Garden Blogger Bloom Day – May 2012

May 15th, 2012
Hardy Fuchsia under Japanese Laceleaf Maple

Hardy Fuchsia under Japanese Laceleaf Maple

Finding blooms in May isn’t hard, especially this year. We’ve had lots of warm, sunny days interspersed with rain. The plants are loving it and really showing their stuff.

This makes the bees really happy too. Our bumblers are the size of hummingbirds this spring. And, Ballard Bee Company has installed two new honeybee hives in the garden, so everything’s all a-buzz. May has been light on rain and heavy on warm, sunny days so the blooms are popping early & lasting longer than they often do in our usual, rainy, cool Seattle springs. We’ll take it!

Enkianthus in Pink

Enkianthus in Pink

Jack Frost Brunnera in Dappled Shade

Jack Frost Brunnera in Dappled Shade

Huge Bumblebee harvesting from Geranium

Huge Bumblebee harvesting from Geranium

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How to Prepare Containers for Planting

May 9th, 2012

Properly readying containers for plants that will thrive takes a little more work than just dumping in potting soil and plugging in the plants.

Water the Soil & Let Drain Before Planting in Containers

Water the Soil & Let Drain Before Planting in Containers

Begin by filling your pots with a quality potting soil mixture.

Do not put rocks, Styrofoam or other materials in the bottom of the container to “improve drainage”. Doing this will do this just the opposite.

Do not fill the container with soil shoveled out of the garden beds. More likely than not, this material will be too dense for container growing.

Once the containers are filled with soil, water them thoroughly. Use a slow, steady stream of water. Depending on how dry the potting soil is, you may need to water a few times to completely wet the potting soil. Using slightly warmer water will often saturate the soil more rapidly than very cold water. (I often run my hose into the a sunny spot. Run it briefly to fill the hose and then let that water in the hose sit in the sun while I fill the pots with soil. That way the first water is warm. Or, I fill my watering cans from my rain barrels and set them in the greenhouse to warm up a bit while I fill the pots with soil.)

Do not lightly wet the soil. This won’t get your soil moist enough deeper into the pot where the roots will grow.

Do not squirt a harsh stream of water into the pot. This will just make a big mess and not saturate the soil.

Large Containers May Need to Be Filled in Place

Large Containers May Need to Be Filled in Place

Once the soil is completely saturated, allow the containers to rest and drain so that the mixture isn’t gloppy. The goal is to create a moist, well-drained environment in which to plant.

To reduce waste, I fill my smaller pots with soil on our tiny lawn and then wet them there. This way the run-off from the pots also waters the grass, plus extra nutrients that run out from the potting soil head into the lawn’s soil. (With very large, heavy containers, this method isn’t always practical.)

Once your pots are filled with moist but drained potting soil, you’re ready to begin filling them with your plants. If your potting soil isn’t amended with a fertilizer already, consider adding a bit of non-synthetic fertilizer or vermicompost right after planting. And always be sure to water the containers right after you have filled them with plants. This helps their roots make critical contact with the soil and begin their new life in this new, hospitable home. (I usually move the containers to their final destination before I do this final watering. This way, I’m not slogging dripping pots all over the garden.)

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Pea Weevils – The Ugly Truth

April 25th, 2012
Pea Weevil Damage on Snow Peas

Pea Weevil Damage on Snow Peas

I’m reminded once again that even if you practice crop rotation, there’s no guarantee a pest won’t find its way into your garden.

Recently, I began noticing notching on the leaves of some of my peas. At first, I chalked this damage up to birds that like to sit on pea trellises and peck at the edges of pea leaves doing quite a bit of damage. But then I realized the damage was far too uniform to be the result of random bird pecking. And, I began to notice similar notching on the edges of fava beans growing in another bed that birds couldn’t access.

So, I knew it was time to look a the problem a little more closely.

I wasn’t able to find any pests around the peas, so I took my investigation to the favas. Inside the favas, along the stems, I observed tiny ants. They weren’t farming aphids, which they’re known to do on aphid-attracting favas. But, they weren’t cutting leaf edges either. Instead, they were sipping nectar, which the fava excretes from a spot near the base of each leaf. (More on that available here.)

So, the mystery of the notched leaves continued. I did some reading on the internet, which left me confused. Was the damage due to bean weevils or pea weevils? Both are discussed in detail all over the web, but the names are often used interchangably, leaving me with even more questions. (Hopefully, this post will help folks ID pea weevil more easily than I was able.)

