ground covers to catch?? “

Mark, thanks for writing in. It sounds like you have a love-hate relationship with your maple tree. Hopefully, there are some things you can do to make it 100% love!

First, I wonder if this is an example of wrong plant in the wrong place. Is the tree of a size/age that you could move it to a location where you don’t feel the need to cut its roots annually? If not, I suggest you contact an ISA certified arborist to be sure you are managing the root systems properly. Frequent and improper root pruning can create hazard situations. It is important to have your tree’s top and bottom growth and care evaluated.

Second, I’m not sure why you want to spray the tree. So, I’m not sure how to address this question. Talking to an arborist is going to help you determine if the tree has any issues that indicate a need to treat the tree with anything.

Third, and finally, one trick that might help with the helicopters is to drape an old sheet (or sheets) under the tree during the seeding time. I prefer sheets to a tarp because a sheet will allow moisture and possibly some light to make to the earth below. Weight down the sheet(s) so they don’t blow away. If placed in the zone where most of the helicopters fly, it may make clean up easier in the end. Don’t leave the sheet down for a long time though or the plants below it may not thrive.

I hope this helps, and best of luck with all the buzzing helicopters!

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Arborist Katy Writes About How to Properly Care for Balled and Burlapped Trees

Wednesday, March 25th, 2009
Burlap Removed & Roots Cleaned for Planting

Burlap Removed & Roots Cleaned for Planting

This weekend, my husband and I planted our 40th tree! Some have been bare root, a few in nice potted soil and some salvaged but most of them have come “balled and burlapped”. You too may have invested in some trees but what to do about the roots wrapped up like a present?

Regular readers of this blog will most likely be familiar with the concept that you want to remove most of that wire, fabric and twine before planting. In my book, removal of as much non-plant material surrounding the root ball is preferable. Plus, after all that disturbance I like to give the leftover roots a clean cut with sharp hand pruners to avoid unhealthy roots trying to heal while also trying to establish.

The obvious reason for taking all this stuff off is so roots won’t have any barriers to growing and establishing at the soil level they are planted. However, what you often don’t read about is the fact that roots growing around and around in hard clay or with the barrier of twine or burlap will start to become good candidates for becoming girdling roots. Worse, they will try to find any easy access to the nicer soil they’ve been planted in and grow up and over the original ball. Both of these situations will create less than ideal root situations.

Roots trying to escape their wire and burlap cages by growing up and over the top of the ball will often result in exposed surface roots growing above the level of the base of the trunk flare. Roots rising above this level can often be nicked by lawn trimmers or mowers, tripped over by people and pets and can’t be covered with mulch without covering the rest of the root zone too deeply.

This Trunk even Looks Like it Wore a Girdle!

This Trunk even Looks Like it Wore a Girdle!

Girdling roots are roots that have grown in a manner with the potential strangle tree (or shrub) parts in one way or another. When roots aren’t flared out or remain balled and burlaped they will actually continue to grow around in a circle for a very long time. As the roots enlarge and happen to be near to a trunk or other root they have the ability to strangle and impede the flow of nutrients. A even worse situation is a completely girdled trunk (see photo). As one who performs tree risk assessment, seeing this kind of abuse raises all kinds of red flags for the hazard this tree presents now and into the future, not insubstantial in this case considering the trees’ beachside location and purpose of buffering strong southerly winds. While this specimen seemed to be growing ok after the (extremely overkill) rope had been removed the trunk will always have this defect and remain the weakest part of the trunk, no matter how old it gets.

Give your new investment a fighting chance and unwrap those roots carefully and completely. Trust me, you’ll be glad you did.

Still confused? Get in touch to schedule a garden coaching session. We can help you unwrap your new tree and plant it to thrive!

Related Reading:

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Knowing an Insect’s Life Cycle to Develop an IPM Strategy

Friday, March 20th, 2009

Odette from Baltimore, MD writes in:

“I have a boxelder bug infestation. I removed the box elder tree in the back last fall, hoping they would go away, however, I as welcomed to my garden today with swarms of them again. for the past 2 seasons I have been fighting these bugs with sprays, which work, but they keep coming back because I may not have gotten them all. Now that I have removed the tree, will they go away? (I moved to this house 2 years ago – the previous owner complained about them but did not know that they came from the tree. can you help me here? what else can I do? Any help is appreciated. “

Odette this is an interesting discussion item. Without a quite a bit more detail, I don’t know how helpful I can be, but here are some items to get you started.

First, I don’t know what insects you’re dealing with. It is important to fully identify the pest in order to understand how its life cycle happens and what plants it uses for these cycles. Once you identify your pest fully, you will be better armed to create an integrated pest management program (IPM) for managing the issue. And, it’s critical to be sure the insect you consider a pest isn’t actually a beneficial!

It may be that you noticed the insect in the Box Elder, but it could be that it only spends part of its lifecycle there. It may spend, say, a nymph stage on another plant in your garden or in the soil, for instance. Or, it may only live in the Box Elder. Or, it may have only spent its adult phase in the Box Elder because the Elder was under stress (pests like to go for the most stressed plant in the garden first in many cases). Or, it may need the Elder for part of its life. So, I suggest you fully identify the pest (if you haven’t already) and work with an arborists or local horticulturist to understand its lifecycle requirements. That might help you know if it will come back.

Since you do mention that you’ve been spraying, I’m going to assume you already know exactly what pest you have and that it is a pest. Knowing which pest you have is critical to knowing what course of pest management to take. If you don’t  know the pest, your sprays may have been contributing to the problem. Sometimes pesticides are applied by the unknowing only to end up killing the beneficials that prey upon our pests. Once the beneficials are removed, the pests have that much more success overtaking our gardens.

One thing you don’t mention is any damage the pests did to the plant. Did they actually do anything to the tree or garden? Or did they just seem annoying in big buzzing swarms? Could it be that these were actually beneficial insects that might have been “swarming the tree” to attack another pest that you didn’t see? It’s a question to consider…

So, what to do?

Try to identify the insect, understand its lifecycle and preferred habitats during the life cycles. If you’re unable to do this yourself, try working with your local Master Gardener Extension office to start.

Thanks for writing in and keep having fun in the garden!

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Garden Coach Discusses Options for Trees Damaged in Ice Storms

Tuesday, March 17th, 2009

Pam L. from Danville, KY writes:

“1. My magnolia tree suffered damage during the recent ice storms. Now I notice a fungal type looking stuff on the trunk. It is grey and has “lichens”. What is this? How do we treat it? If you can’t identify what I’m describing, where can I go to get help – either on the internet or locally? My local extension office isn’t much help.

2. My cherry laurel, which was over the roof line before the ice storm, had breakage of the main trunk – it broke off at about 8 feet. It has significant damage in the interior part of the plant – broken limbs. It is now much wider than it is tall and sparse looking in the center . What should we do? When is the time to do it? “

Pam, thanks for your questions. I lived through many rough ice storms as a kid growing up in Virginia. Boy do trees take a beating from them. Given the extent of your tree questions, you may be best served by hiring a local, certified arborist to evaluate your trees and help you develop a plan for managing them.

The International Society of Arboriculture (ISA)’s tool for finding an arborist is available here.

And, if you are certain that the Magnolia only has lichens growing on it, don’t worry. They aren’t known to damage trees. However, if there is other fungal growth, there may be a bigger problem lurking. A certified arborist will be able to evaluate the situation in person.

Not sure whether you need a consulting arborist or a commercial arborist? Read Certified Arborist and Guest Blogger Katy’s article on the subject here.

Thanks again for writing in. Keep having fun in the garden!

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Garden Coach Discusses Treating Cherry Leaf Spot

Tuesday, March 10th, 2009

Patrick M. of  Springboro, OH writes,

“I have a Montgomery cherry tree that became infected with ‘cherry leaf spot’ and lost most of it’s leaves last summer. How can I treat this and what product do you recommend? “

Patrick, thanks for writing in. I’ve discussed this with a few gardenhelp contributors, and we all agreed that this isn’t something we can answer in a simple Q&A. Here are a few ways you might be able to deal with the issue, however:

I hope these resources prove fruitful and you are able to remedy your tree’s problems.

Thanks for writing in and keep having fun in the garden!

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Seattle Street Tree Ordinance Update

Saturday, February 28th, 2009

Late last year, I shared with garden help readers that the Seattle Street Tree Ordinance was up for review. Recently, I received the an update from Seattle City Councilperson Jean Godden (mailto: Jean.Godden@seattle.gov). Here’s what Jean had to say:

“…I am pleased to report that the council voted 8-1 in favor of the Interim Tree Protections Proposal. I was happy to support this proposal and will work hard to see that its intended goal, to preserve and enhance the city’s tree canopy, is met.

As you may know, this bill limits tree removal to no more than three trees of 6 inches or greater in diameter per lot in any one year period on single-family zoned lots that are at least 5,000 square feet, or on any sized lot in a lowrise, midrise or commercial zone. It also prohibits the removal of exceptional trees. Routine pruning of trees that are hazardous or whose removal is required for construction of anew structure under an approved building or grading permit are exempt from the new limits.

The new law also expands the definition of “exceptional tree” to include the phrase “group of trees”; establishes specific rules and regulations concerning how violations of the tree ordinance will be handled; establishes a formalized process for review and potential appeal of any violation, and increases the minimum penalty for violations from $500 to $5,000….My Regards, Jean…”
Additional Reading:

Further information on street tree permitting

Street Tree Planting Procedure Information

Why the Changes were Proposed

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