Sharon Collman Teaching

Sharon Collman in the Field Teaching a Bugs & Blights Class

So, I took those questions to WSU Entomologist Sharon Collman who teaches an on-going extension course in pests and disease called ‘Bugs & Blights‘. After exchanging just a few emails with Sharon, we had the mystery solved and an IPM (Integrated Pest Management) plan in place. When I asked Sharon if I could share this information with gardenhelp.org readers, her response was fantastic: “My goal is to teach people and the more people that pass on information the more people learn.” That’s a statement after my own heart. So here’s how we drilled down on the problem together: Read the rest of this entry »

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Join the Urban Forestry Photography Challenge

April 24th, 2012
Brilliant, Fragrant Cercidiphyllum japonicum in Fall

Brilliant, Fragrant Cercidiphyllum japonicum in Fall

The U.S. Forest Service is challenging U.S. urban citizens to photograph our neighborhood forests, which contribute to the “more than 100 million acres of urban and community forests” that are, in their words, “the hardest working trees in America.”

Whether we snap a picture of trees lining our streets, capture a stately specimen in our gardens or feature bud break in a nearby park, we can join others in illustrating the beauty of forests of the United States. Plus, we can enter up to two photographs for a chance to win some pretty cool gear from the National Forest Foundation.

Get the contest details, follow the action and enter your photos here.

(Thanks to our contributing arborist Katy Bigelow of Bainbridge Island for bringing this event to our attention!)

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Plant Profile – Ribes sanguineum

April 20th, 2012
Ribes Mary's Peak

Ribes sanguineum 'Mary's Peak' combined with burgundy Japanese Maple & Hardy Geranium

One of my favorite Pacific Northwest native plants has to be Ribes sanguineum. In mid-April they’re in full glory, so now’s the time to sing their praises!

This medium size shrub reaches about ten feet tall at maturity. And although it doesn’t get large, it also doesn’t take it long to grow to size in the garden. (Hint: that means you can buy a small one and only have a couple of years to wait until it gets big.)

Ribes flowers open in early spring and last for several weeks. Should a late spring snow storm hit, the flowers hold up well and are actually quite lovely when dripping with water or snow. Their clusters of tiny, fuchsia-shaped flowers range in color from white to pale pink to deep fuchsia to newer varieties sporting peachy-orange-yellow inflorescences. And those flowers are a hummingbird magnet. Later in summer, the ripe berries are edible, but they aren’t very tasty, so think of them as bird food too.

Ribes sanguineum is drought-resistant once established, but it also enjoys a wetter location. As a forest understory shrub, they prefer a dappled shade location, but they will perform in sunnier spots with a bit of summer irrigation. If their foliage doesn’t succumb to rust or sunburn, they can put on a yellow-orange-rusty fall foliage show before the leaves fall to the ground leaving reddish bark for winter interest.

Maintenance on this shrub is fairly simple. Less is more. Prune out dead, crossing, rubbing or broken branches. Rake up a few fall leaves. Aphids will make a home in mid-summer Ribes foliage, but the damage tends to minimal. Plus, predatory yellow jackets and hornets will troll the plant to harvest those pests for food. And that’s about it. Give it room to grow to size, and it’s fairly maintenance free.

Do note that this plant has one potential big negative. It can host White Pine Blister Rust fungi, helping complete its life cycle. In some areas, this can be a big concern, so check before you plant. I checked in with consulting arborist and occasional guest blogger Katy Bigelow to ask about this problem in the greater Seattle area. Her response: “I love Ribes! I haven’t seen that much of White Pine Blister Rust around here, but I know it’s out there.” She also reminded me that even if you don’t have a problem with this disease cycle, the Ribes only has to be within about 1000′ feet of a white pine for the fungus to pass between them. So even if you have a Pine and no Ribes (or visa versa), if your neighbor has the other, the infections still can happen.

Ribes King Edward VII

Ribes sanguineum 'King Edward VII'

Not sure which Ribes sanguineum is right for your garden? Although the species name ’sanguineum’ hints that this plant may bloom a sanguine or bloody red, truly the name’s root more likely hints at how cheerful we’re likely to become at the sight of this beauty in spring. In other words, don’t expect this plant to flower a deep red color.

The true native, Ribes sanguineum, puts on pale pink flowers. Want a deeper pink? Try Ribes sanguineum ‘King Edward VII’ (shown at left). Don’t like pink? Perhaps the clusters of white flowers dripping from Ribes ‘White Icicle’ will brighten up a dark spot in your garden.

Or, join me in coveting the newest Ribes sanguineum to hit the market: Ribes ‘Mary’s Peak’.

Mary’s Peak (shown at top) has blooms that appear pinkish, but offer undertones of yellows and oranges that pair beautifully with other spring native bloomers like yellow-flowering Mahonia, which comes in a range of sizes. Choose a low-growing Mahonia as understory to Ribes or a taller cultivar like ‘Charity’ as an evergreen backdrop. Together these native plants will have your garden full of hungry hummingbirds all spring long.

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